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奢侈品是一门很强调阶级、年代和品味的生意,行业的话语权长期把握在欧洲巨头的手上,很少有美国品牌能够打入这个圈子。但过去几年里,有一个名叫The Row的美国新品牌开始受到更多关注——这是一个借助基础款和神秘感,实现出奇制胜的故事。
The Row背后的创始人,是美国知名的童星姐妹花Mary-Kate Olsen和Ashley Olsen。她们并没有按照常规思路,将名流的曝光流量与创业生意紧紧绑定,而是反其道而行之,将私密、舒适和低调作为品牌的核心价值。这几乎等同于放弃大众市场,但大众的好奇会日益累积。
但让The Row真正扶摇直上的,是整个时尚行业共同创造出的静奢风潮流。The Row不断从其他同行身上学习,也吃到了Phoebe Philo离开Céline时的市场红利,最终在Margaux这一个爆款包袋上出圈。至此,它用不到20年的时间,实现了小众品牌的胜利。
| 主播 |
肖文杰、约小亚
| 时间轴 |
00:48 对立统一的新锐奢侈品牌
02:34 童星姐妹的“匿名”创业
07:25 小众和大众市场的双线试水
09:56 “富人的优衣库”
18:28 其他静奢风品牌的印记
21:56 Phoebe Philo开创的市场空间
28:13 Margaux,挑战铂金包的爆款
| 延伸资料 |
第一财经杂志-《The Row:独立奢侈品品牌生存方法论》 (https://www.cbnweek.com/article_detail/24037)
《微小的总和》 (https://book.douban.com/subject/36184508/)
Wall Street Journal-The Surprise Luxury Label (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052702303627504579558221512719340)
i·D-An interview with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen (https://i-d.co/article/mary-kate-and-ashley-olsen-interview/)
Washington Post-How the Olsen twins stole the show on ‘Full House’ (https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/arts-and-entertainment/wp/2015/08/24/how-mary-kate-and-ashley-olsen-stole-the-spotlight-from-full-house-even-during-its-lifetime-movie/)
Dualstar Entertainment (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dualstar)
THE RISE AND FALL OF BARNEYS (https://frontrowedit.co.uk/the-rise-and-fall-of-barneys/)
Vogue-What a no-phone fashion show means in the social media era (https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/fashion/what-a-no-phone-fashion-show-means-in-the-social-media-era)
Vogue-Nadège Vanhée on Her First 10 Years at Hermès: “I Never Look Back” (https://www.vogue.com/article/hermes-nadege-vanhee-fall-2024-chapter-two-interview)
The Business of Fashion-Who Will Dress the Philophiles? (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/who-will-dress-the-philophiles/)
The Business of Fashion-The Row’s Margaux: A Birkin in the Making? (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/the-rows-margaux-a-birkin-in-the-making/)
Wall Street Journal-Trying to Dethrone the Birkin? Make Fewer Bags (https://www.wsj.com/business/retail/trying-to-dethrone-the-birkin-make-fewer-bags-2ddf733d?mod=business_feat2_retail_pos1)
The Business of Fashion-The Row’s $1 Billion Deal, Explained (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/the-rows-1-billion-deal-explained/)
Financial Times-The very stealthy success of The Row (https://www.ft.com/content/37a13d71-f247-47ba-b1b7-907ce825a70f)
| 后期制作 |
秋秋
| 声音设计 |
刘大哭
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