Shows
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 254: Best of 2024 (Including the Best of Patreon)This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription đfrictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG đthenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch đRhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code âNUGGETâ at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)2024-12-232h 32
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 241: Fundamentals â How to Train Your FingersFundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) â Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the power of consistency, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.KAYA:kayaclimb.com...2024-09-301h 41
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns â How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldnât Train Like GymnastsDr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldnât train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!Check out C4HP or Schedule an Appointment With Tyler!camp4humanperformance.co...2024-01-222h 44
The Nugget Climbing PodcastFollow-Up: Tyler Nelson â Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results heâs had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full vers...2023-01-0526 min
The Nugget Climbing PodcastFollow-Up: Tyler Nelson â How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tylerâs latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:16:59.patr...2022-01-2926 min
The Nugget Climbing PodcastFollow-Up: Steve Maisch â My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steveâs Go-To Training Exercises (Teaser)This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Maisch. We talked about the aerobic system and oxygen testing with Tyler Nelson, how to maintain climbing fitness during mountain biking season, my summer training program and my plan for the fall and winter, how Steve is preparing for his own trip to Hueco this winter, and we did a listener Q&A from our last episode.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:45:31.2021-09-0942 min
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 79: Tyler Nelson â A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut EatingDr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes:Â Â thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelsonNuggets:2:18 â Doughnuts and wiffle ball6:08 â Overview of the conversation, and Tylerâs dad2021-07-262h 01
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) â Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off ChallengeThis is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2  Athletic Brewing:  Promo Code: âNUGGET25â for 25% off all orders for new customers  Shop Athletic Brewing Beer  Nuggets:  1:54 â L...2020-12-1446 min
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) â An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own SkinAlex Johnson is a two-time world cup gold medalist and has been climbing at a professional level for a decade. We talked about sieging âThe Swarmâ V13, her effort to qualify for the Olympics, telling an honest story, failing publicly, lessons from coaching, coming out as LGBTQ, learning about self-love from her partner Bree, and becoming a role model.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-1  Athletic Brewing:  Promo Code: âNUGGET25â for 25% off all orders for new customers  Shop Athletic Brewing...2020-12-071h 33
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 38: Solomon Barth â Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)Solomon Barth is a Stanford University graduate and software engineer. We talked about Solomonâs impressive two-week trip to Smith Rock, working with Alex Bridgewater to improve his footwork and bulletproof his fingers, training endurance using up-down-ups, veganism, working in tech, his desire to help make positive change in the world, and gunning for 5.15.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/solomon-barth  Nuggets:  2:29 â Solomonâs recent climbing trip, bad weather, and land hurricanes  3:49 â Back in the gym after COVID  5:11 â Solomo...2020-10-051h 26