The sun streams in through the huge windows where I’m seated at The Atlantic on Southbank. Queen of all I survey, and despite fantastic views of the Yarra and Melbourne city, I’m distracted by the array of fish and seafood dishes coming out of Nick Mahlook’s kitchen. Tasmanian oysters with red wine vinaigrette, raw and cured fish of various types and various preparations, split grilled leader prawns, grilled octopus, roasted hiramasa Kingfish with smoked mussels and little pops of saltbush on the side. It’s a feast and I’m keen to ask Nick all about it.