Shows
The Podcast on alanarnette.com7 Summits in One Year: Podcast with Garrett MadisonAs we close out 2025, I caught up with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, for a rare moment while he was home in the Seattle area. Garrett summited all of the Seven Summits (Messner List) in 2025, plus had some interesting times on Cho Oyu, watched one of his teams struggle, like the others, on K2, and is actively guiding on Vinson. We discussed all this, including what to expect for Everest in 2026, with the more expensive permit fees, new requirements for Everest applicants from China, and proposals from Nepal.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything
2025-12-2452 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.com2025 Wrap Up & Talking Weather with Chris TomerMid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to touch on Everest.The 8000er season is chiefly over, and the true winter climbs have yet to begin in earnest. But soon, we will have activity in Antarctica with adventurers attempting full crossings, climbers going for Vinson, Tyree and maybe an unclimbed peak or two. Then, as we move towards the new year, the slopes of...
2025-12-1341 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2025: Podcast with Australians Bianca , 17, and Paul Adler on their Everest climb this springAustralians Bianca Adler, 17, and her dad, Paul Adler, 50, are back in Melbourne, Australia, after their recent Everest attempt. They were thwarted by strong winds and illness, but made a valuable attempt. Bianca's social posts have gone viral as she struggled to breathe upon returning to Camp 4 at the South Col after reaching 8163 meters on the 8848-meter peak. She climbed with Rinji Sherpa of the Makalu region.This podcast discusses Paul's Everest attempt and summit, Bianca's Ama Dablam attempt and summit and of course, Everest with the risks, decision-making, and emotions. I think you'll enjoy meeting this young...
2025-10-0450 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2025 Coverage Wrap: Season Summary-A Rocky SeasonThe summer 2025 Karakorum for the 8000-meter peaks is over, and what a season it was. There were summits, deaths, disappointments and survivals. Was it a “successful” season? I’ll leave that judgment to others—but honestly, it often felt like safety took a back seat to ambition. Summits:K2- 42 with two deathsBroad Peak: 0Gashbrum II: 0Gasherbrum I: 17Nanga Parbat: 25 with one death#K2025Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/24/k2-2025-coverage-wrap-a-rocky-season/
2025-08-2521 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2025 Coverage: Risk Taking Case StudyWith teams still hoping to summit, popular American climber Ryan Mitchell, Phurba Sherpa, Terray Sylvester, Madison Mountaineering lead guide, and several other Sherpas ended their expedition after climbing to Camp 1. Terray felt the rockfall was too dangerous to continue despite several teams already higher on the mountain, hoping to summit on August 11.Only a few teams remain on the mountain, each with a few climbers, including a few independent ones foregoing supplemental oxygen and HAP/Sherpa support like Czech climbers Jan Polacek, Lenka Polackova, and Pakistani Sohail Sakhi. French climber Charles Page, guided by Vinajak Malla, was last reported at 7661 m/25,134 f...
2025-08-1014 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2025 Coverage: Weather Stalls Plans, or Not?Signs of trouble on K2 and Broad Peak. First is the weather. There have been more high winds and heavy snowfall, preventing the establishment of Camp 3 on K2 and keeping the Broad Peak climbers below Camp 3. And the other concern is the lack of cooperation among the teams, as noted by Polish climber, Lukas Supergan: "... This could be achieved by a large, combined team from agencies and independent climbers working together. However, such cooperation is completely lacking. Leaders keep their plans secret."Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/25/k2-2025...
2025-07-2608 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2025 Coverage: Death, Summits & ProgressSummits! We have summits in the Karakoram on Sunday, July 20, 2025. Also, climbers are acclimatizing at Camp 3 on BP, and most teams seem focused on an upcoming summit window around the end of July. Conditions are finally improving in the Karakoram after days of high temperatures, winds, and even snow and rain. One issue is that crows are eating food left at high camps! Tragically, one climber died last week on K2 from rockfall. Also, improvements are made for locals and visitors trekking the Baltoro Glacier. #K2025Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything
2025-07-2008 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2025 Coverage: K2 2025: Coverage: Climbing in PerilTeams are finally progressing across the four northernmost 8000-meter peaks: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II. Multiple teams report reaching as high as Camp 3 on these peaks, thus setting an optimistic tone for summits this season. Although rockfall remains a clear and present danger, leaders feel more comfortable after recent snowfalls. However, climbers still need to be thoughtful and cautious about avalanche danger, as shown by the rescue of a stranded and injured Polish climber. Today, I discussed the conditions with Garrett Madison, the founder of Madison Mountaineering, who has a team on K2 for a...
2025-07-1528 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2025: Clibmers at Base CampTeams are arriving at K2 Base Camp, but communications are limited, so not much information is coming out. We know that conditions are harsh, with high temperatures and low snow in the lower mountains. Given the absence of snow, climbers are concerned about rockfall this year.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/03/k2-2025-coverage-teams-at-bc-and-trekking-first-summits-2/
2025-07-0305 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2025: Ryan Mitchell Prepares for K2NOTE: This Podcast has extensive pictures so best viewed instead of listened to.Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, has gained considerable recognition thanks to his impressive video documentation of his 2024 summit of Mt. Everest with Madison Mountaineering. Exciting news! He’s all set to leave for K2 on Saturday, June 21, 2025.You may recall that in December 2022, Ryan contacted me for guidance and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2023. He was new to climbing, so I advised him that while many companies would happily take his money to get...
2025-06-171h 51The Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2025 Season SummaryThe 2025 Everest expedition has come to a close, marked by strong winds, drones, challenging climbing, and innovative strategies. Along the way were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity.Not all was bad, and one climber stood out: a German alpinist, Anja Blacha, made a near-solo ascent (she summited the same day as 30 other people), unsupported, setting a record. This is something we often overlook in our fast-paced social media world. The overall summit count for both sides of Everest in 2025 is estimated to...
2025-06-1238 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2025: Weekend Update May 18–Summit, Summits and Preventable DeathsBlustery conditions stalled most summit attempts last week, but a few teams managed to reach the summit, bringing the total number of Everest summits to over 200. May 14th, 15th and 18th, 2025, were big days on Everest despite the strong winds on the first two. And today, May 18th, we saw more Nepal side summits and the first commercial team summit on the Tibetan side.Hundreds more are staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4. Meteorologists have told leaders to expect a decent weather window starting any day now. At l...
2025-05-1839 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2025–May 11 Weekend Update- Summits, Summits, SummitsSummit, Forest, summit! With decent weather, climbers took full advantage of summiting four of the 8000ers, including the first Everest summits, with more teams on their way this season. One person attempted to set a speed record on Everest. The fixed line is to the summit of Lhotse and the Nepalese and Tibetan sides of Everest. 8K Expeditions did an excellent job of being dedicated and patient with high winds. With 456 Everest and 107 Lhotse permits issued, look for summits daily as the winds allow. And, a narrative on climbing to the South Col and preparing for the...
2025-05-1119 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2025: Lhotse Summits, Everest Soon & AnticipationThe last few days of low winds have allowed the rope fixing teams to make excellent progress. The rope team from 8K Expeditions summited Lhotse this afternoon, May 8, 2025, marking the first summits of the year. A separate team from 8K will summit Everest tomorrow. This opens the season to the plethora of climbers already staged at Camp 2, just waiting for this event. The Tibetan rope-fixing team has reached 7900 meters or higher on the Tibetan side. I anticipate they will summit over the weekend.Also, a narrative on the anticipation of summiting. #everest2025 Climb...
2025-05-0812 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2025: Weekend Update May 4–Waiting on the RopesPoor weather is delaying getting the fixed ropes to Everest's summit on both sides but is looking better. The Nepal side Everest permits have reached 444, with more permits issued each day. EverestER has seen over 400 patients thus far. Some teams have completed their acclimatization protocols while others haven't started. An interesting season to be sure! Also a narrative on climbing From Camp 1 in the Western Cwm to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face.Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week what to expect next, and more posts...
2025-05-0430 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2025: April 20 Weekend Update–Base Camp SprawlThe 2025 season is well underway, and more teams arrive at Everest Base Camp each day. The Icefall Doctors have the fixed line to Camp 2, where 8K Expeditions will take over and fix the route to the summit. I expect them by early May. It's a tough job, to be sure. Also, a short narrative on the puja ceremony. This may go down as the season of stunts, pleasing those who have called Everest a circus for years. Game on! #everest2025 Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything...
2025-04-2020 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comAnnapurna 2025: Podcast with John Black on Sherpa DeathsAs I previously reported, two Sherpas lost their lives when struck by an avalanche on the 8000er, Annapurna, on April 7, 2025. Ngima Tashi and Rima Rinje were swept into a deep crevasse between Camps 2 and 3. Four days later, Sherpas located their bodies using RECCO reflective technology after several helicopter searches proved unsuccessful. Retrieval was not attempted due to the bodies being inside a deep crevasse and the ongoing avalanche danger. In the Podcast are multiple still images from his climb, plus a video of the actual avalanche taken by John.Climb On!Alan
2025-04-1552 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2025: Weekend Update April 13–Icefall In, Summits and DeathsIt was a tough week in the Himalayas. We saw summits on two 8000ers, two Sherpas died, and the Icefall Doctors finally got the route to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Icefall. Also, it feels like the early predictions of a record and crowded Nepal side are coming true, with more permits issued at this time than last year. #everest2025 Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/13/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-icefall-in-summits-and-deaths/
2025-04-1316 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comPodcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 3–Mont BlancWelcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. Episode 1 is an introduction plus a brief update on the Autumn climbing activity in Nepal and Tibet. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the Seven Summits in detail. Today is episode 3, Mt. Blanc.
OK, I know what you are thinking, "Alan, Mont Blanc is not one of the Seven Summits!" Yeah, I know, but hear me out. On the border between France and Italy, Mt. Blanc stands at 15,771 feet or 4807 meters high, putting it between Kośc...
2024-10-0411 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Season Summary PodcastEverest 2024 might be remembered for summits, politics, deaths, ignored rules, near misses and disturbing allegations of sexual misconduct. It's difficult to put all this in a headline, but I believe the Everest guiding industry is at a Rubicon - a point of no return.
Not to be lost in this mix is the joy and satisfaction felt by hundreds of summiteers. They worked and trained diligently to celebrate standing on the top of the world for only a few minutes. It's funny how you can work so long for a goal, and the moment is over in...
2024-06-0636 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Weekend Update Podcast May 25The week’s activity on Everest revealed significant issues for climbers. While there were hundreds of summits and several deaths, it wasn’t pretty. A route collapse at the Hillary Step could be the canary in the coal mine of Everest. Some Tibet-side teams summited. #everest2024
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/25/everest-2024-weekend-update-may-25-season-nears-the-end-with-summits-and-death/
2024-05-2633 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comPodcast: Alan Remembers his Everest Summit on May 21, 2011Taking some personal liberty during this Everest 2024 season coverage, I want to share my 2011 Everest summit with an overview, narrative and Podcast. I hope you enjoy it. #everest2024https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/21/everest-2024-alan-remembers-his-2011-summit/
2024-05-2214 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Weekend Update May 18 PodcastThe week started well, but when the winds picked up, as forecasted, teams took risky chances that turned deadly. Now, with a better forecast, hundreds of climbers are positioned to summit over the next few days. Tibet-side teams are in place and looking at summit plans.
This podcast has the weekend update plus a short narrative on the route between the Balcony and Everest's South Summit. #everest2024
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/18/everest-2024-weekend-update-may-18-windy-summits-and-death/
2024-05-1819 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 16–Home and The EndThe final chapters of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, Part 15, drop today with chapters 49 and 56. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 16, our protagonist, Harper wrapped her arms around Claudia, watching the helicopter disappear over the top lip of the Khumbu Icefall...
2024-05-1109 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 15Part 15 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 46, 47, and 48. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 15, our protagonist, Harper along with Mingma, took a few more steps towards a snow bench and the...
2024-05-0830 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 14Part 14 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 43, 44, and 45. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 14, our protagonist, Harper, is on her summit push with Mingma, her personal Sherpa. Dawa checks in on...
2024-05-0632 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 13Part 13 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 39, 40, and 41. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a FICTIONAL team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 13, our protagonist, Harper, experiences climbing above Camp 3 for the first time. She moved in lock-step behind Mingma, w...
2024-05-0325 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 12–Summit Plan for the TeamPart 12 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 37, 38, and 38. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a FICTIONAL team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 12, our protagonist, Harper was confident and ready to get going. Sitting around base camp, even with the...
2024-04-3018 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 11Part 11 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 33, 34, 35 and 36. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 11, our protagonist, Harper, gets excited as Guide John Paul tells the team, "Good news, everyone. The first commercial team summited last night. The...
2024-04-2422 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 10Part 10 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 31 and 32.
I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 10, our protagonist, Harper, takes the Lhotse Face, " Wanting to pass another climber, Harper makes eye contact with him. No words were spok...
2024-04-2218 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 9Part 9 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 28, 29 and 30. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 9, our protagonist, Harper, and the team discuss what day they should target for their Everest summit, "Claudia...
2024-04-2212 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Weekend Update April 21This is the late April Everest 2024 Weekend Update. The headlines are significantly more positive than last weekend: Permits are a bit higher, which is good for the local economy but not so good for the mountain. The fixed ropes, aka the route, are all the way to Camp 2, thus opening the path for Sherpas to establish the upper camps and for clients to begin acclimatizing. #everest2024
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/21/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-21-route-to-c2-permits-catch-up/
2024-04-2114 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 8Part 8 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 25, 26 and 27. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 8, our protagonist, Harper, and the team arrive at Camp 2 to continue acclimatization. The Mt. Everest Guides lead...
2024-04-1922 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 7Part 7 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 22, 23 and 24. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 7, our protagonist, Harper, and the team climb through the Icefall and into the Western Cwm. The team's oldest member, Jim, is struggling. “Any advice?”...
2024-04-1824 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 6Part 6 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 17, 18 and 19. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, makes her first trip into the Khumbu Icefall. She was nervous, following Moingma, her...
2024-04-1625 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 5Part 5 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 14, 15 and 16. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, now at Everest Base Camp, is enjoying the smells from home as she unpacked her duffle when she is suddenly...
2024-04-1519 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Weekend Update April 14Welcome to the Everest 2024 Weekend Update in mid-April. This week's headlines are a bit concerning.
The fixed line that should already be at Camp 2 is only halfway through the Icefall. I'm not sure this is bad news for climbers, but Everest permits lag significantly from 2023, down 34%.
However, we saw the first 8000er summits this past week, with many more to come. Base Camp at Everest is filling up. Trekkers are on the move, and mountains are seeing summits. Hello, spring 2024. #everest2024
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
2024-04-1422 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 4Part 4 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, covers chapters 11, 12 and 13. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, visits a Monastery and observes the monks during their daily prayers, "Without a cue, the drumbeat began. One of the senior Monks started his c...
2024-04-1321 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comPodcast Interview with Will Cockrell on his new book Everest IncIn 2024, Everest has become completely commercialized. Shock, right? Well, Will Cockrell's new book, Everest, Inc: The Renegades and Rogues Who Built an Industry at the Top of the World, tells us how it happened. If you love Everest, despise it or don't really care, this book has something for everyone.
In this fascinating read, Will did extensive research and uses quotes from original interviews with more than a hundred Western and Sherpa climbers, clients, writers, filmmakers, and even a Hollywood actor; the voices of the people who have made the mountain what it is today.
...
2024-04-121h 14The Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast–Part 3Part 3 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 8, 9 and 10. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 3, our protagonist, Harper, sees Everest from the Everest View Hotel just above Namache Bazaar: "Harper stopped. They al...
2024-04-1122 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast–Part 1Welcome to the kick-off of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series during the Everest 2024 climbing season. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, I'll read an updated version of the story a couple of times a week for the next two months. Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home, trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push. The story's protagonist, Harper, sets the tone for the story when she tells her husband, Marc, "Honey, I'm going to climb Everest." #everest2024
Climb On!
Alan
2024-04-0822 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024 Coverage: Weekend Update April 7Welcome to the Everest 2024 Weekend Update. The Everest spring season is on track. Hundreds of people are advancing towards Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side of the Mountain. The Tibet side remains quiet, as teams will not arrive for at least another week. There are a few snags here and there, but nothing serious at this point. #everest2024https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/07/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-7-climbers-on-the-trek/
Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything
2024-04-0724 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Weekend Update April 1: Season Underway, Lost LegendsIf it's April, it must be time for Everest. The Icefall Doctors are hard at work. Climbers and trekkers are making their way through the Khumbu or driving from Lhasa. Shepars and base camp crews are building tent platforms and preparing their spots for the teams. Yaks and mules are meandering ever higher, loaded with supplies. Katmandu is filled with tourists and visitors, boosting the local economy. Hang on, everyone. It's time. #everest2024https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/03/31/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-1-season-underway-lost-legends/
Climb On!!
Alan
Memories are Everything
2024-03-3117 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024: Interview with Garrett Madison on his "Aconcagua Ambush" and the Upcoming Everest SeasonWe are getting closer to #Everest2024, and there are some new rules Nepal is proposing. In this interview with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, we meet Garrett and how he started his company.
We also discuss his recent “Aconcagua Ambush,” where he and his client summited the highest peak in South America, spending only one night on the mountain and using an experimental oxygen system that has promised other high peaks.
Also, his thoughts on Nepal’s plan to require all climbers to use WAG bags to remove solid human waste from Everest high camps...
2024-02-1949 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2024 - Ryan Mitchell on how an 19 yo can afford to climb EverestHow can a 19-year-old can afford to climb Everest? Well, Ryan Mitchell, 19, living in central Massachusetts, explains how in this podcast.
Ryan, a Summit Coach client, contacted me about a year ago, wanting advice and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2022. He had little to no experience, so while I told him there were many companies who would take his money and have him on Everest, the best approach would be to wait at least a year and gain the skills and experience it would take to make a safe attempt on the...
2023-12-0952 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comPodcast with Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow: Records, Rescues, Deaths and MoreThe past few months have been difficult in the mountaineering world. We have seen climbs on many 800ers that turned out tragically: Mohammed Hassan on K2, Anna Gutu, Migmar Sherpa, American Gina Marie Rzucidlo and Tenjen Lama Sherpa on Shishapangma. A few dramatic rescues and a never-ending quest for records.
I turned to long-time alpinist Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, to try and make sense of what's going on, what can be done to prevent these seemingly preventable deaths and if the pursuit of records is worth the risks. We also discuss his return t...
2023-10-1051 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comPodcast with Jost Kobusch's Winter 2023/24 Everest West Ridge AttemptI caught up with German Alpinist Jost Kobusch, who now lives in Chamonix, France, to discuss his upcoming 2023/24 winter, no O's, solo attempt of Everest's West Ridge. No climber has reached the summit using this route and precise style. He will begin climbing on December 22, 2023, the beginning of the astronomical calendar winter. He will complete his climb no later than February 28, 2024.
In 2019, Jost reached his high point of 7,329-meters/23,750-feet. His second attempt in the winter of 2021/22 ended much lower, around 6300 meters/20,669 feet, when the jet stream moved over Everest bringing hurricane-strength winds to the area.
So he returns...
2023-09-1447 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comInterview with Kristin Harila All 8000ers in 3 months and Muhammad Hassan’s Death on K2Norwegian Kristin Harila, 37, Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa summited all fourteen 8000ers in three months and 1 day (92 days.) The first was Shishapangma on April 26, 2023, and the last K2 on July 27, 2023. In 2022, Harila summited twelve of the fourteen, but China refused them entry into Tibet to attempt Shishapangma and Cho Oyu thus, she returned this year to complete her project.
She is no stranger to mountaineering. In 2021, she became the fastest woman to climb Everest and Lhotse in a record 12 hours. The 36-year-old is from Vadso/Norway and is a former cross-country skier. Today, she claims her profession as a r...
2023-09-071h 12The Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023 Season Summary and Coming HomeThe 2023 Everest spring season is over, with some records to take pride in and others to be avoided. If there were one word to summarize the season, it would be chaotic or perhaps deadly. This spring was the deadliest season in history on Everest.
Nepal issued a record 478 climbing permits to foreigners. Add in one and a half Sherpa supporting each foreigner; over 1,200 people pursued the summit this spring. Fears were rampant of a 2019 repeat with long lines and deaths. The lines never developed, thanks in part to colder weather that sent a higher number of climbers...
2023-06-0239 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023 Summit Moments and the DescentMonday, May 22nd, was a windy but good day for summits and records. About fifty more people summited, advancing the season total to close to 500. The season could end this week as winds will become too dangerous. In this Podcast, we have reached the summit, and I describe how it feels and then the descent to Camp 2.
Remember that you can see daily updates on my blog at https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/
Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything
2023-05-2332 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023: Everest 2023:166+ Summits, 6th Death and Carlos Soria, Rescue & Climbing to the SummitWith masses of climbers on Everest, today we saw over 100 more summits bringing the season total to over 166 and the sixth death of the season. There were many "records" set as well, some in the beholder's eye. Several hundred remain to attempt the summit.
Narrative on climbing to the summit
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
2023-05-1723 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023: First Commercial Summits and Climbing to the South ColIt looks like ten people summited Everest in the leading part of the first wave. Scores, if not over a hundred, are staged at Camp 2, waiting for the South Col camps to be fully stocked. The weather continues to hold with good conditions and winds under the 30 mph threshold through May 20. Many teams are eyeing Wednesday, May 17th for their summit day. Look for summits each day this week.
Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything
2023-05-1424 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023 Weekend Update May 12As forecasted, the winds have let up, allowing the rope team to continue fixing it to the summit. This will open the mountain for scores for clients with one or more Sherpas in support. Look for a busy first wave of summits over the next few days.
The question is, how many people will be on their summit push this weekend? Almost every team has completed their acclimatization programs and is ready. The lack of fixed rope to the summit and high winds above Camp 3 has stalled everyone, frustrating some team leaders. Some forecasts have acceptable summit...
2023-05-1116 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023: Interview with Garrett Madison from Everest Base CampThe #Everest2023 season is taking shape as teams continue to acclimatize with rotations to Camps 1 and 2, with some tagging Camp 3 at 23,000 feet or 7,000 meters. In this interview with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp, we discuss the record permits, his acclimatization strategy, addressing the human waste problem, the long route through the Icefall and their attempt to summit the difficult and highly technical Nuptse.
Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything
2023-05-0214 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023: Weekend Update April 30Everest teams are doing the usual acclimatization rotations but are seeing heavy attrition that will ease crowding concerns. There's a new level of base camp luxuries that might be beyond the pale for some purists. Heavy snow is forecasted on Dhaulagiri, stalling movement there. Overall, it's been a low-drama year, thankfully.
In this episode, I explore controversy on Shishapangma, exploding luxuries at Everest base Camp, and a narrative about the Western Cwm between Camps 1 and 2 on Everest.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
2023-04-3027 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023: Weekend Update April 23Weekend Update
While teams are as high as Camp 2 on Everest, most of the attention was on Annapurna, where one climber died, and two other climbers were miraculously rescued. Heavy snow hit Everest, but climbing continued. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits topped 400, a record for the Nepal side. The fixed rope was set to the South Col. I expect it reach the summit late next week.
I cover a few topics in this update:
- Noel Hanna death on Annapurna
2023-04-2323 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023 Weekend Update April 16This was a week of highs and lows across the Himalayas. On Everest, three Sherpas lost their lives in the Icefall. The season's first 8000 meters summits occurred on Saturday, April 16, on Annapurna. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits top 300. And a description of the first days at base camp and the puja.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
2023-04-1621 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023: Interview with Lukas Furtenbach: The Evolution of Oxygen Delivery on EverestLukas Furtenbach, a major mountaineering expedition guide company and is now a top supplier of supplemental oxygen systems to all teams climbing Everest. He partnered with Neil Greenwood of Summit Oxygen to create Everest Oxygen focusing on supplying supplemental oxygen to the mountaineering industry.
His Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures offer global climbs, including most of the 8000-meter mountains, the Seven Summits, the Volcanic Seven Summits, and Ski Mountaineering. However, they have made a name for themselves with their "Flash Expeditions," which takes only three weeks to climb Everest, compared to the classic style, which takes six to eight wee...
2023-03-2858 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2023: Interview with Scott Lehmann and Shayna Unger, Deaf ClimbersScott Lehmann and Shayna Unger, are aiming to be the first American deaf couple and, to their knowledge, the second and third deaf climbers to summit Mount Everest. Also, they are trying to become the first deaf couple to compete the Seven Summits. Both were born, as they say, profoundly deaf, meaning they had no hearing at all. They live in the Washington, D.C., area and are educators and mountaineers. They summited Denali, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Ecuador’s Chimborazo and Cotopaxi, and Mont Blanc, plus Scott has all the US High Point.
A third-generation deaf person, Scott is...
2023-03-2131 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comVideo Interview with Jost Kobusch’s Solo, Winter 2023 Denali SummitGerman Alpinist Jost Kobusch became only the third person to complete a solo winter Denali Summit successfully. He summited on Sunday, February 19, 2023, around 3:00 am. I caught up with him at his home in Chamonix, France, only a few weeks after his summit. Jost style is to climb alone during a season that few other people would choose. He climbs completely unsupported and often on the most difficult routes. On Denali, he summited via the Messner Couloir.
We cover route, gear, weather, what he learned, and his plans for another Everest West Ridge climb in late 2023. Jost is d...
2023-03-1649 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comPodcast with Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry: Running from MakaluBecks Ferry is back in the Nepal Himalaya mountains 2023 for Makalu, but with a twist - she will climb the fifth highest peak at 27,825 feet/8481 meters without supplemental oxygen and then run the 225 miles back to Kathmandu!
In 2021, along with British Professional Mountain Guide Jon Gupta, they climbed on six peaks reaching the main summits of three.
Everest (Summit)
Makalu (reached 7500m)
Lhotse (Summit)
K2 (Summit)
Manaslu (Fore Summit ~8160m)
Dhaulagiri (reached 7817m)
We cover a range of topics, from how this mother of five children, ages 13 to 19, got into climbing to all the climbs...
2023-02-2830 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest2023: Welcome to the SeasonWelcome to the first Podcast for the Everest 2023 season.
In this podcast, I talk about what we can expdct this year, now with the Tibet side closed again.
I expect 2023 to be a big year for Everest-Nepal. With the COVID-19 pandemic letting up, Nepal is open. It expects many foreigners attracted by Nepali operators marketing low prices and requiring minimal climbing experience but providing tons of Sherpa support. I expect almost 1,000 total summits broken out by 400-450 foreigners from the Nepal side supported by 450-500 Sherpas. We can anticipate three to six deaths on the Ne...
2023-02-2515 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comManaslu 2022 and Taking Care of Our MountainsThe Manaslu 2022 season is moving nicely, with the first client summits for the season on Thursday, September 22, 2022. There are a record number of people there, with 400 foreigners with permits and an equal or greater r number of support climbers, so it's crowded. This means there is an opportunity for more trash, crowds, and poor practices.
In this podcast, I talk about my 2013 experience on Manaslu plus how we can take better care of our mountains.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
2022-09-2224 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comGoing for 8000er Record: Kristin Harila all 14 in Six MonthsA new trend in 8000-meter climbing is how many you can get in one trip and how fast. Norweigan Kristin Harila is on track to smash long-time records this year. Thus far, she has eleven of the fourteen, all with climbing Sherpas, Pasdawa Sherpa, and Dawa Ongju Sherpa, of 8K Expeditions. I had the opportunity to record this interview with her during a short respite back home in Norway.
The current record is 189 days between April 23 and October 29, 2019, by Nirmal Purja Pun Magar and is recognized by Guinness World Records. However, a study posted online notes it t...
2022-08-2356 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2022: No O's, Unsupported Summits on Broad Peak and K2 - Andreas Frydensberg and Eric GilbertsonK2 had a record year this 2022 summer. Most of the summits were by Sherpas or Pakistani climbers helping their paying clients, but a handful were the rare type: no supplemental oxygen, no Sherpa support, and no commercial team.
Danish climber Andreas Ritzau Frydensberg with American Eric Gilbertson summited Broad Peak on July 18th and K2 on July 28th. On his website, Country Highpoints, Eric describes their Broad Peak, and K2 climbs in detail. They climbed unsupported, using Pakastani Alpine Adventure Guides for base camp services. So they climbed with no on-mountain support - no Sherpas to set u...
2022-08-131h 12The Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2022 Weekend Update July 30, 2022 A Summer of SummitsAnd the summits keep going with many firsts, records, and races to the top thanks to this summer’s, and for that fact, this spring’s, unusually stable weather across the Himalayas. It’s not uncommon for climbers to have three, four, or even five, or more 8000er summits this year. Let’s run a few down with more to come before it’s all over.
Big Picture
The season is winding down. I think the action is over on Nanga Parbat. The snow conditions were getting too dangerous a couple of weeks ago, and several high...
2022-07-3117 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2022: Weekend Update July 24, 2022 - Summits, Summits, Summits!Well, the K2 climbers pulled it off. Congratulations to the 150++ who summited and especially to the Sherpas who fixed the lines to the summit. The weather cooperated, and there were limited problems, albeit with one death and one K2 climber is currently missing. We are approaching 200 K2 summits.
Big Picture Summits Continue, Missing K2 Climber
Several media outlets report that Canadian Richard Cartier, 61, is missing while descending from a rotation to lower Camp 4. He was last seen between C2 and C1 by teammates. A search is underway. They had mentioned using the Cesen route but we...
2022-07-2519 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comAdventure Consultants Guy Cotter - A New BeginningIf you follow mountaineering, Adventure Consultants is one of the names that evoke almost three decades of memories. Guy Cotter, who began running the company in the mid-1990s, has deftly led his team through years of climbs worldwide. But in 2020, COVID was too much, and Guy made the difficult decision to put AC into 'hibernation.' Now, in 2022, he is ready to resume operations, smaller, leaner, and with an increased focus on running high-quality expeditions with discerning clients.
In this interview, I talk with Guy about his decisions with AC over the past few years and...
2022-07-2334 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2022: Weekend Update July 16, 2022 - Summit Push DramaThis has been a ‘lay-low’ week with storms hitting the higher elevations of Pakistan’s 8000ers. Yet, there were thwarted attempts. Many teams are finalizing preparations for their summit pushes beginning soon in what could be very short weather windows, but the predicted conflict with so many people has begun.
Big Picture – The Summit Rush
With this odd statement, “We are not ready for summit push but we will give our best as always.” teams are leaving base camp for their summit pushes at least a week, if not two, earlier than in previous seasons. The leaders mu...
2022-07-1614 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 Summer 2022: Weekend Update July 10: Deaths, Rescues and SummitsIt's been a dramatic week in the Pakistani mountains. We saw summits on a couple of 8000ers, climbers in trouble, and tragically two deaths. The weather is currently keeping the K2 teams at base camp but look for a rush starting later this next week—all in all, a normal season thus far, despite the record number of climbers.
Big Picture - Will 2022 K2 be like Everest 2019?
As I've mentioned multiple times, Pakistan has taken a page out of Nepal's tourism book and issued permits to anyone and everyone this season. Some reports say 1,400, others cl...
2022-07-1117 min
The Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2022 Weekend Update July 2, 2022 Karakorum SummitsSeveral strong Sherpas from various Nepali operators fixed the ropes on Nanga Parbat over the past few days thus facilitating a handful of clients to reach the summit. In total, there were 18 summits consisting of six members supported by 12 Sherpas, a 1:2 ratio of support. Pakistan issued 100 (member with support) permits this season; thus, look for more activity on Nanga.
Big Picture
The 2022 summer season is moving along with few, if any, issues reported by the teams. Most are talking about getting the fixed ropes put in by their super-strong Sherpas to the low-medium altitude camps...
2022-07-0320 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comVideo Interview Wilco Van Rooijen: No O's Kanchenjunga 2022 Tough DecisionsWe sometimes hear about a climber who has to make a tough decision as we follow mountaineering each season. Usually, it involves weather moving in that might jeopardize the team's safety or rescuing a teammate. Well, this spring, my long-time friend, Wilco van Rooijen, 55, faced a difficult decision, but it involved staying true to his style.
The Dutch mountaineer cheated death in 2008 on K2, but we both lost a dear friend, Ger McDonnell, that year. Wilco, who always climbs without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support, had summited K2, Everest, plus many technical climbs in the Alps. He...
2022-05-3158 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022 Season Wrap-Up2022 brought even more stable weather windows than during the great Everest 2018. This May, a stalled high-pressure system made for horrendous temperatures in Northern India while paradoxically creating nearly ideal climbing conditions across much, but not all, of the Himalayas. The net result was nearly 650 people summiting from Everest's Nepal side and another 50 on the Tibet side.
Unlike previous seasons, this spring saw more experienced climbers resulting in fewer deaths, rescues, and an overall low drama environment. Despite this good news, there were periods of brutal weather and climbing conditions, and yes, there were rescues, close-calls, and, sadly, de...
2022-05-2934 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comAdrian Ballinger Record Makalu 2022 Ski DescentThe world's fifth-highest at 27,765 feet (8,463 meters), Makalu saw multiple successes this season. Still, on Monday, May 9, 2022, Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, texted me, "I summited today with Dorji Sonam and Pasang Sona(Alpenglow Sherpa). We fixed to the summit from where rope fixing ended by French couloir. And….I skied Makalu!!!!!! I just got back to ABC. First on top for the season. Alpenglow pride"
He walks through the climb, discussing how the Sherpas fixed the summit ropes, poor weather at times, or narrow windows of opportunity. I asked him to discuss his "ski technique" for those lis...
2022-05-2751 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022: Weekend Update May 23 - The Season That Won't EndThis Everest season is like a runny nose that won't stop. You blow hard, wipe it clean, and all of a sudden, there it goes again. Just as I thought base camp was empty, as well as the other 8000ers, people keep showing up at the South Col and summiting. I guess with winds so calm (relatively - there are still those moments) that leaders are demonstrating great patience and trust in the weather forecasters to let the route clear out before taking their peeps higher. And that's how it's supposed to be done.
Big Picture
...
2022-05-2213 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022- Chatting with Jim Davidson about Everest SummitsWhile we watch summit after summit on Everest 2022, I reached out to my long-time friend, mentor, and climbing partner, Jim Davidson, to take a trip down memory lane and talk about our Everest experiences.
We talk training, preparation, and being on Everest during the tragic 2015 earthquake, and of course, my summit in 2011 and Jim's in 2017. It's a fun, fast-paced conversation that I know you will enjoy.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
2022-05-141h 05The Podcast on alanarnette.comRescue and Frostbite on Annapurna 2022: Tim BogdanovThis is a special Podcast and YouTube interview with Tim Bogdanov, 37, who was rescued from Annapurna last month. He tells a chilling tale of getting lost and multiple mistakes he made during his no Os climb.
Tim has summits of Manaslu and Dhaulagiri plus over 30 6,000-meters peaks around the world. His style is to climb alone and without supplemental oxygen.
He summited Annapurna on April 28 alongside an Indian team that was climbing independently. Also on the summit, that day was Italian Alpinist Giampaolo Corona, who was climbing in a similar independent style.
They...
2022-05-0945 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022: Weekend Update May 8 - Ropes to the Summit!It was a busy week in the Himalayas with summits on multiple 8000ers, including Everest. On the Nepal side of the mountain, Kami Rita Sherpa led the rope team to the summit and at the same time extended his summit record to 26. Sadly, there were two more deaths of the season, one on Kangchenchunga and another on Everest. Still, thus far 2022 is a low-drama season. With the good weather emerging, the summit trolls will now allow everyone to make their attempts. Big Picture 2022 is turning out to be an unusual season but in a good way. On Thursday, I did...
2022-05-0818 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022- Talking Weather with Three ExpertsWith both sides of Everest seeing significant activity, let's pause and talk to three world-class weather experts about the current situation and what they see in store for May. Also, I ask them to predict the first day for a member to summit Everest.
The historical weather pattern on Everest has been a calm April, a rough beginning of May before calming again starting around May 15 for about two weeks. In this Podcast with Michael Fagen of Everest Weather, Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions, and Marc DeKeyser of weather4expeditions.com, they are seeing something very dif...
2022-05-0521 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022 Weekend Update May 1, 2022It's May Day on Everest and some teams are having a party, while others are focused on their acclimatization schedule, and some now eying the summit. But everyone needs to wait for the fixed ropes. The upper mountain may have some moderate winds that may delay the rope team. We saw summits on a few 8000ers but the conditions remain iffy. Still, thus far 2022 is a low-drama season.
Big Picture With so many climbers high on Everest, the news is scarce due to a lack of comms. Teams are doing their rotations on Everest to Camp 2 and som...
2022-05-0120 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest-2022--Weekend-Update-April-24--2022As we enter the last week of April, the climbing on Everest is in the full program. Climbers are all over the lower mountain from EBC to Camps 1 and 2. Sherpas are incredibly busy stocking camps. Meanwhile, on the other 8000ers, progress was stalled by weather, but still climbing underway on some others. All in all, it's a low-drama year thus far.
Big Picture
As of April 24, 2022, the Ministry of Tourism has issued 876 total climbing permits, with 302 for Everest, including 72 female climbers, or 23%. Since 1953, of the 4524 members, not Sherpas, to have summited, only 674 are female or 16%. The...
2022-04-2433 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022: How Fast Can you Climb Everest?Everest used to take a minimum of two months home to home. In 2019 Roxxane Vogel did it in two weeks. So what's changed and what's a reasonable time today? You can see the blog post with more details at https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/19/everest-2022-how-fast-can-you-climb-everest/
Climb On
Alan
Memories are Everything
2022-04-2117 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022: Weekend Update, April 17, 2022- First 8000ers Deaths and Puja at EBCActivity is strong at Everest Base Camp, with more still on the trek. The permits increased as expected this past week and will top out fairly soon. They still lag behind last year by over 100 for Everest. The fixed lines are now to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm, ready for more teams to arrive at EBC this week. We saw the first 8000er deaths of the 2022 Spring season this past week. #everest2022
Big Picture As of April 15, 2022, the Ministry of Tourism has issued 738 total climbing permits thus far, with 262 for Everest, with 56 female climbers. The United States rep...
2022-04-1738 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022 Weekend Update April 10, 2022 - First 8000er SummitsActivity is picking up with climbers getting closer to Everest Base Camp, plus many more have arrived in Kathmandu. The permits have increased as expected this past week but lag behind last year. Teams will arrive at EBC this upcoming week. We saw the first 8000er summits of the 2022 Spring season this past week. The Khumbu has changed dramatically over the past couple of decades. The teahouses have improved over the ones with poorly ventilated, dark, and cold rooms. Today, the newer ones have large windows, big tables seating entire teams, and excellent food and service. The sleeping rooms a...
2022-04-1027 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022 - The Moment I first Considered Climbing EverestTeams continue to arrive in Kathmandu from afar. Many are proudly posting pictures of receiving their Everest climbing permits, but as of today, the pace is way off what we saw only a few years ago or even last year. In this post, I talk about the first time I thought about climbing Everest, back in 2002.
Big Picture
By early April 2021 Nepal had issued 222 permits for 23 teams, but this year that number is 138 on 16 teams. It looks like Everest will get somewhat of a respite this season with less than 300 foreign climbers. And that is go...
2022-04-0610 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022: Weekend Update April 3, 2022Now that we are in April, the trekking and climbing season will get serious. Many teams have already arrived and are trekking. Several teams are acclimatizing on their 8000-meter peaks while the Icefall Doctors are constructing the route through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 2. Soon it will be time to climb!
\ In this podcast, I discuss teams arriving but go into detail on the time our climbers arrive in Kathmandu, flying to Lukla, the start of the trek to Everest Base Camp. I hope you enjoy it.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are E...
2022-04-0426 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2022: Weekend Update March 27 2022Welcome to Alan Arnette's first Everest 2022 Podcast. I introduce the season with an overview of how many people might be climbing this year, the impact of COVID and the Russian invasion of Ukraine on the number of foreign climbers, and more. I hope you enjoy it. #everest2022
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
2022-03-2719 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comInterview with Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry: Six 8000ers in Six MonthsI caught up with British climber, Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry to discuss her amazing 2021 where she climbed on six 8000-meter mountains. This British mother of five children ages 12 to 18, had limited high altitude experience before with summits of Island Peak and Ama Dablam, but deep inside she wanted to try the hard ones. Along with British Professional Mountain Guide, Jon Gupta, they started with Everest and Lhotse as a "warm-up' for K2 but overall climbed on six peaks reaching the main summits of three.
Everest (Summit) at 19:50
Lhotse (Summit) at 22:00
Makalu (reached 7500m)
K2 (Summit) at 25:05
Manaslu (Fore Summit ~8160...
2021-11-0158 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.com2021 Himalayan Climbs: Interview with Jon Gupta: Everest, K2, Manaslu Controversy, and moreI caught up with British climbing Guide, Jon Gupta of Mountain Expeditions to discuss his amazing 2021 where he guided mostly one client, fellow Brit Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry on six 8000-meter mountains. He also climbed a 7000er with a friend and is now on Ama Dablam. Overall he climbed (time the discussion starts in the video)
Everest (Summit) at 19:50
Lhotse (Summit) at 22:00
Makalu (reached 7500m)
K2 (Summit) at 25:05
Pobeda (reached 7200m)
Manaslu (Fore Summit ~8160m) at 40:00
Dhaulagiri (reached 7817m) at 36.09
Ama Dablam - TBD
We cover a range of topics from how he got into climbing, why he...
2021-10-2052 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comInterview with The First All Black American Team to Attempt Everest in 2022It was an honor to do this video interview with three of the nine members, seven male, and two female, of the Full Circle Everest team. They hope to make history as the first Black climbing team to attempt to summit Everest. As of late 2021, there have been 10,184 summits but only eight Black climbers have stood on the top.
According to the Himalayan Database, South African Sibusiso Vilane became the first Black to summit on May 26, 2003, and returned in 2005 to summit from the Tibet side, both times with UK operator with Jagged Globe. American Sophia Danenberg became...
2021-09-2144 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comInterview with Jost Kobusch's Winter 2021/22 Everest West Ridge AttemptI caught up with German Alpinist Jost Kobusch, who now lives in Chamonix, France to discuss his upcoming winter, no O's, solo attempt of Everest's West Ridge. This exact style and the route had never been attempted or accomplished.
In 2019, Jost tagged his high point at 7,329-meters/23,750-feet. He said before starting the expedition, he would be pleased to tag 8,000-meters so he got close. This time he is again targeting 8,000-meters and I hope he reaches the summit.
We cover a range of topics from how he got into climbing, what he learned from...
2021-09-0941 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2021 Summer Coverage: Season Wrap-Up and What's Next?In this episode I close out the summer climbing season in Pakistan's Karakorum area. Also I discuss what we can expect in the world of mountaineering over the next several months.
The summer Karakorum season is over, well, I think so. There are always a few surprises. The 48 summits on K2 were close but not a record. 2018 saw a record with 62 total summits, followed by 2004 with an estimated 51. This season saw two deaths, one on a new route on K2 and one on Broad Peak. Overall there were around 100 summits in the Karakorum.
With COVID...
2021-08-0519 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2021: Post Summit Interview with Garrett MadisonGarrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering has now summited K2 three times. Only one other person has more. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. He was the leader for the 21 person team who submitted on July 28, 2018, at approximately 6:07 AM PKT (local time)
We discussed his team summit plus the latest on finding the bodies of the 3 missing winter climbers. And an update on the West Ridge effort - it's not over.
In Garret's own words:
"Yest...
2021-07-3018 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2021 Summer Coverage: Death, Body Retrieval and Summit PushesIn this Podcast I cover the recent events in Pakistan's Northern Territories on K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I & II. Heavy snowfall and high winds have delayed progress on K2 but there have been summits on Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak along with the death of Mr. Kim Hong-Bin, 57. The bodies of winter K2 climbers Pakistani Ali Sadpara, Icelander John Snorri, and Chilean Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto who went missing were found between the Bottleneck and High Camp.
Over 50 climbers are expected to summit K2, barring any major problems over the next two days, July 27 and 28. I...
2021-07-2620 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2021 Summer Coverage: Interview with Garrett Madison from the KarakorumGarrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering is one of the few people on the planet to have summited K2 twice. He's hoping to get his third this 2021 summer. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan.
With the new 4G Cell tower in Concordia, Garret took the hour walk from K2 Base Camp to Broad Peak Base Camp to talk with me over Zoom about his expedition. We discussed their rotations to Camp 1 and 2, the snow conditions on the mountain, what h...
2021-07-1522 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2021: Season Halftime UpdateThe 2021 summer climbing season in Pakistan's Kararum Range is heating up as we approach mid-way through the season. Teams are making great progress with Camps set as high as 7,000-meters, C3 on K2 and Broad Peak. Also, we already have summits on Gasherbrum II by a French team who skied down. Then there was a guide who paraglided off Broad Peak around 6600-meters. So lots of activities I discuss in this episode plus I talk through the climb on K2 from Base Camp to Advanced base Camp, then Camp 1 and Camp 2 along with a lot of pictures of the...
2021-07-1221 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 - 2021: The Season BeginsThe summer season has begun in Pakistan's Karakoram range with climbers on K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I/II, and Nanga Parbat. The ropes have already reached C1 on K2 and climbers have slept at C1 on both Broad and GI. Due to some mixed signals from Pakistan authorities, many operators canceled their climbs this summer making for a relatively low number on the peaks a bit less than 200 across all five with K2 having the most at 88.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
www.alanarnette.com
2021-06-2816 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comK2 2021: Interview with Graham Zimmerman - West RidgeThis summer K2 will see a rare event, an attempt on the fully unclimbed West Ridge. Canadian Ian Welsted and American Graham Zimmerman will make an alpine attempt with no oxygen. While the route has been partially climbed three times, the final few hundred meters have never been completed for various reasons. They leave for Pakistan on June 17. After an extensive acclimatization program which may include climbing the 8000er Broad Peak, they hope to summit near the end of July.
Ian and Graham have a long impressive history of difficult technical climbs. Graham has climbed the 7000-meters pea...
2021-06-1040 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2021: Climbers Stand Down. Typhoon ApproachingThe good news is the jet stream is easing off Everest as it moves north, the bad news is a cyclone skirting the west coast of India is expected to turn right running perpendicular to the Himalayas bringing strong weather along with it. It could "flood the mountain" according to meteorologist Chris Tomer and Everest Weather's Michael Fagin. Chris has told his clients on Everest and Makalu to "stand down" and wait this event out. Cyclone TC01A aka Tauktae is predicted to bring heavy snow, perhaps two feet to Dhaulagiri, and strong winds to Makalu and Everest on M...
2021-05-1620 minThe Podcast on alanarnette.comEverest 2021 Podcast: Welcome to the Season Coverage from Alan ArnetteWelcome to Everest 2021 Podcast coverage. This is Alan Arnette and I'll be posting updates throughout the season and on each weekend with a summary of what's happened and what to look for. The fast paced podcasts are a great way of keeping up with the action if you can't get to my blog at https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
2021-03-2806 min