Shows
Raport o stanie modyO krytyce mody z Kamilą WagnerZakończył się Bal Debiutantów, sezon wielkich modowych przewrotów, jeszcze większych oczekiwań i ogromnych emocji. Ponad dwadzieścia domów mody, w tym Chanel, Dior, Gucci i Balenciaga, wymieniło swoich dyrektorów kreatywnych. Z Kamilą Wagner, szefową działu magazyn „Vogue Polska”, rozmawiamy o tym, kto nas zachwycił, a kto rozczarował. Zrzucamy ciężkie tweedowe garsonki Chanel u Matthieu Blazy’ego, składamy fartuszkowy hołd Miucci Pradzie, doceniamy lateksowe prowokacje Durana Lantinka u Jeana Paula Gaultiera i branding Margieli w ustach modelek Glenna Martensa. Zastanawiamy się też, czy w epoce TikToka i Instagrama każdy może zostać krytykiem mody...
2025-11-1346 min
StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 Women’s with Philippe Pourhashemi - Part 2In this two-part episode Eugene Rabkin and Philippe Pourhashemi discuss this past season of many debuts, whether the so-called "great reset" was successful, and address two main narratives that are gripping the fashion media, the power and tact (or lack thereof) of the sideline fashion commentariat, and whether designers are out of touch with the needs of modern women.In episode one Eugene and Philippe discuss New York, London, and Milan, the debuts of Demna at Gucci, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Simone Belotti at Jil Sander, and Dario Vitale at Versace (pronounced, Ver-says) and the democratization...
2025-10-291h 40StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 Women’s with Philippe Pourhashemi - Part 1In this two-part episode Eugene Rabkin and Philippe Pourhashemi discuss this past season of many debuts, whether the so-called "great reset" was successful, and address two main narratives that are gripping the fashion media, the power and tact (or lack thereof) of the sideline fashion commentariat, and whether designers are out of touch with the needs of modern women.In episode one Eugene and Philippe discuss New York, London, and Milan, the debuts of Demna at Gucci, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Simone Belotti at Jil Sander, and Dario Vitale at Versace (pronounced, Ver-says) and the democratization...
2025-10-251h 30StyleZeitgeist PodcastWe All Came to Barneys with Gene PressmanOur guest on this episode is Gene Pressman, of the great retail family that made Barneys into a New York fashion institution that has become part of the city lore and that has left an indelible mark on fashion itself. Barneys was a trailblazer, a temple for true fashion cognoscenti. Gene's new book, out September 2nd is called "They All Came to Barneys: A Personal History of the World's Greatest Store." We see no lies; Barneys was the world's greatest store, and we all came there. Gene walks us through the ark of his career, through the c...
2025-09-022h 06
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2025-09-0100 minStyleZeitgeist PodcastAgainst the Grain with Patrick Van OmmeslaegheOur guest is Patrick Van Ommeslaeghe, one of the most talented Belgian designers you have probably never heard of. We speak about his career arc, from assisting Josephus Thimister at Balenciaga to building out the womenswear at Jil Sander with Raf Simons, to the short but brilliant life of his own brand, why he quite the fashion rat race and has quietly worked behind the scenes at houses like Loewe, and why the current fashion system is broken.Support the show
2025-08-181h 25StyleZeitgeist PodcastFashion As Concept with Hussein ChalayanThe Turkish Cypriot designer Hussein Chalayan burst onto the London fashion scene with a brilliant 1993 graduate show Tangent Flows. With work that blended philosophy, science, technology, history and fashion, Chalayan became the pinnacle of conceptual fashion. Today, Chalayan designs and makes art, teaches at HTW in Berlin, and is a mentor at Forecast Mentorship Program 2025. In this wide-ranging episode Chalayan we discuss his career arc and the spirit of intellectual inquiry that has driven him to create some of the most memorable collections in the history of contemporary fashion.Support the show
2025-07-281h 33StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 Men's with Philippe PourhashemiWe are back with the fashion journalist Philippe Pourhashemi to reflect on the Spring / Summer 2026 menswear season. We discuss many collections, starting at Pitti Uomo in Florence and ending with Paris. We dissect J.W. Anderson's debut at Dior, including the new ad campaign, Julian Klaussner's runway debut at Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens's moment of grandeur, Craig Green's return to the Paris catwalk, how the Japanese continue to make Paris look good, what we saw at the showroom and why the best clothes are coming from small brands, and much more. Support the show
2025-07-111h 47StyleZeitgeist PodcastHow To Build an Independent Brand in Paris with Lutz HuelleOn this episode we speak with the German fashion designer Lutz Huelle, who has built a brand with a cult following from scratch. Lutz tells us about growing up in a small German town in the '80s, his friendship with the photographer Wolfgang Tillmans, the dream world of the '90s London youth culture and Central Saint-Martins, how he ended up designing the Artisanal and knitwear lines during the golden years of Martin Margiela, and eventually launching his own line in Paris. We discuss the challenges of the fashion system and his teaching job, and speak about why...
2025-06-301h 26StyleZeitgeist PodcastWhat Martin Margiela and Dries Van Noten Meant with Patrick ScallonApologies for the hiatus, but we are back with a bang! On this episode we speak with Patrick Scallon, Paris-based communication consultant who was the head of communications at Maison Martin Margiela from 1993 to 2008 and at Dries Van Noten from 2008 to 2023. In the fashion world Patrick is a legend, having helped shape two of the most iconic independent brands. He was awarded the Chevaliers des Arts et des Lettrés by the French ministry of Culture for his contribution to fashion in 2019.We get into the weeds (hence the feature length of this episode!) of his years a...
2025-06-132h 25StyleZeitgeist PodcastWhat Luxury? with Robert WilliamsOn this episode we speak with Robert Williams, Luxury Editor at the Business of Fashion. We start with Robert's unique career journey as an American student in Paris (it wasn't like Emily's), before going on to discuss the challenges of maintaining independence in fashion journalism. We explore the evolving landscape of the fashion industry over the past decade, discussing the intersection of fashion and marketing, the challenges faced by the fashion media, and the impact of consumer behavior on luxury fashion. We examine why heritage brands want to be luxury fashion brands, and the pricing dilemmas that have emerged...
2025-04-171h 54StyleZeitgeist PodcastNEMESIS with Emily SegalOn this episode we speak with Emily Segal, the founder of the brand strategy agency Nemesis, publishing house Deluge, and the author of the novel Mercury Retrograde. Emily came to fame in the 2010s as the co-founder of the collective K-Hole, which coined the term "normcore." She went on to work with everyone from Prada to Supreme, and learned a few things along the way, some of which we discuss in this episode. We mostly concentrate on two pieces of her writing, the Umami Theory of Value and B for Balenciaga, a brand case study. We discuss why the...
2025-04-041h 27StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week F/W 2025 Women's with Philippe PourhashemiWe are back with Philippe Pourhashemi to review the women’s Fall / Winter 2025 season. We discuss the debuts of Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein, Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, and Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten. We also give our impressions of what is likely to be the last collection of Daniel Lee at Burberry, and dive into the shows of Undercover, Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons and more.Support the show
2025-03-211h 44StyleZeitgeist PodcastFashion & Art: Redux with Natasha DegenNatasha Degen, the chair of Art Market Studies at Fashion Institute of Technology and the author of Merchants of Style: Art and Fashion after Andy Warhol, is back on the podcast to discuss the ever more insidious relationship between fashion and art. We discuss her concept of Art Pop, which are commercial ventures that are given an air of an art project, what the second rounds of collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Takashi Murakami and Yayoi Kusama signify, and why fashion is increasingly getting into film, TV, and books and literature.Support the show
2025-03-111h 47StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week F/W 2025 Men's with Philippe PourhashemiWe are back with the journalist and critic Philippe Pourhashemi to review the Fall / Winter 2025 men's season. We discuss the Setchu runway debut at Pitti Uomo in Florence, and touch upon the meaning of and the need to put on a fashion show, Peter Copping's debut at Lanvin, the new direction at Dries Van Noten, and the shows of Auralee, Comme des Garçons, Rick Owens, and more. We talk about the continuous grotesquery at LVMH, as well as our surprise reactions to the latest collections from Kim Jones and Prada.Support the show
2025-02-111h 15
Blamo!PATREON PREVIEW - Die, Workwear! - Eugene RabkinPatreon Preview from Blamo!Do you ever feel like fashion writers clap for whatever is sent down the runway? Derek and Peter chatted with Eugene Rabkin, founder of StyleZeitgeist, a fashion writer who is unafraid of criticism. They talk about what has been behind the slowdown in the luxury fashion market, why fashion criticism is hard to come by nowadays, and the "deskilling" of the consumer.**Listen to the entire episode and read their gift guide on the Blamo! Patreon Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.co...
2025-02-0620 minStyleZeitgeist PodcastThe State of Luxury with Ana AndjelicOn this episode, we speak with Ana Andjelic, the strategic branding mastermind who knows her Bs from "Brand" to "Baudrillard," author of the Sociology of Business Substack and of the new book Hitmakers: How Brands Influence Culture. We discuss how the luxury industry went off rails through over-expansion, the difference between the luxury and fashion mentality and the luxury and commodity thinking, and what it will take to turn things around. We discuss how fashion trends are really created and why everything looks interchangeable. We finish the episode with a surprising marketing case-study!Support the show
2025-01-131h 40StyleZeitgeist PodcastBreaking News with Astrid Wendlandt of Miss TweedOn this episode we speak with Astrid Wendlandt, the founder of the fashion news website Miss Tweed. This year Miss Tweed came to prominence as the first to break many fashion appointment news, and has made plenty of powerful enemies, such as Bernard Arnault, the CEO of LVMH, and Johann Rupert, the owner of Richemont. But Wendlandt is no rumor-monger; she is a veteran journalist who for decades has worked at prestigious publications like Reuters and the Financial Times, where she honed her investigative reporting skills. We talk about the arc of her career, including her first job at...
2024-12-201h 31StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week S/S 25 Women’s with Philippe PourhashemiEugene Rabkin is back with Philippe Pourhashemi to discuss the Spring / Summer 2005 women's shows in Paris and Milan. They talked about Alessandro Michele's debut at Valentino, the need for change at Rick Owens, their different takeaways from the Dries Van Noten without Dries debut, the stagnant and bland luxury market, why Haider Ackermann is a brilliant choice for Tom Ford and what it means to hire a real designer at the helm of a big brand, and much more.Support the show
2024-10-181h 27StyleZeitgeist PodcastFashion, London, Clubbing with Mark C. O'FlahertyOn this episode we speak with the London-based fashion and interior design journalist and photographer Mark C. O'Flaherty. Mark is the author of The Narrative Thread, a book about the relationship of fashion collectors to their clothes, and a regular contributor to the New York Times, the Financial Times, the Architectural Digest, Elle Decor, the World of Interiors, among others.We talked about the early '90s London club and queer culture and how it influenced London's fashion scene, Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood's enduring sway over it, his work with Alexander McQueen, about...
2024-08-231h 43StyleZeitgeist PodcastFashion Recruitment with Alice BouleauSo, you want to get a job in fashion? But how? Or are you curious about what goes on behind the scenes of creative director musical chairs? On this episode we speak with Alice Bouleau, Partner at Sterling International, a premier executive search agency. Alice places creative directors and high level executives all over the world in some of the most prestigious fashion houses. We dive deep into how the fashion recruitment process works, examine why some designers actually don't want creative director positions, the blunders that happen along the way of recruitment, the current creative director m...
2024-08-091h 39StyleZeitgeist PodcastFashion Production with Joseph KeeferSo, you want to launch a brand? But do you know how it all actually works? For this episode we invited our old friend Joseph Keefer, who has had a long career in fashion on all fronts; retail, production, merchandising, and design, and who has launched his brand JKEEFER in 2020 in New York City. Joey is one of us, he grew up in the skate, punk, and hardcore scenes in Washington, DC. He started in retail as a teenager, and has moved from gig to gig, slowly learning the ropes. On this episode we go through Joey's journey that...
2024-07-261h 48StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week S/S 25 Men’s with Philippe PourhashemiWe are back with Philippe Pourhashemi to discuss this past menswear season. We talk about the shows at Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris, from the strange department-store-bound debut of Marine Serre at Pitti Uomo, and an unexpectedly joyful show of Pierre-Louis Mascia, about how bad the Milan shows were this season, the gimmicks at J.W. Anderson, the impotence at Prada, about the grotesque spectacles that Pharrell puts on at Louis Vuitton, and how Japanese designers like Undercover, Sacai, Kolor, and the newcomers like Masu and Taakk continue to make Paris look creative. We go in depth a...
2024-07-121h 39StyleZeitgeist PodcastDie, Workwear! Die, Fast Fashion! Die, Mass Market! Die, Luxury! With Derek GuyEugene Rabkin speaks with the writer and fashion commentator Derek Guy. Derek has come up in the days of forum culture, has written much about menswear, and has become a reluctant Twitter star. We talk about his style journey, the death of masculine shame about fashion and its unintended consequences, about why so much clothing has by and large has gotten so bad, why the notion of quality and expertise disappeared, why the level of discourse in the glory days of forum culture was so much better than anything you can find on social media today, and about considered...
2024-05-101h 54StyleZeitgeist PodcastMassimo Osti with Lorenzo OstiOn this episode we speak with Lorenzo Osti, the son of Massimo Osti, about the life and legacy of his father, the pioneer of modern men’s fashion. We talk about Osti’s design ethos, work methods, and innovations, and how the newly established brand Massimo Osti Studio carries on Osti’s legacy today.Support the show
2024-04-241h 34StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week F/W24 Women's with Philippe PourhashemiOn this episode we review the Fall/Winter 2024 fashion season in Milan and Paris, including the Alexander McQueen debut and the feedback it has received, the state of Balenciaga and Demna, Ann Demeulemeester, Sacai, and more. Philippe shares thoughts on his new favorite brand, Hodakova, and we talk about why the Dior show was an ad, why the smaller brands like Gaucherre and Lutz Huelle are important, and much more. The question of the day, considering the debuts we have witnessed over the last twelve months - is the new generation capable of producing a great designer?...
2024-03-151h 44StyleZeitgeist PodcastMerchants of Style with Natasha DegenOn this episode we speak with Natasha Degen, Professor and Chair, Art Market Studies, Fashion Institute of Technology about the uneasy symbiosis of fashion and art that she examines in depth in her recent book Merchants of Style: Art and Fashion After Warhol,. We talk about the encroachment of corporate luxury fashion on the art world with Warhol as the pivotal figure, the degradation of the art museum, art and fashion collaborations, Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby, Marc Jacobs and Takashi Murakami, Virgil Abloh and Pharrell, Bernard Arnault's and Francois Pinault's forays into art as the new Medici, and...
2024-02-201h 50StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week F/W 24 Men’s with Philippe PourhashemiOn this episode we are back with Philippe to discuss this past men’s season shows at Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris. We talk about the contrast between Luca Magliano and S.S. Daley, Gucci, Prada, and Zegna (best of season in Milan), why Rick Owens was the show of the season and Yohji Yamamoto was a letdown, the continued elegance of Dries Van Noten, and Rei Kawakubo’s uncharacteristic feeling of lightness, Hermès’ uncompromising quality, why the Japanese newcomers TAAKK and MASU (not covered by Vogue Runway, but covered by us) made Paris exciting, and which small brands...
2024-02-061h 42
Scandinavian MINDIs fashion still relevant? (with Eugene Rabkin)We go existential on the fashion industry with Eugene Rabkin, a New York based writer and editor and founder of the media platform StyleZeitgeistOur editor-at-large Oliver Dahle met with Eugene at the Fashion talks event in Antwerp late last year, hosted by the flemish industry organisation Flanders DC.In this episode we talk about:The failing cultural relevance of fashionHow the industry can regain its statureThe conglomeration of fashionHis backhanded compliment to the Scandinavian fashion industry With:Konrad Olsson, editor-in-chief and Founder of...
2024-01-1826 min
Blamo!PATREON PREVIEW - Die, Workwear! - Intelligence of TastePatreon Preview from Blamo!Do certain forms of taste demonstrate more intelligence than others? Eugene Rabkin recently used the phrase "intelligence of taste" in a StyleZeitgeist op-ed. Derek and Peter talk about how judgments of taste are often sociological and loaded with cultural biases. At the same time, there is such a thing as being more thoughtful about what you choose to wear, which prevents us from falling into pure relativism.**Listen to the entire episode and on the Blamo! Patreon Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm...
2024-01-0420 minStyleZeitgeist PodcastOn Jil Sander with Maria WiesnerOn this episode we speak with Maria Wiesner, the styles editor of Frankfurt Allgemiene Zeitung and the author of a book about the life and work of Jil Sander (published earlier this year in German by HarperCollins). We discuss the formative years of the Queen of Minimalism, how Bauhaus and Hamburg honed her aesthetic, how her trail-blazing, uncompromising vision of minimalism paid off handsomely in the ‘80s and the ‘90s, and her ill-fated deal with Prada.Support the show
2023-12-221h 39StyleZeitgeist PodcastOn Phoebe Philo with Philippe PourhashemiOn this episode we discuss the work of Phoebe Philo and the role she has played in defining contemporary fashion, the aesthetic direction and the business model of her new eponymous brand as compared to her work at Celine, the reception of the first two drops, and what the future holds.Support the show
2023-12-121h 07StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week S/S 24 Women’s with Philippe PourhashemiWe are back with our regular guest Philippe Pourhashemi to review the Spring / Summer 2024 women’s season. We discuss in depth the debuts of Peter Do at Helmut Lang, Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, and Stefano Gallici at Ann Demeulemeester. We talk about the brilliant Undercover outing (spoiler alert: best of season!), Sacai, Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Prada, and many other shows.Support the show
2023-10-131h 52StyleZeitgeist PodcastThe Fashion Law and More with Julie ZerboOn this episode we speak with Julie Zerbo, the founder of the Fashion Law, a fashion media outlet dedicated to fashion, law, business, and industry analysis. Her being a lawyer by education, we find Julie's perspective on fashion both original and pertinent. We talk about Julie's professional journey, the obstacles she faces running an independent publication, and her views on the current state of fashion.Support the show
2023-09-151h 22StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week S/S 24 Men’s with Philippe PourhashemiWe are back with the journalist and critic Philippe Pourhashemi to discuss the recently finished Spring/Summer 2024 fashion season. We review shows from Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris, including Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Sacai, and more, and we discuss Pharrell's Louis Vuitton debut.Support the show
2023-07-071h 13StyleZeitgeist PodcastIs This the End of the Hype Era?On this hot-take episode with Philippe Pourhashemi we discuss the recent firings of Ludovic de Saint Sernin from Ann Demeulemeester and Rhuigi Villasenor from Bally and their implications. We speak about hype versus talent, what makes the right fit between a creative director and a brand, the relationship between management and creative, brand building and reputational risk, and much more.Support the show
2023-05-231h 02StyleZeitgeist PodcastOn Karl Lagerfeld with Amy OdellWe reconnect with the journalist Amy Odell to discuss the problematic legacy of Karl Lagerfeld, the late designer of Chanel, and the new exhibit devoted to his work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. We try to answer one of the central questions of creativity - can you separate the art from the artist? - and dive into other aspects of Lagerfeld's life and work.Support the show
2023-05-051h 12StyleZeitgeist PodcastAll of Your Business with Lauren ShermanOur guest is Lauren Sherman, former senior correspondent at the Business of Fashion, a top-notch reporter whose no-nonsense writing cuts through much of the industry noise. We discuss why fashion journalism used to be a much richer field, why honest reporting is beneficial to fashion, why it’s imperative for a brand to develop a core audience, why LVMH excels at retaining talent, why brick and mortar retail matters, and talk about her new and exciting role at Puck News.Support the show
2023-04-211h 57StyleZeitgeist PodcastWhy Speaking Up Matters with James ScullyWe speak with the casting director James Scully about his trajectory of working in fashion, from his days at the iconic New York boutique Charivari in the ‘80s to his days at Harper’s Bazaar and the changes he witnessed while being there, to becoming one of the best casting agents in the fashion industry; his whistle blowing on the rampant abuse of models and the changes it engendered. James’s is a brilliant story of working his way up in fashion through sheer love of it and his talent. It is also an important one because it provides a rare...
2023-04-062h 19StyleZeitgeist PodcastFall Winter 23 Women's with Philippe PourhashemiWe are back with Philippe to review this past Fall / Winter 2023 Women's fashion show season. We dive into many shows, concentrating on the many debuts, of Daniel Lee at Burberry, Ludovic de Saint-Sernin at Ann Demeulemeester, and Harris Reed at Nina Ricci.Support the show
2023-03-301h 15StyleZeitgeist PodcastThe Meaning of Pharrell at Louis Vuitton with Amy OdellWe are back with fashion journalist and author Amy Odell to discuss Pharrell's appointment as the creative director of Louis Vuitton Menswear and what it means for fashion, what it says about the power of celebrity, Louis Vuitton's business model, and the fashion media.Check out Amy's Back Row Substack, amyodell.substack.comSupport the show
2023-02-211h 07StyleZeitgeist PodcastThe Apology by Demna with Amy OdellWe dissect Demna's first post-Balenciaga scandal interview in Vogue with the journalist Amy Odell. We discuss Demna's mea culpas and the various statements he makes, dive into the mechanics of the interview, its possible causes and effects, Kering's corporate strategy, and Vogue's journalistic integrity. We also try to guess who actually conducted the interview. Odell is a seasoned fashion journalist, and together with Eugene, based on their extensive experience they give a glimpse of what probably went on behind the scenes. You can read Demna's interview here.Support the show
2023-02-1350 minStyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week Mens F/W '23 with Philippe PourhashemiOn this episode we reunite with our regular guest, fashion editor and critic Philippe Pourhashemi, to reflect on the Fall / Winter '23 Men's season. We discuss Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris shows, from Jan-Jan Van Essche to Rick Owens to Yohji Yamamoto to Sacai, the debacle that was the Gucci show without Alessandro Michele, and more!Support the show
2023-02-061h 34
Blamo!PATREON PREVIEW - The JJJ Show - "Drip to Price Ratio"We share our reactions to Pitti/Milan/Paris Fashion Week with special guest Eugene Rabkin of Style Zeitgeist.Talking about the collections we loved, what was weird, what designers are immune to criticism, price increases hitting your favorite brands, Jian saw 40 fashion shows, Paris Fits vs. Pitti Fits, and designers vs. storytellers.**Follow the fellas on IGJian DeLeonJon MoyJeremy Kirkland**Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for in...
2023-02-0222 min
Blamo!Eugene Rabkin's Style ZeitgeistMy guest this week is writer and fashion critic Eugene Rabkin.Eugene has contributed to the New York Times, the Business of Fashion, 032c, and has edited several books, including Stone Island: Storia.Eugene and I discuss his life immigrating to the US from the Soviet Union, how he fell in love with fashion, Nine Inch Nails, and what streetwear took from “avant-garde.” We also discuss the origins of his highly influential site, Style Zeitgeist and what designers he feels are underrated and overlooked.*Sponsored by Standard & Strange – Get the facts on loo...
2023-01-161h 08StyleZeitgeist PodcastKingdom of DreamsWe speak with Peter Ettedgui of Misfits Entertainment, a co-producer of the new docu-series Kingdom of Dreams, out in the UK on Sky and coming to the US market soon. The 4-part documentary traces the rise of Bernard Arnault's LVMH and François Pinault's Kering on the backs of John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs, and Tom Ford. The documentary is full of insight and rare footage, and we speak with Peter about the making of it and what he learned along the way.Support the show
2022-12-2357 minStyleZeitgeist PodcastStatus and Culture (and Fashion) with W. David MarxWe speak with the author W. David Marx about his new book “Status and Culture: How Our Desire for Social Rank Creates Taste, Identity, Art, Fashion, and Constant Change.” We dive deep into the book and explore its basic premise that our cultural and consumption tendencies, especially when it comes to fashion, have to do more with the desire for status than we let on, how conspicuous consumption works, how the old and the new money signals their wealth, why logomania is in full swing today, and more.Support the show
2022-12-011h 50StyleZeitgeist PodcastSpeaking Volumes with Peter DoOn this episode we speak with one of the most interesting designers working in New York (and the world) today, Peter Do. Peter has caught fashion's eye with his sharp, elegant way of dressing that goes against the predominant sportswear and streetwear ethos that American fashion is known for. We sat down with Peter to talk about his journey, his design process, and the challenges he has faced along the way.Support the show
2022-09-131h 36StyleZeitgeist PodcastPatreon Exclusive Preview: Speaking Volumes with Peter DoOn this episode we speak with one of the most interesting designers working in New York (and the world) today, Peter Do. Peter has caught fashion's eye with his sharp, elegant way of dressing that goes against the predominant sportswear and streetwear ethos that American fashion is known for. We sat down with Peter to talk about his journey, his design process, and the challenges he has faced along the way.Listen to the full episode on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/stylezeitgeistSupport the show
2022-08-1520 minStyleZeitgeist PodcastWhat is Design? with Sruli RechtIn this free-wheeling episode we talk to designer Sruli Recht about his journey and about his thoughts on design, the fashion industry, death, and circumcision, amongst other things. When we first met, Sruli was making menswear, technically. But it was apparent that Sruli is not a fashion designer but a product designer, or an artist, if you will. His science fiction-level approach to designing clothes and objects has always intrigued us, as has his unabashed openness and a sober and inquiring way with which he has tackled taboo subjects such as self-deliverance.Support the show
2022-07-281h 50StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week Mens S/S '23 with Philippe PourhashemiIn this episode we discuss the (rather underwhelming) Men's Spring / Summer '23 fashion season. We look at the ups and downs, highs and lows, and pick our favorite collections.Support the show
2022-07-141h 05StyleZeitgeist PodcastThe (Near) Death of Fashion Criticism with Anja Aronowsky CronbergOn this episode we speak with Anja Aronowsky Cronberg, the founder and editor of Vestoj magazine, a publication that aims to bridge fashion and theory, and a bible for all fashion fanatics with an intellectual bent. Anja is one of the most formidable brains in the fashion media and it was a pleasure to speak with her about her journey to Vestoj, her view of fashion criticism and its place and how she's shifting her attitude from being a critic to an informed observer.Support the show
2022-05-261h 46StyleZeitgeist PodcastThe Fashion Media Landscape And Its Discontents With Luke Meagher, Mario Abad, and José Criales-UnzuetaOn this episode we speak with three young fashion media people - Luke Meagher of the YouTube and Instagram channel Haute Le Mode, Mario Abad, the fashion editor of Paper magazine, and José Criales-Unzueta, a regular contributor to I-D, Them and the Business of Fashion about the challenges they face and the problems they see with the current fashion media landscape.Support the show
2022-04-172h 03StyleZeitgeist PodcastFall / Winter '22 Women's Fashion Week with Philippe PourhashemiOn this episode we are back with the critic Philippe Pourhashemi to review the Fall / Winter '22 season, including analyzing how Balenciaga, Rick Owens, and Armani responded to the war in Ukraine, and the reaction of our colleagues, amongst other things.Support the show
2022-03-251h 22StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week F/W 22 (men's and couture) with Philippe PourhashemiOn this episode we are back with the journalist Philippe Pourhashemi to review the Fall/Winter '22 men's season.Support the show
2022-02-031h 07StyleZeitgeist PodcastMake It New with Aitor ThroupOn this episode we host Aitor Throup, one of the most innovative menswear designers who has conceptualized menswear like no other. We discuss his meteoric rise, the difficulty of translating conceptual fashion into a ready-to-wear proposition, his stints at Stone Island and C.P. Company, designing a uniform for the English national football team at the age of 28 , his two upcoming exhibitions, and his new project, Anatomyland.Support the show
2021-12-162h 07StyleZeitgeist PodcastIf You Know, You Know with Jon CaramanicaOn this freewheeling episode we host Jon Caramanica, the New York Times pop-music critic and “critical shopper” columnist. We talk about forming our style journeys in parts of Brooklyn you’ve never heard of, discuss our favorite stores, New York shopping, the demise of Barney’s, death of directional retail, argue about hip-hop and pop culture and much, much more.Support the show
2021-10-282h 37StyleZeitgeist PodcastS/S ’22 Paris and Milan Fashion Week Recap with Philippe PourhashemiWe are back with the journalist and critic Philippe Pourhashemi to discuss the (few) ups and (many) downs of the S/S ’22 womenswear shows that just finished in Paris and Milan.Support the show
2021-10-141h 26StyleZeitgeist PodcastArtisanal Fashion with Geoffrey B. SmallWe speak with the American designer Geoffrey B. Small, who has for decades operated outside of the corporate fashion system, about his experience of building an independent fashion house in Veneto, Italy.Support the show
2021-09-301h 42StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week S/S 22 (men's and couture) with Philippe PourhashemiWe are back with our friend, the journalist and critic Philippe Pourhashemi to give you our (not very favorable) impressions of the Paris men's Spring / Summer 2022 and Couture Fall / Winter 2021 shows. Find out what we thought about the Balenciaga couture debut, Chanel and Fendi, Margiela, Rick Owens, Prada and Raf and much more.Support the show
2021-07-291h 26StyleZeitgeist PodcastFashion as Fetish with Dr. Valerie SteeleOn this episode we host Dr. Valerie Steele, the Director of the Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology), whose knowledge of fashion and ability to put it in socio-historical context is positively awe-inspiring. We discuss her own journey from a high-school dropout to a Columbia doctorate, how and why she chooses topics for fashion exhibits, the genius of Alexander McQueen, fashion fetishes, and the bondage inspiration behind Dior's New Look. You read that right!Support the show
2021-07-081h 14
Making It Up164: Everything bad about the fashion industry and deleting your lifeCharis and Eugene talk about Eugene Rabkin’s essay, “Read This Before You Decide to Work In Fashion” published in Highsnobiety which goes through a laundry list of negative aspects of the fashion industry. They also discuss an artist zine created by Marco Marzocchi called “How To Destroy Everything”, which is connected to a discussion of digital devices as an extension of human memories and the emotional significance we give digital archives.
00:08:05 Fashion industry
00:37:37 Deleting your life
Read This Before You Decide to Work In Fashion by Eugene Rab...
2021-04-2656 minStyleZeitgeist PodcastSex with Rick OwensOn this episode we speak with Rick Owens about the role of sex and death in his life and work, about his journey from the Los Angeles underground to one of the most celebrated fashion designers of today, and about the importance of retaining that edge along the way.Support the show
2021-04-151h 29StyleZeitgeist Podcast4'33" or Paris Fashion Week Review without Philippe PourhashemiThis past Paris Fashion Week left me underwhelmed, but I still wanted to review it with the journalist Philippe Pourhashemi, as has become our new tradition. But when I reached out to Philippe, I found out that there was actually someone who was dispirited even more than I was. "Eugene, we can't talk about Rick Owens for an hour," he told me, politely declining the podcast offer. I mean, I could, but he had a point. I did like a couple of more collections - TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist and Dries Van Noten - but apart from these usual suspects, it was...
2021-03-1504 minStyleZeitgeist PodcastExplain to Me with Jian DeLeonWe speak with Jian DeLeon, the menswear and editorial director at Nordstrom, Eugene's former editor at Highsnobiety, a menswear geek par excellence, and one of the quickest minds when it comes to analyzing men's fashion in cultural context, about his personal style and career journey, and the kind of men's fashion that Eugene finds perpetually perplexing.Support the show
2021-03-111h 54StyleZeitgeist PodcastCritical Shopping with Cintra WilsonFor this episode we caught up with Cintra Wilson, one of our absolute favorite writers, the former Critical Shopper for the New York Times, the author of several books of cultural criticism, a one-time StyleZeitgeist magazine contributor, the mother of our most favorite phrase that keyboard ever put onto computer screen, "If Marni is post-sex, Comme des Garcons is post reason," and an all around brilliant punk. We talk about her tenure at the New York Times, her breathtaking metaphors and inimitable sense of humor, and touch a bit on fashion semiotics. This one is a must for any a...
2021-02-251h 25StyleZeitgeist PodcastFashion & Music with Wesley EisoldOn this episode we discuss the relationship between fashion and music, via personal style journey, with Wesley Eisold, the frontman of Cold Cave and American Nightmare.Support the show
2021-02-111h 41StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week F/W21 with Philippe PourhashemiWe brought back on the journalist and fashion critic Philippe Pourhashemi to break down the Fall / Winter 21 season.Support the show
2021-01-291h 13StyleZeitgeist PodcastCarol Christian Poell with Karlo SteelOn this episode we discuss the work of the cult fashion designer Carol Christian Poell.Support the show
2021-01-211h 25StyleZeitgeist PodcastFashion, Vintage and New, with Gill Linton of ByronesqueIn this episode we discuss fashion, vintage and new, why some fashion ends up in the pantheon and others in the back of your closet, and some other things with Gill Linton the founder of Byronesque. Support the show
2020-12-171h 32StyleZeitgeist PodcastThe Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren with Paul GormanWe discuss the incredible life of Malcolm McLaren, the (mis)manager of the Sex Pistols, the enabler and partner of Vivienne Westwood, and an all around agent of creative chaos, with Paul Gorman, the author of the new biography The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren. Find out about punk rock and punk style, McLaren and Westwood's series of legendary shops at 430 Kings Road, where the iconic Tits shirt came from, which famous fashion designers went to the first Sex Pistols concert in London, and much more. Bonus - find out where Supreme got its name from....
2020-11-131h 36StyleZeitgeist PodcastSustainability? with Elizabeth ClineWe discuss sustainability and ethical production with Elizabeth Cline, a sustainability expert and an author of two books, Overdressed and The Conscious Closet. We talk about our respective approaches to what shopping sustainably means, and we bust some sustainability myths in our usual no-holds-barred manner.Support the show
2020-10-221h 14StyleZeitgeist PodcastParis Fashion Week S/S21 with Philippe PourhashemiWe break down the Spring / Summer 21 season with the journalist and fashion critic Philippe Pourhashemi.Support the show
2020-10-101h 17StyleZeitgeist PodcastTalking Menswear with Sam LobbanIn this episode Eugene talks with Sam Lobban, the VP of designer mens and womens at Nordstrom, about his love of fashion and about his journey from a 15-year-old North London shop-floor kid who spent all his salary on Stone Island, to going on buying trips to Paris for Selfridges at the ripe age of 18 for Raf Simons and Undercover, to bringing obscure Japanese brands as the head of menswear at Mr. Porter, to infusing Nordstrom with his unique vision.Support the show
2020-10-081h 11StyleZeitgeist PodcastHow Atelier Shaped the Menswear Avant-garde with Karlo SteelNot everyone knows that StyleZeitgeist began as a forum dedicated to the menswear avant-garde, helping form it into a cultural phenomenon. In many ways the iconic menswear boutique Atelier did in retail space what we did in cyberspace, so it seemed fitting to go back to our roots early on in the life of this podcast by chatting with Karlo Steel, Atelier's co-founder.Support the show
2020-09-241h 42Making It Up089: Political correctness in fashion and the rise of the slackerEugene and Charis talk about whether or not an issue of political correctness censoring fashion design exists, a discussion revolving around an op-ed written by Eugene Rabkin. They also talk about how the age of the influencer is starting to come to an end while appreciation of the slacker and slacking off is on the rise.
00:02:23 Politically correct fashion
00:29:27 Rise of the slacker
Links:
https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/fashion-age-political-correctness/
https://qz.com/quartzy/1588115/instagram-influencers-are-out-slackers-are-in/
www.maekan.com
2019-05-2044 min