Description

Valid, controversial, or silly, Montmartre’s strict laws were made to be broken.

Starting Location

27 Rue des Saules

Lapin Agile Cabaret, 22 rue des Saules (nearest Metro station Lamarck Caulaincourt) Montmartre

Duration

60 minutes

Map Image

Description

Forget about the romantic past of Montmartre. On this walk, you will explore the rebellious and contemporary side of the hill. Radio producer Jeanne Robet will lead you through a world of the fringe economy. Our journey will make you think about the way we use public space, as you witness how Paris’s strict laws, ranging from comical bureaucratic regulations to controversial laws to meaningful restrictions on darker vices, play out in the streets. You’ll meditate on how we choose what we show and what we hide in public, what we condone, and what we punish.

You will first climb the hill of Montmartre among the tourists, and then walk down to La Goutte d'Or district with a large population of African immigrants. You will meet a grumpy painter, Barry Black the Goulou-Goulou, the Cowboy and his illegal flyers, a pickpocket and other lawbreakers and observers, including the police commander of the whole district. You will search for Eiffel Tower miniatures and stocks of contraband cigarettes, salute a crew of fresh fowl, and remember how beautiful an Imam can sound. Hopefully after this walk, you will feel just as comfortable downhill in the vibrant chaos of illicit activities, as uphill in the polished postcard.

Tips & Hours

• Begin this Detour between 10am - 6pm during summer and between 11am - 4pm in the winter. Avoid Mondays and rainy days and don't take the tour at night. Weekends are very crowded, but good also days to experience this Detour.
• This Detour is recommended for ages 16 and up.
• Be aware of pickpockets and keep your phone in a safe place.
• This is an energetic walk. There is one hill to climb and a long flight of stairs.

Credits

Producer and Narrator: Jeanne Robet is a radio producer and sound artist based in Paris (www.jeannerobet.com)

Music: All the music is composed by Samuel Hirsch.

Editor: Aaron With

Interviewees: Paul, the painter. Barry, the goulou-goulou. Abdu, the hashish dealer. Nelson the police commander. Lansana the cowboy, Malick the observer of every mother f* thing, Matt the addict pickpocket, Jacky the neighbor, Karim the specialist, Sofia the writer, Minou and Badri, the cigarette sellers. (Listed in order of appearance).

Actors: All the interviews are based on authentic interviews of real people. Some translated interviews needed to be acted in English. Paul is played by Mohammed Rouahbi. Nelson is played by Olivier Claverie. Lansana is played by Adama Diop.

Thanks

Many thanks to the long list of friends and people who helped me during this production. Special thanks to the chicken shop.

Starting Locations of All Detours

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