Shows
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber ReturnsCharlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first mon...2024-02-192h 08
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over PerfectMelina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest competition she has ever done, how to use nerves to focus and thrive, training for Nationals, praising effort, her fueling strategy, gaining weight to be more powerful, Alex Johnson’s hype shirt, balancing training with fueling and mental health, choosing good over perfect, upcoming goals, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out AG1!2023-12-041h 40
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in RocklandsIt’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.Troy's Video:Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3Check out Crimpd!crimpd.com...2023-08-072h 09
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic SystemScott Johnston is a world-class coach who specializes in mountain endurance sports. This episode is a masterclass in training principles and is packed full of nuggets for climbers, including boulderers. We talked about why it’s a mistake to mimic top athletes, tips for balancing climbing with other sports, capacity vs. utilization, why to back off after a personal best, developing layers of endurance, the flaw with HRV, how to test your recovery before training, how to fail successfully, the future of alpinism and mountain running, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:yo...2023-05-153h 05
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free SoloingAlex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough. Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!The Nugget is on YouTube!youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" a...2023-05-011h 45
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human EnduranceTommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop...2022-10-191h 52
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to StruggleRyan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast The Struggle Climbing Show. We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, the role of chemistry in dating, how to deal with rejection, progressing from 11b to 12c in a year in his 40s, and biggest takeaways from interviewing top climbers on his podcast.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Petzl!...2022-08-152h 49
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam OndraMagnus Midtbø is a professional climber turned YouTuber from Norway. He has climbed 5.15b (9b), and his YouTube channel recently hit 1M subscribers. We talked about burning out on competitions and starting his YouTube career, the hard work behind success, favorite collaborations, go-to climbing workouts, and takeaways from training with Adam Ondra.Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!2022-06-201h 43
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering ExperienceJohn Sherman is a bouldering legend. His nickname “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) is where the “V” in our bouldering grade system came from. We sat down in a cave in Hueco Tanks and talked about what bouldering was like 30+ years ago, early climbing shoes, highballing before crash pads were invented, out-of-body experiences, and how some of the boulders got their provocative names.Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Availa...2022-02-282h 04
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing CompetitionsHans Florine has held the speed record on ‘The Nose’ on El Capitan 8 separate times. He has climbed the route 112 times, with 100+ people. He loves ‘The Nose’ so much, he wrote a book about it. We talked about winning the first International Speed Climbing Championships in 1991, his earliest ascents of El Cap, top 3 big wall efficiency tips, and the value of doing hard things.Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr dow...2022-02-142h 38
The Nugget Climbing PodcastFollow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements (Teaser)This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Allison Vest. We talked about her sends of ‘Throwin’ the Houlihan’ and ‘Rodeo Free Europe’ (both 5.14a) at the Wild Iris, how she trained her fingers for the savage monos, stories and laughs from her road trip with Alex Johnson, rapping, reciting the Periodic Table of Elements in under 45 seconds, music collaborations, and much more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 53:16.patreon.com/thenuggetcl2021-09-3015 min
The Nugget Climbing PodcastFollow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked about how she prepared for the trip, how she and Bree balanced their climbing objectives in Bishop, taking time off, how to ramp back up after hitting a peak performance, planting a garden, and becoming domesticated.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 43:03.
2021-05-2723 min
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off ChallengeThis is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2 Athletic Brewing: Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers Shop Athletic Brewing Beer Nuggets: 1:54 – L...2020-12-1446 min
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) — An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own SkinAlex Johnson is a two-time world cup gold medalist and has been climbing at a professional level for a decade. We talked about sieging ‘The Swarm’ V13, her effort to qualify for the Olympics, telling an honest story, failing publicly, lessons from coaching, coming out as LGBTQ, learning about self-love from her partner Bree, and becoming a role model. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-1 Athletic Brewing: Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers Shop Athletic Brewing...2020-12-071h 33