Shows
Jeansland PodcastFrom Begging for Orders to Building Power with Umer Farooq Qureshi - Part 1In this powerful two-part conversation, Andrew Olah welcomes back Umer Farooq Qureshi for a deep dive into the structural imbalances plaguing the denim supply chain. Framed by the enduring legacy of colonial capitalism, the discussion explores how suppliers have been conditioned to act like beggars in pursuit of orders — and how that mindset must shift. Together, they challenge conventional wisdom on pricing, power, partnerships, and trade shows, while calling for a new era of unity, dignity, and bold reinvention.This is a rare, brutally honest conversation about uncomfortable truths and how facing them might just be the fi...2025-06-2425 min
Jeansland PodcastFrom Begging for Orders to Building Power with Umer Farooq Qureshi - Part 2In this powerful two-part conversation, Andrew Olah welcomes back Umer Farooq Qureshi for a deep dive into the structural imbalances plaguing the denim supply chain. Framed by the enduring legacy of colonial capitalism, the discussion explores how suppliers have been conditioned to act like beggars in pursuit of orders — and how that mindset must shift. Together, they challenge conventional wisdom on pricing, power, partnerships, and trade shows, while calling for a new era of unity, dignity, and bold reinvention.This is a rare, brutally honest conversation about uncomfortable truths and how facing them might just be the fi...2025-06-2440 min
Jeansland PodcastWhat if Sustainability Was the Standard? Breaking Down Denim’s Future with Roian AtwoodWhat if sustainability wasn’t a competitive edge — but the baseline for the entire denim industry? Andrew sits down with sustainability expert Roian Atwood to unpack the urgent challenges and overlooked opportunities shaping denim’s future.Roian is a seasoned business leader and sustainability practitioner who’s spent over two decades improving the social and environmental performance of products and supply chains. A former global sustainability director for Wrangler and Lee Jeans, he now consults on decarbonization, manufacturing optimization, and conservation biology across the globe.Together, Andrew and Roian dive deep into how the industry can brea...2025-06-0633 min
Jeansland PodcastJohnny Diamandis - Designer, Creative Consultant & Educator | Evisu, Burberry, Royal College of Art, SAICDesigner and brand consultant Johnny Diamandis joins Andrew Olah to explore what it truly takes to build a fashion brand today. With a globally successful track record designing menswear, accessories, and more for brands like Evisu, Burberry London, Nike, Fake London, and CAT Footwear, Johnny shares candid insights from both industry and academia. The conversation covers the financial realities of launching a brand, storytelling, design leadership, innovation, and what makes a product stand out—plus thoughtful advice for students and emerging designers. His teaching work includes institutions such as the Royal College of Art London, Parsons New York, and cu...2025-05-2146 min
Jeansland PodcastTim North - Co-CEO at Ecom TradingIn this episode, cotton expert Tim North discusses global cotton production, trade dynamics, and government support programs in key countries like the U.S., India, China, and Pakistan. He highlights how subsidies distort markets, why some traditional exporters have become importers, and the challenges facing producers.The conversation also covers the rise of regenerative and traceable cotton as scalable, sustainable alternatives to organic cotton. Looking ahead, North sees little short-term price movement unless supply issues, especially in Texas, disrupt the market.Want more of Tim’s insights and expertise? Go knock on the door: https://ww...2025-05-1440 min
Jeansland PodcastUmer Farooq Qureshi - Disruptive Product Leader / Textile-to-Tech Strategist / AI for Brand ProtectionAndrew and Umer Farooq Qureshi pull back the denim curtain to reveal Levi’s jaw-dropping 62% margin is built on supplier suffering. From closed-door biddings to so-called partnerships, from collapsing currencies to cotton politics, this episode shows exactly how the kings (brands) are bleeding the commoners (factories) dry, and what happens when the commoners stop playing nice. This isn’t just a talk about jeans. It’s about fairness, futures, and who gets crushed when a spreadsheet wins.👉 Want the backstory? This whole conversation was sparked by Umer’s LinkedIn post: The Things No One Tells You but You...2025-05-0238 min
Jeansland PodcastAndrew's Post Kingpins ThoughtsIn this solo episode, Andrew returns from a whirlwind week—first as a guest at the Kingpin Show in Amsterdam, his first time attending since selling the business, and then at a high-level diplomatic event in Washington, D.C.—to share unfiltered reflections on industry dynamics, global economic shifts, and the rising impact of U.S. tariffs. From the importance of venue vibes to why group negotiations could save the supply chain, this candid conversation covers it all. Plus, insights from an unexpected bright spot: Pakistan’s surprising economic turnaround.Got thoughts on the episode or something you'd...2025-04-2810 min
Jeansland PodcastPeter Caplowe - Fashion Pioneer/Entrepreneur Who Brought EVISU to the WEST!This edition covers ground close to my heart because it's about discovery, it's about feeling, and about the heart in business. I get to talk to Peter Caplowe, who was not in the jeans business in 1994 but went to Japan, discovered Evis, or Evisu, the Japanese brand that had a domestic cult following, super expensive 1940s Levi replications with hand painted back pockets, that Mr. Yamane the creator and owner, painted himself, 14 pairs a day. And from there, Peter built an amazing business.Peter Caplowe LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/peter-caplowe-23b56714/Entrepot.Asia...2025-04-161h 07
Jeansland PodcastAnatt Finkler - Global Denim Creative Director / WeAr Denim EditorAnatt Finkler, an enthusiastic member of the denim industry from Mexico who finds joy not just from her work but in education and sustainability.Learn more about Anatt’s professional journey: https://www.linkedin.com/in/anatt-f-70229181/2025-04-0924 min
Jeansland PodcastEthical Denim Council (EDC) with Sharmon Lebby & Chana RosenthalEthical Denim Council is a non-profit organization whose sole mission is to help create order sanctity. Simply put, we want an agreement from buyers that place orders to simply agree to carry out their commitments, just as they expect the supplier to carry out theirs. Seems simple enough, but it’s not part of our industry. YET.Sharmon Lebby – Project Manager, Ethical Denim CouncilChana Rosenthal – Denim Industry Advocacy Advisor, Ethical Denim Councilhttps://www.ethicaldenimcouncil.org/2025-04-0223 min
Jeansland PodcastBob Antoshak - Industry Strategist and Policy ExpertBob Antoshak calls himself an Industry Strategist and Policy Expert. I call him an experienced, industry professional having spent chunks of his life on trade policy, cotton marketing, consultancy, and sourcing. Bob’s been where must people never get to.Bob's LinkedIn profile: https://www.linkedin.com/in/rantoshak/2025-03-2637 min
Jeansland PodcastAdriano Goldschmied Part 2 - "The Godfather of Denim" - Founder and Designer, Genious Group, House of Gold, Daily Blue DenimAdriano Goldschmied is an example for anyone in the denim industry or who aspires to be in it. He is incredibly creative, full of energy day and night, uncommonly hard working and perpetually passionate about his work.geniousgroup.ladailybluedenim.comhouseofgoldusa.com2025-03-1926 min
Jeansland PodcastAdriano Goldschmied Part 1 - "The Godfather of Denim" - Founder and Designer, Genious Group, House of Gold, Daily Blue DenimAdriano Goldschmied is an example for anyone in the denim industry or who aspires to be in it. He is incredibly creative, full of energy day and night, uncommonly hard working and perpetually passionate about his work.See his projects here:geniousgroup.ladailybluedenim.comhouseofgoldusa.com2025-03-1228 min
Jeansland PodcastJeansland IntroductionThis is why I do this. Jeansland is a podcast about the ecosystem in which jeans live. There are an estimated 26 million cotton farmers around the world, and about 25% of their production goes into jeans, which could mean 6.2 million farmers depend on denim. I read estimates that at least 1 million people work in retail selling jeans, and another 1.5 to 2 million sew them. And then there are all the label producers, pattern makers, laundries, chemical companies, machinery producers, and those that work in denim mills. I mean, the jeans industry, which is bigger than the global movie and m...2025-02-2601 min
Jeansland PodcastWouter Munnichs - Founder Online Denim Magazine Long JohnThis man’s driving force is to inspire people in our industry and that in itself makes him and his work special.Long John website: www.long-john.nl2025-02-2624 min
Jeansland PodcastStefano Aldighieri - President, Another Design StudioHis dream was to work for Levi’s and his dream came true, and much more. Stefano is one of the rare individuals that knows design, marketing, and social media. All-rounded is not that common!Find Stefano at: anotherdesignstudio.com2025-02-1929 min
Jeansland PodcastImran Asghar - Director, South Asia FibreTrace | Co-Founder, The Sourcery | Expert in Physical & Digital Traceability | Former EVP/Board Member, SIA Foundation PakistanIf you want to know about the cotton industry in Pakistan, which is rather important, Imran is the expert.2025-02-0524 min
Jeansland PodcastSalli Deighton - Founder LaundRE, Responsible & Circular denim finishing in the UKOpening a denim laundry in London England, of all places, is both auspicious and brave. It's taken Salli a lot of effort to get this done --- combined with lots of love.laundre.co.uk2025-01-1626 min
Jeansland PodcastHeddels Blowout: Upstream Transformations with Andrew Olah of Kingpins ShowAs consumers, we have the tiniest window into how the products we use are made. Maybe you get a single country of origin or the fiber content, but that hides the many other chemicals, countries, and suppliers that contributed to its production. Andrew Olah has been in the upstream world of denim and clothing production for nearly 50 years and has run the Kingpins Show, one of the biggest markets and informational resources for denim and jeans manufacturers, since 2004. We talk with Andrew about everything from his early days in the denim business, how to run a trade...2025-01-1654 min
Jeansland PodcastSteven Bethell - Founder Bank & Vogue Ltd/Ltée., BVH Services & Beyond RetroSteven's company, Bank & Vogue, sounds like something run out of Gotham Hall but it's run out of Ottawa and it's about the greenest thing there is in our fashion industry.bankvogue.com2025-01-1616 min
Jeansland PodcastPaolo Leidi - Denim, Corduroy and Apparel fabrics Engineer at ITESome people buy denim, some people know about denim, but Paolo builds denim mills. He knows about everything one can know. He is a one-of-a-kind, or at minimum, a very special denim person.Website: www.itetex.comInstagram: @ite_indigo_taste_experience2025-01-1528 min
Jeansland PodcastFashion, Feminism & the Future - Ayesha Barenblat CEO of RemakeAyesha Barenblat has spent 20 years trying to create a conscious consumer movement through her non-profit Remake organization. And her work to help women workers in the garment industry is beyond admirable. Website: https://remake.world/Instagram: @remakeourworld2025-01-1430 min
Jeansland PodcastSanjeev Bahl - Founder and CEO of Saitex, talks happiness, disruption and the limitations of the current sustainability conversations.Ok. I am a fan. I really love what he does and why he does it. I’m biased but I also think he's smart and he makes you think. Not everyone does.2025-01-1332 min
Jeansland PodcastJerome Dahan - Founder of Citizens of Humanity and 7 for All Mankind, on the thrill of building brands and the bewildering state of the market.Jerome was a designer for Lucky Brand and then suddenly he created Seven for all Mankind. Like shot out of a denim canon, he went from being behind the scenes to being the scene. When I launched a denim publication, Kingpins Quarterly, I knew I wanted our first interview to be Jerome.2025-01-1013 min
Jeansland PodcastScott Morrison - (Paper Denim, Earnest Sewn and 3x1) on his movie Common ThreadScott will always be one of my all-time favorite people (ATFP) in our industry. A marketer extraordinaire and gentle and kind man. If there was a GOAT (GREATEST of ALL TIME) list of brand creators, Scott would be there.Enjoy the Common Thread movie here.2025-01-0935 min
Jeansland PodcastFibreTrace: Getting Insight Into the Supply Chain with Shannon MercerWhen Paul Stenning, the inventor of FibreTrace, showed me what FibreTrace was, many years ago at the Sanderson Hotel in London, I think I levitated about 11 inches off the ground. Never had a better moment in my life. Amazing product.fibretrace.io2025-01-0712 min