Description

Dive into the collective memory of the people of the souk and the artists of Jamaa el Fna

Starting Location

Horse Coach Street by Place Jemaa el Fnaa (Rue el Mouhadine across from Mosquee al Koutoubia near Club Med), The Medina

Duration

1 hour 10 minutes

Map Image

Description

Dive into the collective memory of the thousand years old square, Place Jemaa el Fnaa, and its surrounding souks. Beyond the iconic postcard imagery often associated with the Medina, this walk offers a glimpse into the lives of the people working there. Their stories show how familial, oral transmission has preserved traditional crafts and arts here for centuries.

You’ll meet Hicham, a snake charmer and Simohammed, a monkey trainer. You will learn the rules for haggling, and discover white magic love cures with Zakaria, while soundscapes of the souk’s past and present explore the sonic origins of today's traditions. This walk will equip you to with the secrets to engage in the essence of Jemaa el Fnaa—the halqa—the circular gathering around artists that has animated the square for centuries...

Artist Anna Raimondo’s inclusive creative process involved many contributors working together, sharing their stories to create a collective mosaic of memories and perspectives. In addition to the interviews presented in this piece, Anna has merged multiple people of the Medina into Rokia, the semi-fictional narrator who guides listeners to a deeper understanding of the area.

Tips & Hours

• This Detour is best between 1pm - 5:30pm when the markets are in full swing. We don't recommend this Detour on Fridays or during Ramadan because most of the stops are closed.
• You'll need a good internet connection for downloading. Try “le Jardin” in the Medina, or “Café du Livre” in Gueliz.
• Before you get there, change at least 100 dhr in coins or small bills for the snake charmer, performing monkeys, and Moroccan treats.
• If shop-keepers talk to you while you are listening, just point to your earphones with a big smile or press pause and explain.

Credits

Producer: Anna Raimondo is a radio producer and sound artist based in Brussels and working internationally. www.annaraimondo.com

Narrator: Rokia El Baz

Sound mix: Julian Kwasneski

Studio recording of Rokia’s voice: Charles Collin

Logistics: Adil El Filali

Editor: Aaron With

Music: Improvisations by the group "Gnawa of the Casbha", “Ingouba Finkouma" by The Servants of the Invisible, copyright KamarMusic USA with the friendly authorisation of Maalem Abbès Larfaoui Baska and the Sons of the Moon Ensemble KamarStudios Morocco, “Apple Concentrate" by Omar Rafaat, Additional introductory percussion by Samuel Hirsch, Various percussion samples by Linda Brouchard, arranged by Anna Raimondo

Interviewees in order of appearance: Hicham Chrif Al Isaoui, snake charmer, Mohammed Baabout , monkey trainer, Hakim, ceramics seller, Hosni, rug seller, Mohammed Sbai, spice seller, Zakaria Bazzari, the white magic practitioner, Meriem Said, singer All of the interviews are real, but the voices of Mohammed and Meriem are translations performed by actors. Mohammed, the spice seller, was interpreted by Youssef Meriem, the halqa singer, was interpreted by Zineb Chbibi Cadoux

Starting Locations of All Detours

View Starting Locations Map