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The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.Book a Session With Neely:trainingbeta.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:2024-04-151h 59
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastCalories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition New Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training (and learn more about what Alex talks about in this article), you can check it out in the link below. In the program, you’ll get a 4-week training program from Alex, a comprehensive nutrition course + one-on-one time with Neely, plus weekly live meetings with Alex and Neely and a lot more. As a...2022-07-2943 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way. While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that made training challenging this year. One of those constraints was that Matt was working at a restaurant and coaching for a total of about 70 hours per week, so his plan needed to be efficient. The other is that he only had a board to climb on the entire time, and not that...2022-06-011h 05
Subscription EntrepreneurHow To Build A Thriving Community That Converts with Neely QuinnHave you ever wanted to build a business around a topic, activity, or field you're deeply passionate about?It's kind of the dream, right?Getting to work on something day in and day out that's fueled by your natural interest and enthusiasm.And for our special guest on this episode of our podcast – Neely Quinn – that dream became a reality back in 2013 when she started TrainingBeta. They're a membership site that provides people with world-class training programs, nutrition consulting, and educational resources for rock climbers.We're really excited to share this conv...2022-04-1453 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I’m sure you’ve been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing some limit bouldering, only to find that you can hardly get off the ground on your warm-ups. Whether you have a training program written by another coach or by yourself, Matt goes over some alternative plans for limit bouldering sessions, strength sessions (outside of climbing), and volume/endurance sessions. You don’t have to scrap the whole session (unless you really...2022-03-3058 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients’ and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and herself) improve upon it with drills and objective learning. This is a big one, and I walked away from this conversation sort of blown away by how much I’ve been missing in my climbing training all these years. There’s SO MUCH more I could’ve been doing this whole time to make improvements where hangboarding or other...2022-03-021h 27The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create a detailed program for you based on your lifestyle and equipment availability. WORK WITH MATT OR ALEX Goal Setting in Climbing In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we approach goal setting for ourselves and for our clients. Goal setting can be o...2022-02-231h 21The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastRest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking new clients, so if you’d like to work with him, you can sign up here. Matt just started offering 1-hour remote coaching sessions so you can get your training questions answered and have guidance on how to build out a trainin...2021-12-1551 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastRunning for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about running for climbing fitness. In our practices as a coach (Matt) and a nutritionist (me), we see a lot of people who run in the name of climbing training. But there are some common mistakes we see people making in their training schedules, their nutrition practices, and their reasoning behind their actions. We talk about some better choices people can be making with their running, whether it’s scientifically been shown to he...2021-11-121h 06The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into 5.13 and what you need to do physically and mentally to do it. We both share our experiences of our first 5.13’s, which were quite different actually, and our processes of projecting things that are hard for us. We talk about how to turn the try-hard switch on and off on hard routes, and how to stay focused and calm enough to not overgrip and get super pumped. We also talk about resting tactics, an...2021-10-211h 16The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastUnderstanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice Mend in Colorado. Evan is a physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers. He uses the most up-to-date evidence in his practice to get climbers out of pain faster. Evan works to identify the underlying cause of the problem and uses a combination of manual therapy and advanced exercises to return climbers to the wall better than they were before. He treats climbers at al...2021-10-071h 21The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastNeely Quinn on The Nugget Climbing Podcast with Steven DimmittI was interviewed on the Nugget! This is a re-post of an interview with me on the Nugget Climbing Podcast with host Steven Dimmitt. I love being on the other side of an interview occasionally, and Steven is a fantastic interviewer. We had some laughs, talked about some serious stuff, and I feel a little vulnerable about how much I shared personally, honestly. I'm an open book, but when it's recorded and put out to the world, it's a little nerve wracking! I hope you enjoy this interview and maybe get to know me a l...2021-08-251h 47
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. HousesNeely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinnNuggets:2:30 – The other side of the mic4:11 – Singing and pian...2021-08-231h 45The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastThe Art of Trying Hard in Climbing New Running Class with Coach Alex Stiger Do you LOVE to run but don’t know how to fit it in with your climbing? In just a couple weeks, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger and Running Coach Sean Hopkins will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute class where you’ll learn the key considerations for balancing training for climbing and running. You’ll Learn… Which strength training exercises are great for climbing and running How we can warm up appropriately to avoid injuries How running can help you perform better as a climber Template t...2021-08-191h 15The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastProtein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why Welcome to the New Nutrition Episodes I’m not sure why I haven’t done this before, but I’ll be publishing regular episodes on nutrition for climbers. Seeing as how I’m a nutrition professional, I should’ve been talking more about this topic all along! But it’s never too late, so here’s the first of many to come. A little about me, in case you didn’t know: After completing my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutrition certific...2021-08-1229 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTraining Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them. That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too. If you’d like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you ca...2021-08-0135 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your perf...2021-07-291h 01The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTraining and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She’s been training and coaching individuals and teams for...2021-07-2159 min
The Power Company Climbing PodcastClimb Strong and Training Beta, LIVE at ICF 25 | Where to Start TrainingThis episode is a panel recorded live at the International Climbers' Festival a few summers ago in Lander, Wyoming, featuring Steve Bechtel and Charlie Manganiello from Climb Strong, and Neely Quinn and Matt Pincus from TrainingBeta.
You can find tickets for this year's ICF at www.climbersfestival.org
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron fo...2021-06-2555 min
Off Belay PodcastEp. 5: The Ladies' EpisodeJoin us for episode 5 of the Off Belay Podcast, as Mara and Michelle sit down to talk about being a female climber in our community. We're excited to have features from Michelle Lloyd (owner/founder of The Climbing Connection), Kristin from the Ladies Climbing Coalition, and Chelsea Murn of Lady Beta Coaching.
We've broken this episode into 5 segments: gear, resources, taboo topics, frustrations, and the future/hopes and dreams. We hope you enjoy!
Thanks as always to Hammer & Hops Brewing Company for sponsoring the show.
Off Belay Podcast can be contacted by email at offbelaypodcast@gmail.com, or on Instagram...2021-05-151h 08The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastThe ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life About ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing. They have a 4-day retreat coming up in April in Veyo, Utah that will help climbers with the following topics: Befriending Fear Performance Climbing Rock-Life Balance Art of Attention Successful Climbing Goals Yoga for...2021-03-111h 14The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAlex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your MindAbout Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we’ve learned along the way. It can be...2021-02-081h 11The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing. Normally, we’re training strength or strength endurance on the hangboard by hanging with bodyweight, a pulley system, or weight attached to our bodies. However, Tyler talks about how we can just pull on the hangboard...2021-01-0756 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 161 :: Madeleine Crane on Overcoming the Fear of Falling About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology. Due to her personal background in climbing, her main focus is on the psychology in climbing. She has been climbing, learning and exploring for as long as she can remember. Throughout the past decade, she travelled the world representing Austria at...2020-12-231h 19
Podcast NSCA Spain6: La preparación física en la escalada deportiva, con Eva Lopez.Hola muy buenas a toda la comunidad NSCA SPAIN,Hoy contamos con la presencia de Eva López, Licenciada y Phd en ciencias del deporte. Eva es una de las mayores referentes de la escalada deportiva en nuestro país y también a nivel internacional.Como deportista tiene un palmarés increíble en los que se destaca:1a mujer en España en encadenar una vía de 7c a vista2a mujer en España en encadenar 7c+ a vista3a mujer en España y 15a mujer en el Mundo en...2020-12-1047 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAlex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better CoachAbout Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my best friends and a super dedicated trainer/coach. I’ve watched her improve her climbing exponentially over the last 5 years through efficient and specific training. I wanted to ha...2020-11-1159 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastJohn Brosler on Training for Speed ClimbingAbout John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film “Up to Speed.” John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of his proudest accomplishments: 1. 6-time Open Speed National Champion 2. National speed climbing record holder 3. 2018 Pan-Amercian Speed Champion 4. 2019 U.S. Overall Team Member 5. Sending The Vice, 8B/V13 in Rocklands, South Africa Pretty impressive, right? That’s...2020-10-141h 07The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do. Normally, we’re training power at very high intensities as in the campus board. However, in climbing we need to have sustained power output over long periods of time. So he describes how to ga...2020-09-3058 min
Subscription EntrepreneurWhat No One Tells You About Growing A Membership Site with Neely QuinnNeely’s back!If you’ve been following our podcast for awhile now, you might remember one of the very first episodes we recorded: How to Build a Thriving Community That Converts. In that episode, Neely revealed how she first started her membership business, the steps she took to build an engaged community, and how she ultimately made the business profitable. If you haven’t already listened to her first episode, be sure to go back and listen to it.Neely is an amazing entrepreneur and the brains behind TrainingBeta.com – a membership site and community that provides its members...2019-07-0643 min
Subscription EntrepreneurHow to Build a Thriving Community that Converts with Neely QuinnNeely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, a membership site dedicated to providing training programs, nutrition consulting, and education resources for rock climbers. She joins us on the podcast today and shares the story of how she started TrainingBeta, built an audience, got her business off the ground and made it profitable. We cover topics like content strategy, community building, strategic outsourcing, and more.2018-09-1153 minThe Power Company Climbing PodcastPerformance Climbing Coach Seminar | Live Q & AToday's episode is a question and answer session from our Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, recorded live in Columbia, MD. On our final day the participants asked questions of our presenters, including Steve Bechtel and Charlie Manganiello from Climb Strong, Neely Quinn from TrainingBeta, Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance, and Kelly Drager from the Canadian Climbing Team.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us ke...2018-08-2853 minThe Power Company Climbing PodcastNeely Quinn | Common Sense NutritionIf there is a polar opposite of "nutritionist", I'm it. I blank out immediately when talking the details of nutrition. Not so with our guest today, Neely Quinn. Neely is a nutritionist, climber, and host of the TrainingBeta podcast. I've known Neely for some time, but had never talked nutrition with her. She spoke at the recent ClimbStrong Coaching Conference, and I appreciated her simple take on how we should all be eating. I know some of you are like me, and this conversation may prove a little simpler to digest. Pun intended.
You can find more about Ne...2017-05-2258 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastNew Mini Podcast Series with Mercedes Pollmeier: Using Body Awareness in Climbing and BeyondBody Awareness Interview Details What is body awareness? Why it's important in climbing 3 best movements to train overall body awareness How body awareness is helpful in relationships How body awareness is helpful with nutrition Why that's all important for climbing New Podcast Series with Mercedes! I've talked with Mercedes Pollmeier on the podcast a couple times now (#1 and #2), she wrote an article for us, and she's our in-house online personal trainer for TrainingBeta. So knowing how knowledgeable she is and how easy she is to talk to, I wanted to make her...2017-04-0822 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist's Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin CareAbout Jonathan Siegrist Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psyched climbing dad, Bob Siegrist, trying to get him to love the sport as much as he did. He didn't really take to it until his late teens, though. Since then, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen 5.14d's and hundreds of other 5.14s. He's also bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. (Read his recent write...2016-09-211h 14The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 059 :: Access Fund on Going from Gym to Crag ResponsiblyAbout The Access Fund The Access Fund is an organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open for climbers while keeping land owners happy with those climbers. Since 1981, the organization has been helping to end disputes between climbers and landowners and buying climbing land and making it available for us, among many other things. For a full history and overview of the Access Fund, go to this page. Often unnoticed by us climbers, these passionate people have worked hard to keep places like the Red River Gorge and Hueco Tanks open to us. From their site... "Sin...2016-08-301h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 011 :: Online Training Vs In-Person TrainingDate: July 15th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Online Training Vs In-Person Training for Climbing This week in our Ask Kris episode, we talked about the pros and cons of 3 different training types: In-person training with a coach one-on-one Online training with a coach one-on-one Online training without a coach one-on-one Hopefully this will shed some light on what you should do for yourself if you're confused about what option to go with. More Details about The Talk Cost of each option Who should definitely get one-on-one wo...2016-07-1521 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 058 :: Joe Kinder on The BD Bootcamp, Route Development, and Being a ProDate: July 11th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Joe Kinder This is an interview with Joe Kinder, a 36-year-old climber from New Hampshire who was one of our sport's first professional (aka paid) athletes. He's climbed up to 5.14+ sport and 5.13+ trad, and he's given back much to the sport by developing a whole lot of new routes all over the US. He's well known for his consistently high level of psyche for climbing, and for being a genuinely good person and fellow climber at any crag. Joe, Sam El...2016-07-1158 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 010 :: Training on a Time BudgetDate: June 23rd, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Training for Climbing on A Time Budget This week, in our tenth mini Ask Kris episode, we talked about how you can train at home or in the gym on a time budget. We talk about what boulderers should focus on as opposed to route climbers, and how you can train at home or in the gym in less than an hour 2 or 3 times a week. More Details about The Talk Quickie power endurance drills When to do circuit training Don't fo...2016-06-3020 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 009 :: Efficient Home Training for ClimbingEfficient Home Training for Climbing This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no matter what equipment you have to work with. We go through a few scenarios, ranging from a guy Kris worked with who had only a few basic pieces of equipment, all the way up to someone who has a home wall, weights, and other equipment at home. He also gives you a few workouts you can do at home. More Details about The Talk How to train...2016-06-2320 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 008 :: Heart Rate Monitors and Lactic Acid ThresholdsHow to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about two related topics: lactic acid thresholds and heart rate monitor training. Lactic acid is basically the stuff that builds up in your body to make you feel "pumped", and it comes partially from having a high heart rate during activity. In terms of lactic acid, we talk about: how you can increase your lactic acid threshold how a climber might test their lactic acid thr...2016-06-1626 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 007 :: Are You Overtraining?Are You Overtraining? This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest people really need. Here's what we talked about: What overtraining looks like How long you should feel tired after starting a training program The emotional effects of training and overtraining Sugar cravings, hunger, and overtraining Kris's Programs Have Rest Built In To Them All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have rest built into every 6-week cycle so that you don't and ove...2016-06-0918 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 006 :: Improving Overall Fitness for ClimbingImproving Overall Fitness for Climbing This week, in our sixth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve overall fitness for climbing. I was actually a little bit confused about what "fitness" really meant, and Kris helped me understand what it is and how to gain more of it. Here's what we talked about: What fitness actually is Specific workouts you should do to train fitness How I should train for my long-ass route project Who needs fitness? How a workout that has no climbing in it can improve your climbing fitness 2016-05-2625 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for ClimbingImproving Core Strength for Climbing This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Having just spent last week in Rifle on my project, I realized that I need to gain a lot of core strength myself, so I loved this episode. Here's what we talked about: What our "core" actually is What exercises you should do to train core strength How I should train for my core-intensive kneebar crux Why we don't train core with low reps/high weights How to train your...2016-05-1623 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 004 :: Shoulder Care for ClimbersShoulder Care for ClimbersThis week, in our fourth mini episode of Ask Kris,wedecided to talk about shoulders - one of my favorite topics.Alot of climbers have shoulder issues, and we discuss how toavoidinjuries and how to prevent them. Most common shoulder issues for climbersWhen to see a doctorWhat exercises you should do for injury preventionWhat exercises you should avoid when you have an injuryMore about Neely's experience with shoulder surgeryTrain Your Shoulders with Kris's ProgramsAll of the programs that Kris wrote fortrainingbeta.comhave a focus on shoulder stability, stre...2016-05-0221 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 003 :: Training for Bouldering vs RoutesTraining for Bouldering vs Routes
This week, in our third mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about the similarities and differences between training for bouldering vs routes, and what crossover there is between them.
Why route climbers need to train power and how to do it
Why boulderers need to train fitness and how to do it
The best climbing drills for each
The best weight lifts for each
Relevant Links
More about Kris
Train with Kris one-on-one or online
Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingB...2016-04-1220 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 002 :: The 3 Best Lifts for ClimbersNew Ask Kris Mini Episodes!
We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing the regular podcast episodes every week, too!
We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these mini episodes. This week, in our second episode, we decided to talk about the three best lifts for rock climbers.
Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked wi...2016-04-0522 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris :: Finger Strength Training Mini EpisodeNew Mini Episodes!
We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these episodes. This week, we decided to start with finger training, since it's such a popular topic.
Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular Joes like you and me. H...2016-03-2921 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for ClimbersAbout Neely Quinn
Neely is your host for the podcast every week, but she's also a practicing nutrition therapist, and has been since about 2007. She's helped hundreds of people lose weight and get closer to optimal health. She takes an individualized approach to nutrition, and in this podcast episode she tackles weight loss for climbers and how to approach it properly (if you need to approach it at all).
Weight Loss for Climbers
Calories
Carbs
Food Sensitivities
When to see a doctor
Overtraining
Want to work with Neely one-on-one?
Her nutrition coaching page...2016-03-0732 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods
About Tom Randall
Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible.
What We Talked About
His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses
How he works with clients
Training for crack climbing
Pinky crack drills
Free...2015-12-161h 17The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 037 :: Thomasina Pidgeon on Climbing V12 at Age 40
Podcast is on iTunes is HEREDirect Download: LINKDate: December 7th, 2015
About Thomasina Pidgeon
Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - one of the strongest Canadian female climbers, actually, having done over 40 boulders V11 to V12. She's also competed quite a bit, and been quite successful on national and international levels. She does this at the age of 40, all while living out of her van, which she's done since she was 19 years old, and while raising her 9 year-old daughter.
What We Talked About
Van life and being a m...2015-12-071h 08The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 035 :: Isabelle Faus on Sending V14About Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in South Africa recently, and has done several V13's, including Nuthin' but Sunshine in a day. She also just started sport climbing and did her first 5.14a the other day. She'll tell you all about her climbing, training, and diet in this episode.
What We Talked About
Her bouldering career highlights
How her coach as a...2015-11-181h 03The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 034 :: Justen Sjong on Improving Your Mental GameAbout Justen Sjong
Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the globe. He currently works out of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder and does online coaching via www.climbingsensei.com. He has a thing or two to say about climbers improving their mental game and becoming better climbers overall.
What We Talked About
The difference between a climbing coach and a climbing trainer
When to say...2015-11-111h 01The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training EfficientlyTrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes Date: November 4th, 2015
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About Will Anglin
Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and...2015-11-041h 13The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 032 :: Nathan Drolet (Average Joe Climber) Trains Smart and Climbs HardDate: October 5th, 2015
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About Nathan Drolet
We met Nathan Drolet in the Red River Gorge a couple years ago when his badass girlfriend, Natalie Hawley, was projecting 8 Ball while I was working on Snooker. We ran in...2015-10-051h 06The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 031 :: Ben Moon on Training and Climbing Through The DecadesDirect Download: LINKDate: August 20th, 2015
About Ben Moon
Ben Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climbing career. He's 49 years old and just sent 9a (5.14d) this year, after having put up the first of the same grade in 1990 ("Hubble" in France). He's bouldered up to V14, and he does all this while running a successful climbing company called Moon Climbing and raising a child with his wife. He also created the classic Moon Board and the Moon Fingerboard, designed for the stronger, more massochistic among us.
I wanted t...2015-08-2058 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 030 :: Jon Cardwell on How He Climbs Hard Routes and BouldersDirect Download: LINKDate: August 12th, 2015
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About Jon Cardwell
Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder.
I've been hearing all about him crushing Rifle and the Fortress this year, so we sat down and talke...2015-08-121h 04The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 029 :: Climbing Trainer Adam Macke on MAT and Weight TrainingDate: July 29th, 2015
Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale!
Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats.
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About Adam Macke
Adam Macke (pronounced "Mackey") is a climbing trainer out of Chattanooga, TN. He works with people out of High Point Climbing and Fitness, which is a pretty new gym downtown. Adam has been personal training people since th...2015-07-291h 07The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 028 :: Neely Quinn on Nutrition for Climbers
About Neely Quinn
I (Neely Quinn) am a Nutrition Therapist and a 5.13 rock climber, owner of TrainingBeta, and someone who's obsessed over food, health, and climbing performance since 1999. I've helped thousands of people find their optimal diet, lose weight, and be the best athlete they can be. My nutrition work lives at www.neelyquinn.com.
As the host of the TrainingBeta podcast, I'm generally not the one in the spotlight in these interviews, but in this episode, I put my hide on the line and told you my opinions and advice about nutrition fo...2015-07-2451 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 027 :: Kevin Jorgeson Talks about The Dawn Wall and HighballsDate: July 9th, 2015
About Kevin Jorgeson
After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I'm not joking about that). Before the Dawn Wall, I knew Kevin for his highball bouldering; I knew him as a bold, strong-headed climber. After his send of Ambrosia (55-ft V11 in Bishop), he wanted something different to challenge him, so he called up Tommy Caldwell and asked him if he needed a partner for the Dawn Wall.
What We Talked About
In this conversation, Kevin t...2015-07-101h 11The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 023 :: Arno Ilgner on Overcoming Fear and Ego in ClimbingAbout Arno Ilgner
Arno Ilgner is known in the climbing community for his work helping people overcoming fears and be overall mentally stronger. He began climbing and quickly realized that the mental aspect of it was paramount to sending hard climbs. So he started studying up, and resonated with the Warrior's Way philosophy he found in the Carlo Castaneda books about Don Juan.
He started applying those tenets to climbing, and soon had an entire program built upon them. He now has books, clinics, and a dense blog devoted to helping you find peace, strength, a...2015-06-041h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 022: Bill Ramsey on Sending 14b at Age 54Date: May 27th, 2015
About Bill Ramsey
Bill Ramsey is a legend among climbers, having put up classic first ascents in the Red River Gorge years ago such as Omaha Beach (14a), Golden Boy (13b), and many others. He's 55 years old and he just sent his 3-year project at the Cathedral near St. George, UT, called "Golden for A Moment" (5.14b).
5.14b is about as hard as Bill has ever climbed, even in his 20's and 30's, so with such a huge accomplishment under his belt, I wanted to ask him some que...2015-05-281h 09The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding
About Alex Puccio
Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15.
She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain), she's climbed 7 V13's, and she's done all of this in the past year. Naturally, I wanted to know how she went from climbing V1...2015-05-211h 23The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 019 :: Eric Hörst on Training Methods for Adults and KidsAbout Eric Hörst
Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the first books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He's a 50-year old climber who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he's catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 boys are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14's by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named www.trainingforclimbing.com. He also writes r...2015-04-281h 14The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil, and Having A Career While Still Climbing HardDirect Download: LINKDate: March 30th, 2015
About Mike Doyle
Mike Doyle is a full time(+) computer programmer in his late 30's who crushes hard rock climbs. He's a Vegas local who has devoted the last several seasons to the route Necessary Evil (classic 5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, and finally sent it this past spring.
He's Canadian, and helped train Sean McColl back when he was training youth competition climbers and competing himself. He's climbed all over the world, having sent numerous 5.14's, all while ambitiously pursuing a career he l...2015-03-301h 09The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things TrainingI was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!
About Adam Ondra
He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him.
He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two...2015-02-181h 11The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and VeganismI got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff.
About Steph Davis
I can't really do her resumé justice, so I'm just going to let her Wikipedia page do it for me.
Stephanie "Steph" Davis (born 1973) is an American rock climber, BASE jumper and wingsuit flyer. She is one of the world's leading female climbers, having completed some of the hardest routes in the worl...2015-02-101h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with ProjectsIt's been FOREVER since I published a podcast episode and I'm really sorry for the inconsistency! My surgery and ensuing weirdness has had me away from working very much at all, but I'm hoping to start putting podcasts up again on a regular basis.
About Heather
Alright, so this episode is with my friend, Heather Weidner (nee Robinson), who is a badass sport and trad climber, having redpointed Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle this summer and Must'a Been High (5.13c R) in Eldorado Canyon in Colorado soon after.
She and her husband, Chris Weidner, are...2015-01-081h 03The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment
About Dr. Jared Vagy
I am so excited to put this podcast out! Holy crap. This is some MUCH NEEDED info for climbers of all kinds, and I really hope you listen to the whole thing. Jared Vagy is a PhD physical therapist who also happens to be a rock climber who's had a lot of injuries.
He works with athletes of all kinds and does special phone/skype and in-person assessments and sessions with climbers all over the world. He's written a book just for us on how to prevent and treat c...2014-11-011h 17The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight
About Alli Rainey
Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to 5.13d all over the world. She got into training for climbing a while back when she realized that she wasn't the greatest at steep powerful climbing (not much of that in Ten Sleep) and needed to train to improve.
Since then, she's studied the art and science of training for cl...2014-09-221h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 011 :: Dan Mirsky on Staying Strong on the Road, Training for Rifle, and Whether Running Helps Him Send
About Dan Mirsky
Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I've been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs in Rifle for as long as I've been climbing there. Last year we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were next door neighbors at Lago Linda's last year. And then a few months later he was kind enough to show us around The Cathedral/Wailing Wall, giving Seth and me encyclopedic beta on the entire crag from the ground. He chucked a couple laps on Golden (14b) that day right after sending Route of All Evil (14a...2014-08-271h 01
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP :: 010 Kris Peters on All Things Training, Team of 2, TrainingBeta, and Cardio
Hooray!! I finally did an interview with my favorite climbing trainer, Kris Peters! He's been working on TrainingBeta with us since basically the beginning, so I've had plenty of time to get to know and love this guy. He's kind of intimidating on the outside (big muscles, beard, hardass trainer), but he's a playful teddy bear on the inside.
What I've noticed is that while he jokes a lot with his clients, he takes their workouts and progress VERY seriously, and puts his all into their success. He takes on a lot in life, between...2014-08-061h 00The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm
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After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life.
Alex Johnson is an athlete on The North Face team, and she travels the world as a professional climber. She has some V12 ascents under her belt, she's a 2-time world cup winner and 5-time national champ. She's currently living in Las Vegas, but before th...2014-06-0257 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 007 :: Steve Bechtel on Training, Power Endurance, Running, Weight Loss, and More
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I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel, a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, honing in on individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Elemental Fitness, where he works with climbers and athletes of all kin...2014-05-1951 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 004: Angie Payne on V14, Failures, Rivals, Diet, Weight, and TrainingI met Angie Payne in 2004 when she first moved to Boulder. I worked at the Spot Bouldering Gym and she lived at the Spot Bouldering Gym. Not really, but she was there an awful lot. She was quiet, shy, sweet, and studious (she studied in the café where I "worked"). And obviously strong as hell.
She won three ABS National Championships and two PCA competitions during the 2003-2004 season. Over the next six years, Angie stood atop more than ten podiums as a top 3 finisher in bouldering competitions.
She doesn’t just crush inside, though — Angie...2014-03-2645 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP001 - A Talk with Carlo TraversiIn this episode of The TrainingBeta Podcast, I chat with pro climber Carlo Traversi about his successes, failures, training, the pressures of being a sponsored climber, and confidence. We also talk about...
The interesting circumstances that really got him started climbing
What goes through his head at comps
Does the pressure of being a sponsored climber get to him?
How he deals with fear in climbing
The fine line between confidence and arrogance, and how that plays into his climbing
Whether or not he’s ever had a coach
His advice for how to get better at climbing wi...2014-02-2346 min