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After a few years working across Australia, Asia and London, Maltese chef Jonathan Brincat went back home to Malta to cook his own food, his own way. He opened Noni in Valletta, a restaurant built on the flavours he grew up with and refined through years in other kitchens. Six years on, it holds a Michelin star. Noni is about Maltese food, but not as you might expect. Dishes that start with memory and familiarity are reworked with technique and precision. The flavour stays front and centre. The rest follows. Jonathan is in Melbourne for the Food and Wine Festival, bringing a version of Noni to Maha using Australian produce. It’s the first time a Maltese chef has been part of the global series, and a chance to put Malta, and his take on it, on the table here.