Step into Bar Magnolia on Sydney Road and you're wrapped in it straight away: the low golden light, the easy murmur of good conversation, the quiet thrill of something thoughtful happening behind the bar. Co-owners chef Mia Coady-Plumb and winemaker Lawrence Scanlon have created a space where classic French technique flickers with wit, soul, and a little rebellion. Mia’s food, which she calls "irreverent" French, honours tradition but never feels bound by it, each plate carrying a beautiful, unexpected spark. Before stepping into Melbourne's dining scene, Mia sharpened her skills in some of Sydney’s most celebrated two- and three-hatted kitchens, later moving to Melbourne to help open much-loved Town Mouse before bringing her talents to Cutler and Co, Anchovy, Lune, and Smith and Daughters, amongst others. I pulled up a stool at the bar to talk with Mia about Magnolia, about instinct and flavour, and about why a little mischief might just be tradition's best friend. We also talked about the reality of chef life and running a small business. This was an incredible chat, and I loved every minute of it.