This is our first in person interview with Dougal Paterson - Photographer, film maker and big wave surfer.
We chat about what it takes to be out in big waves, about past stories we have shared together and dying in the ocean. We had started our day with a follow up session, some of which will be posted tomorrow, where we unravel what is happening in Dougal's body and the important conversations and realisations that come in these moments. We get onto the very important topic of concussions, both in any collision sports, but very much big wave surfing, and how some of the new safety equipment solves some big problems, but opens up some new ones.
This morning I watched one of Dougal's movies, Zions Gate. Click onto his website if you would like watch it too, it is really powerful.
