Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today, we’re venturing just outside of Glasgow to explore Crookston Castle, a place steeped in romance, rebellion, and royal intrigue. Situated atop a gentle hill overlooking the scenic Levern Water, Crookston Castle is an extraordinary blend of natural beauty and historic architecture. This medieval stronghold, though often overshadowed by more famous sites, holds a unique place in Scotland’s past, particularly in relation to Mary, Queen of Scots.
Now, Mary, Queen of Scots, needs little introduction. Her life story—filled with joy, betrayal, and tragedy—has captivated generations. One of the lesser-known, yet poignant, chapters in her life is her connection to Crookston Castle. It’s said that she and Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley, spent their honeymoon within these ancient walls. That moment of fleeting happiness must have seemed far removed from the stormy future that awaited them both, a future clouded by political betrayal, jealousy, and violence.
But before we dive into that, let’s take a step back and explore the origins of Crookston Castle. Built around 1400 by the Stewarts of Darnley, the stone structure replaced an earlier timber and earth fortification. This earlier fort, dating back to the 12th century, was established by Sir Robert de Croc, a Norman noble whose name still echoes in the village of Crookston. The Stewarts, a family whose legacy would be forever entwined with Scotland’s royal history, transformed the site into a formidable stone fortress designed to withstand both time and attack.
Crookston Castle’s position was carefully chosen—it stands on a natural hill, surrounded by a defensive ring ditch that dates back to Sir Robert de Croc’s time. From this vantage point, the castle commands breathtaking views of the Renfrewshire countryside to the south, while to the north, the Levern Water winds its way toward the White Cart Water. Its strategic location made Crookston a key stronghold in the Stewart family’s network of defenses, even though it was never the largest of castles.
In 1489, Crookston was the site of a dramatic episode during one of Scotland’s many civil wars. The Stewart Earl of Lennox, a staunch supporter of a rebellion against King James IV, found himself besieged at Crookston. The king, determined to crush the uprising, brought the legendary cannon Mons Meg from Edinburgh to bombard the castle. The siege was short-lived, and the western towers were virtually destroyed, never to be rebuilt. Even after this, the castle remained a symbol of power and loyalty for the Stewart family.
It was within these stone walls, likely battered by Mons Meg’s fury, that Lord Darnley would later court and marry Mary, Queen of Scots. Darnley, a handsome and ambitious nobleman, had a claim to the English throne, making their union not just a romantic match but a political one. According to tradition, the couple may have been betrothed under a yew tree on the castle grounds, a tree that became a symbol of their union. Though felled in 1816, this ancient yew’s legacy still lingers in local folklore.
For Mary and Darnley, Crookston Castle was a place of happiness, if only for a brief moment. Their honeymoon here is often recalled as one of the few truly joyful times in their tumultuous marriage. Those days must have been filled with hope and affection, a sharp contrast to the violence and betrayal that would later come to define their relationship. Just imagine—Mary, the young queen, full of beauty and grace, walking the halls of Crookston, unaware of the tragedy that would soon engulf her life.
Darnley, too, changed dramatically after their time at Crookston. What began as youthful passion soon deteriorated into jealousy and paranoia. Darnley’s involvement in the brutal murder of Mary’s trusted secretary, David Rizzio, marked the beginning of the end for their marriage. Within a year, Darnley would be dead—murdered under mysterious circumstances that would forever taint Mary’s reputation and lead to her eventual downfall.
While Crookston Castle never played a central role in Scotland’s grander historical dramas, it is a quiet witness to these personal tragedies. The walls, now largely in ruins, still echo with the whispers of its past inhabitants. The northeast tower, the only one still standing to its original height, offers visitors a view that Mary and Darnley might have once enjoyed. From here, one can see the lush green fields, the winding rivers, and, on a clear day, even the distant slopes of Neilston Pad.
In later years, the castle passed through various hands, including those of the Dukes of Montrose and the Maxwells of Pollok. By the 18th century, Crookston had fallen into disrepair, but its romantic ruins attracted the attention of poets like Robert Burns and William Motherwell, who immortalized it in their verses. The castle’s lonely beauty became a source of inspiration, much as it had once been a place of refuge and celebration.
In 1931, Crookston Castle became the first property acquired by the National Trust for Scotland, marking the beginning of its preservation. Today, it stands as a monument to both Scotland’s medieval past and its royal history. Though its walls may no longer ring with the sounds of courtly music or the bustle of royal visitors, Crookston still offers a tangible connection to the stories of those who once called it home.
So, if you ever find yourself in Glasgow with a bit of time to spare, consider making the short journey to Crookston Castle. Wander its grounds, climb its ancient tower, and take a moment to reflect on the lives of Mary and Darnley—their love, their tragedy, and the fleeting moments of joy they found within these walls.
Thank you for joining me on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." I hope you’ve enjoyed uncovering the story of Crookston Castle with me. Tune in tomorrow as we explore yet another fascinating piece of Scotland’s rich history. Until then, I’m Colin MacDonald, and as always, slán go fóill!
