En episode om terminologi, regler og etikk, for alle og enhver.
Bildet er fra hottuben til Doc, Henrik og Mark, begge to er godt kokt...
“Roger’s Got Wild Eyes,” Derek Hynd’s masterful 1988 SURFER profile on a man known to big-wave heavies at the time as the King of Waimea. Read and be amazed:
https://www.surfer.com/culture/to-hell-and-back-with-roger-erickson
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