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Weekend Warrior Gentil Nguyen shares insights including:
How she sent ten V10s in her first two years outside
Challenges (and advantages!) of being 4'11"
Why indoor climbs can be harder than outdoors for short climbers
Climbing 3 days per week and doing very little other training
Why her first season was so magical, and her second season a struggle
Dealing with send pressure
The importance of releasing expectations
Separating self-worth from climbing performance
Flexibility and finger strength tips to "climb taller"
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
- Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
- Petzl: Check out the CONNECT ADJUST at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com. I love this PAS, it's so easy to use.
- Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals atthestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)
02:11 Gentil's Climbing Background and Achievements
02:48 Host's Recent Outdoor Climbing Experience
19:40 Gentil's Climbing Philosophy and Training Routine
27:26 Gentil's Transition to Outdoor Climbing
33:43 Planning Bouldering Trips
34:48 Setting Expectations and Priorities
36:28 Researching and Identifying Boulders
37:18 Inspiration and Community Impact
37:54 Safety Gear Spotlight: Petzl Connect Adjust
39:41 Challenges of Short Climbers
41:58 Mental Journey and Training Blocks
46:43 Balancing Performance and Enjoyment
54:07 Future Goals and Outdoor Climbing
55:52 Indoor Climbing and Personal Growth
56:40 Tips for Short Climbers
01:00:10 Red Rock Bouldering Recommendations
01:04:15 Conclusion and Final Thoughts
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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.
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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
