In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury.
Steve Smith's Bio
- Steve Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, who is a board certified specialist in Orthopaedic Physical Therapy, and Strength & Conditioning. He has been climbing since 2006, and has a particular interest in specialized sport training and rehabilitation, using science and evidence-based practice to improve performance and return patients to their highest level of athletic abilities. Steve works in an academic Orthopedic and Sports Medicine setting and, in his free time, acts as a training and injury risk reduction consultant to local competitive and recreational climbers. He currently lives in Huntington, WV with his wife, son and daughter.
Chapters
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00:00 Introduction to Energy System Training
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04:30 Understanding Limited Resources in Training
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10:17 Muscle Contractions and Their Importance
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17:03 Energy Systems Overview
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24:33 Components of Energy System Training
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29:56 Practical Applications of Training
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33:54 Understanding Climbing Intensity and Training
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39:36 Exploring Strength Endurance and Pump Training
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47:29 Assessing and Programming for Climbing Training
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50:48 Needs Analysis in Climbing Training
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01:03:34 Key Takeaways for Effective Climbing Training
Links and Resources for This Episode:
Social Media and Webpage:
Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Injury Rehab Coures
