I sat down with James Gallagher at Enbarr on a lovely autumn afternoon. We talked about mythology, Irish foodways, and the arc of his life in this building; a pub he worked in for years and has now come full circle to own. Once we’d finished talking, I was lucky enough to eat the food we’d been discussing. I haven’t stopped thinking about the soda bread since, or the boxty, dishes that felt like a deliciously warm hug. The food at Enbarr draws from Irish tradition, preservation, and storytelling, filtered through experience and restraint, and elevated without losing its soul. I’m already planning my return.
