What is a 'kook' in surf culture?
Explore the contrast between novice surfers and local experts as Sam Bleakley, a longboard surf champion, delves into the origins of this term. Hear about the historical context from Hollywood’s influence to global surf communities. Learn how experienced surfers like Stephanie Gilmore and Kelly Slater approach newcomers with wisdom and inclusivity. Expect to gain insights on the in-group and out-group dynamics within surfing, and why it’s key to share knowledge for safer, more enjoyable experiences. Finally, get a glimpse into Sam’s advice for his younger self on navigating the surf industry.
00:00 Introduction to the Concept of a Kook
00:04 Hollywood's Influence on Surf Culture
00:45 The Kook vs. Local Dynamic
01:25 Surfing Wisdom from Legends
01:57 Broader Implications of Ingroup-Outgroup Bias
03:24 The Role of Teachers in Surfing
04:53 Final Thoughts and Personal Advice
