If you have not been to Dessous, you are missing out. I say this with absolute certainty, because I, like you, had absolutely been missing out until I went and spoke to head chef Dan Sawansak and then spent a glorious evening completely in his hands with the Leave it to us menu, my favourite way to eat. If you are amongst the wise people who have eaten at Dessous, then you already know how good it is down there in that intimate low-lit basement vibe that is Dessous. Dan is one of those chefs that ‘fell into it’ and then developed a deep abiding love and curiosity for cooking that you feel when you eat his food. Dan is humble and softly spoken and said things like, cooking is all I can do and that’s not true. He started off as a guitarist in a band and worked in kitchens to pay for that, but he fell in love with it and now that half his house is filled with cook books and his Notes app on his phone is bulging at the seams with ideas, is testament to the fact that Dan absolutely knows what he is doing. I caught glimpses of him at the pass putting up the most exquisite dishes which he told me are a mixture of subversion and memory and just really good flavours, and the serenity and focus he exuded are things we should all be aiming for in life. If you haven’t been to Dessous, go. If you have been, go again now. There’s a new menu and it leans heavily into Dan’s Thai background as well as all that is good about excellent produce and delicious flavours.