On a wet, gloomy Melbourne day, Ronin Omakase was unexpectedly warm. Despite its concrete walls, brutalist lines and high ceilings, the room is inviting with shelves lined with house made ferments; persimmon for desserts, wombok and white kimchi, citrus cheong and fruit vinegars quietly developing behind the counter. Liam Lee cooks directly in front of ten diners, tasting, adjusting and guiding the pace of the meal as it unfolds. After more than a decade cooking in Korea and Australia, including formative years feeding seventy soldiers three meals a day in the Korean army and leading kitchens at Studio Amaro, Firebird and Waterside Hotel, Liam is introducing his own version of Korean omakase to Melbourne. The menu reflects his childhood, training and values: deeply Korean in flavour, grounded in Victorian produce, and carefully balanced so that ten courses feel generous but never overwhelming. In our conversation, he spoke candidly about the pressures of Korean hospitality culture, the challenge of building a career while raising a young family, and his determination to create a kitchen, and an experience, defined by respect, consistency and care.
