Shows
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Status, culture and garms - With W David Marx, Author (#108)🎙️ Dive into Tokyo's style revolution with author W. David Marx this week on our podcast! Uncover the fascinating tales behind "Ametora" and "Status and Culture." From the denim invasion in Japan to the ascent of Ivy fashion, we explore the intricacies of Japanese subcultures, dissect the dynamics of status, and ponder the clash between old money and new money aesthetics. Tune in for a riveting conversation that unveils the secrets of who bestows status and the challenges of boosting your own. 📚👖 #FashionRevolution #CulturalInsights #PodcastGemsYou can find W David Marx online on the web at www.neomarxisme.com, Twitte...
2023-12-011h 52
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Weaving songs - With Sam Goates of Woven In The Bone (#59)Embark on an enthralling journey as we delve into the world of Sam Goates, a seasoned textile designer turned solitary weaver in the quaint port of Buckie, North Scotland. Sam breathes life into a vintage Hattersley loom, weaving bespoke fabrics for clients worldwide.Join us in conversation as Sam shares tales of her time in Australia, the intricacies of non-Harris Tweed weaving, and the challenges of maintaining a vintage loom. From the joys and frustrations of employing family members to the perpetual battle against the clock, Sam unveils the realities of her craft.Inevitably, sustainability...
2023-11-271h 04
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The vintage lad - With Niklas Hoppe (#135)This week, join us on a captivating journey to Cologne, Germany, as we sit down with Niklas Hoppe, the embodiment of vintage flair known as Vintagebursche. From a 16-year-old metalhead to a sartorial connoisseur of 1920s fashion, Niklas unfolds his fascinating evolution.Delve into the realms of vintage recreation, role-playing, and Niklas's venture into writing a sewing book for crafting your own vintage garments. We explore the intriguing concept of "The Rules," dissecting their meaning and relevance. Plus, discover the expansive community that has rallied behind Niklas's work across various media platforms. Tune in for a riveting...
2023-11-241h 28
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The Nettle Dress - With Allan Brown (#134)This week, we embark on a journey to Brighton to talk to Allan Brown about his profound connection with nettles. Allan's unwavering commitment to crafting a garment from inception unfolded against the backdrop of his local woodlands, where the unassuming nettle became a transformative medium.Delicately harvesting and methodically drying the plants, the meticulous process of extracting fibres and skillfully spinning them into thread, culminating in the weaving of cloth and the creation of a dress — a testament to the resolute spirit of one man's quest.Allan's odyssey is now encapsulated in the cinematic portrayal, "Th...
2023-11-171h 54
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The level collective - With Mark Musgrave (#133)Get ready for an engaging chat with Mark Musgrave, the creative force behind the ethical micro-brand The Level Collective. They craft robust backpacks, purposeful clothing, and useful tools, blending old-world craftsmanship with a modern minimalist flair—all while championing environmental stewardship.Mark, a self-professed product design enthusiast, is an accidental entrepreneur juggling numbers while staying true to his design ethos. Collaborating with local artisans, he transforms visions into reality. Amid this, he shares the secret to his success: establishing boundaries for a harmonious work-life balance—a personally sustainable approach to making it all work.You can...
2023-11-101h 22
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The tale of Prickly Thistle - With Clare Campbell (#132)This week I'm heading back to Scotland for a chat with Clare Campbell of Prickly Thistle, a self-proclaimed rebel mill outside Inverness. From a background as a chartered accountant, Clare took a u-turn, or maybe a swerve, when she discovered a passion for the traditional tartan and from there decided to establish a mill, using ancient looms, with no clue at all about how to use them. We get into what it means to run an ethical and transparent business, getting off social media, going zero waste, what B Corp status means and how being a rebel can mean...
2023-11-031h 56
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The Happy Dresser - With Rebecca Smith (#131)This week, we're diving headfirst into the captivating world of clothing with Rebecca Smith, author of "The Happy Dresser"! Join us on a journey as we explore the profound significance of garments in our lives, unlock the cherished memories they hold, and unravel the compelling stories woven into our very fabrics. We talk about the impact of fashion on our well-being, peek inside the treasure troves of our wardrobes, and get into the pros and cons of crafting our very own couture. Is social media a platform for judgment or perhaps a sacred diary of self-expression? Naturally, sustainability gets...
2023-10-271h 31
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.From Accy with love - With Iain Trickett (#130)This week we head back to Accrington in Lancashire for a follow-up chat with Iain Trickett. We get to hear how an interest in vintage army clothing led to bringing a retired chap in Mexico back to the loom, how a high street brands cancelled order gets a new lease of life in Iain's ultimate jacket, how knocking on a door holding a pair of socks can lead to interesting things, and how tweed really is the technical fabric of the future. Oh, and much more.You can find Trickett on the web at trickett-england.co.uk...
2023-10-201h 37
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.From the isles comes the cloth - Harris Tweed with Lorna Macaulay and Rebecca Hutton (#40)Due to illness, this week sees a rerun about my favourite cloth, Harris Tweed! This weeks episode is all about Harris Tweed, a legend among cloths and arguably the most socially significant of fabrics. My guests this week are Lorna Macaulay and Rebecca Hutton from the Hebridean Islands. Lorna is CEO of the Harris Tweed Authority, promoters and protectors of the tweed, and Rebecca Hutton, an independent single-width weaver at Taobhtuath Tweeds. We talk about the history of weaving, life on the islands, how the actual Harris Tweed came to be, the significance of the Orb symbol and the...
2023-10-131h 15
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Tailoring academically - With Brita Hirsch of The Tailoring Academy (#129)Today's episode takes us to Macclesfield, where Brita Hirsch is celebrating 5 years since starting The Tailoring Academy. From an inconspicuous start upstairs at the local haberdashery shop to its current incarnation with 40 students from a wide range of nationalities and ages, both in-house and online. As per usual, the route that led there isn't straightforward and Brita is happy to share the story. Get ready for a heady mix of historical, industrial, esthetical, the Great Northern Cloth, research, collaborations and a little engineering.You can find Brita and The Tailoring Academy on Instagram as @tailoringacademy and on...
2023-09-291h 48
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The Guernsey ganzie - With Rachael Laine of Le Tricoteur (#128)Today we head to the small island of Guernsey to learn more about the legendary wool sweater often known as the "ganzie". Rachael Laine is the owner of Le Tricoteur, maker of guernseys on Guernsey and we gain insight into what exactly makes a ganzie, the historical nature of the garment, the stories of old, and how it fits into modern times. Oh, and how Rachael happened to buy her family company without realising her family had actually started it! And also, just what are the origins of the company name?You can find Le Tricoteur on...
2023-09-221h 20
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Woman grows jeans - With Justine Aldersey-Williams, The Wild Dyery (#127)Season premiere! This episode is about the epic task set by Justine Aldersey-Williams of The Wild Dyery and Northern England Fibreshed to create a pair of jeans from seed entirely in the UK. You might think this sounds simple enough, grow some fibres, dye, weave and sew, right? That's what Justine thought when starting out. Listen in to hear the twisty tale of learning many new skills, finding plenty of help, a fair few unexpected problems and what might be the most costly jeans in the UK. Â You can find Justine on Instagram as @thewilddyery and The W...
2023-09-151h 22
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The festive season finale - With Jon, Shaun & Nick (#126)Well, it's that time of the season again, when we call it a wrap, take a break and plot our movies. As usual, I'm joined by Shaun & Jon, well-known and popular voices from previous festive specials, and we have a friendly chat about what we're wearing, current males fashions, what we're into and out to, buying and selling, socks, pervy plastic jackets, collecting stuff, what makes shoes comfy, resoling, waxed jackets and whatnots. Like overhearing three guys having a conversation free of prying ears.Featuring Shaun Brown and Jon Fowler, aka These_Rough_Notes and HeavyJon on...
2023-07-142h 01
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The natural scent - With Rasa Maria Gundersen, Naturales Oslo (#125)Today we follow our nose and head to Oslo, Norway to chat with Rasa Maria Gundersen of Naturales Oslo about the world of scents. We enjoy a chat about her background, influences and experience, how she constructs scents, the difference between natural scents and the more commonly used synthetics, what scents mean to us on a fundamental level, and even what would be my preferred scent. And no, it's not damp wool!You can find Naturales on the web here and on Instagram as @naturales_oslo.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no...
2023-06-231h 27
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Fibre to fabric - With Mario Sierra of Mourne Textiles (#124)Today we head off to rural Northern Ireland to talk to Mario Sierra, third-generation weaver at the family-owned Mourne Textiles. While Ireland has long been known for its linen, Mario is concerned that after some parts of the linen industry were closed down around 30 years ago, the skills and technology to process flax are on the verge of being lost forever. This has led him to seek out remaining machinery for processing linen fibres and people that have the know-how and skills to operate them. To aid in this he is running a crowdfunding drive to start up a...
2023-06-161h 30
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Small business musings - With Niamh Carr and Gary Newbold (#123)Today I bring back Niamh Carr of NemCee and Gary Newbold of English Utopia for a catch-up on how they are getting on. The idea was to have an open and frank chat about aspects of the fashion business from the point of view of small brands, what makes a brand, what quality implies and how that impacts how you work, etc. Suffice it to say, rabbit holes were found and scurried into!You can find NeemCee on the web here and on Instagram as @_neemceeYou can find English Utopia on Instagram as @englishutopia...
2023-06-091h 54
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The Cabourn way - With Nigel Cabourn, designer (#122)It's been a long time coming, but this week finally sees iconic British designer Nigel Cabourn guest Garmology for a wide-ranging and openhearted chat about why he really got into fashion design, his inspirations and heroes, the ups and downs of life and business, his love of travelling, meeting people and collecting vintage garments, the collection that never happened, and being taught fitness the traditional way. Oh, and comparing his designs to Mr Potato Head?Warning: Nigel does swear occasionally and the sound quality is dodgy at times, but it does improve again.You can...
2023-05-191h 40
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Improving by mending - With Eva Kittelsen, mending acivist (#121)This week's guest is Eva Kittelsen, author and visible mending activist, sewing bee contestant, fashion and textile designer and entrepreneur. We talk about her starting out in the fashion industry, her experiences in fast fashion, how getting involved in ethical production changed things and how mending came to be so important, both as a way to repair clothes and as a way to reassemble life. You can find Eva on the web at www.myvisiblemend.no, on Instagram as @myvisiblemend.no and @evakittelsen, also on TikTok as @myvisiblemend.no, BuyMeACoffeee and on Facebook.Garmology is m...
2023-05-121h 34
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Going archival - With Dr Kat Jungnickel, Politics of Patents (#120)This week's guest is Dr Kat Jungnickel, sociologist (from Goldsmiths, University of London), cyclist, tweed enthusiast and keen investigator of historical clothing patents. We talk about how the popularity of 'safety' bicycles in Britain in the 1890s became a catalyst for the women's rights movement and led to sartorial inventions and patents for new forms of (convertible) cycle wear that switched from street wear to cycle wear. Kat and her team of sewing social scientists reconstruct many of the innovative solutions from the past and reflect on how these designs helped women lead active independent lives.You c...
2023-05-051h 14
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.A likeable cut of the jib - With Guy Hill, Dashing Tweeds (#119)This week's guest is Guy Hills, bon vivant and founder of Dashing Tweeds, makers of innovative tweed and dashing outfits thereof. We get into the joy of tailoring, menswear history, why tweed is a top technical fabric, old money fashion, tweed runs, why tailored tweed is the hard drug of garments and more. Oh, and what a true garmsman does when your wife demands you cover your cycling tweed with a reflective vest.You can find Dashing Tweeds on the web here and on Instagram as @dashingtweedsGarmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is...
2023-04-281h 47
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Get ahead with a hat - With Allon Zloof, Tom Smarte (#118)This week's guest is Allon Zloof, a fourth-generation hatmaker with the family-owned Tom Smarte. We talk about different styles, a bit of history, where hats are at today, changes in the hatmaking industry, how to select a hat to suit you, sizing, materials and maybe more importantly how to find the confidence to don a hat! You can find Tom Smarte on the web here and on Instagram as @tomsmarte.Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmology
2023-04-141h 24
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Off the main street - With Kelly Dawson and Scott Ogden, Dawson Denim (#117)Today we are off to the British seaside to meet Kelly Dawson and Scott Ogden of Dawson Denim, a small maker of quality jeans. We talk about how Kelly became increasingly disenchanted with her career in the garment industry, about Japanese denim, how offering free repairs brought media mentions, meeting through the vintage music scene and how their shared interest in nostalgia has informed their designs. Oh, Scott's erratic style transformations and his years living in 1966!You can find Dawdon Denim on the web at dawsondenim.com and on Instagram as @dawsondenim.Garmology is made...
2023-04-071h 28
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Design for repairability - With Rosanna Watson, Snowdonia Gear Repair (#116)In this episode, Rosanna Watson of Snowdonia Gear Repair drops in to talk about the boom in outdoor gear, designing for repairability, greenwashing in the outdoor industry, the problem with "sustainable" proofing, the balance between technical performance and durability, Goretex and synthetic fabric, why some like visible repairs and others don't and why you should start mending your clothes today. Oh, and a pro tip for one of the big things to look for when shopping for a new jacket. You can find Rosanna and Snowdonia Gear Repair on the web at snowdoniagearrepair.co.uk and on Inst...
2023-03-311h 33
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Wonderfully warm legs - With Diane and James Welstead of Olaf McTarn (#115)My guests today are Diane and James Welstead, veterans of the garment industry and entrepreneurs of well-based leg comfort, the Olaf McTarn. We talk about how the garment business has changed over the past decades, offshoring production, how textiles have changed, the joy of actually crafting things, the relevance of stories in marketing and even take a moment to consider the case for synthetic fabrics. PS: This is probably the most ASMR episode so far!You can find Olaf McTarn on the web at olafmctarn.com and on Instagram at @olafmctarn.Garmology is made by...
2023-03-241h 53
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Made by hand for feet - With Ruth Emily Davey of RED (#114)We're off to Wales this week to talk to Ruth Emily Davey about her life making shoes. We talk about how she quite unintentionally started as a shoemaker's apprentice, grew to love the craft, her mentor and friend Alan James Raddon, why we can't all wear the same type of shoes and what a community means for the craft. And what it's like to discover your unique and special invention is suddenly pirated and sold in a plastic version.You can find Ruth Emily Davey on the web at  ruthemilydavey.co.uk and on Instagram as @ruthemilydavey.
2023-03-171h 28
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The Anniversary AMA Episode - With Nick as the guest (#113)The week is an Ask Me Anything episode celebrating 10 years since the Well Dressed Dad blog started. The guest is your usual host, Nick Johannessen. With a wide range of reader-supplied questions, it's a rare opportunity for your regular host to get more than a few words in edge-wise and talk at length about tweed, sustainability, taking photos in the street, personal style, why the natural fabrics are the best, a fantasy custom garment, a definition of luxury, buying online and more. This week's guest host is Emma Johannessen.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid...
2023-03-132h 10
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Approaching Ivy - With Laura Arnold (Reapersower), digital content creator (#112)This week I'm visited by Laura Arnold, aka Reapersower, a digital content creator and menswear enthusiast from New York. We talk about how Laura has immersed herself in classic American menswear, taken on the Ivy, dressing for ourself instead of for social media, the difference between hoarding and cultivating a collection, what is actually vintage now and daring to be different.You can find Laura on Instagram as @reapersower and blog at reapersower.comGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship...
2023-03-101h 38
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Carrying on - With Alec Farmer of Trakke (#111)Alec Farmer of Glasgow-based backpack company Trakke guests Garmology today to talk about how he got started as a luggage designer, living in a self-made microhouse in a Scottish winter, how the early bags were artefacts of found materials, being socially and environmentally responsible, the importance of evolving the product, while at the same time repairing and recycling what has already been made. And just what do you do when a customer wants you to make a bag out of a kevlar sail?You can find Trakke on the web at trakke.co.uk and on Instagram...
2023-03-031h 19
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The natural way - With MalĂş ColorĂn of Talu (#110)Today I welcome MalĂş ColorĂn of Talu to Garmology. MalĂş is a natural dyer living in Ireland, though originally from Mexico. We have a grand natter about how she came to be working with textiles, the process of natural dyes, her passion for regenerative growing and starting the Irish chapter of Fibreshed. We also go down the deep rabbit hole of indigo and what "natural indigo" really is.You can find Talu on Instagram at @talu.earth, the Talu website, and additional links here.Fibreshed Ireland has their website here and Instagram as @fibreshed_ire...
2023-02-241h 19
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The Rebels Wardrobe - With Bryan "Denimstrummer" Szabo (#109)This week I sit down with Bryan Szabo, author of "The Rebel's Wardrobe" and instigator of the Indigo Invitational. We talk about who the rebels were, the items of clothing they became known for and why these garments became so important. We also give a crash course in denim fades, why this is meaning full and how there is now a year long international competition to determine who has the best wear on their jeans.  You can find Bryan on Instagram as @denimstrummer, also  @indigoinvitational and @denimhuntersThe Rebel's Wardrobe is available from Gestalten on th...
2023-02-172h 05
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Status, culture and garms - With W David Marx, Author (#108)🎙️ Dive into Tokyo's style revolution with author W. David Marx this week on our podcast! Uncover the fascinating tales behind "Ametora" and "Status and Culture." From the denim invasion in Japan to the ascent of Ivy fashion, we explore the intricacies of Japanese subcultures, dissect the dynamics of status, and ponder the clash between old money and new money aesthetics. Tune in for a riveting conversation that unveils the secrets of who bestows status and the challenges of boosting your own. 📚👖 #FashionRevolution #CulturalInsights #PodcastGemsYou can find W David Marx online on the web at www.neomarxisme.com, Twitte...
2023-02-101h 52
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The annual festive special! - With Shaun, Jon and Nick (#107)By popular demand, the festive special episode is back! Described variously as "like listening to three guys talk about clothes in a pub" and "clearly the most insightful and deep analytical discussion of the day", the reputation precedes this in-demand recording. This year the boys cover choice and controversial topics, such as bootcut jeans, institution core, buying vintage from Malaysia, shonky shoes for sale and how no one pays attention to our cute little outfits.Featuring Shaun Brown and Jon Fowler, aka These_Rough_Notes and HeavyJon on Instagram.Early reviews of this episode are...
2022-12-242h 02
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The dream of Loom-Land - With Daniel Harris of London Cloth CoThis week sees a return visit from Daniel Harris of the London Cloth co. Daniel is renowned throughout the world of weaving as a keen collector and restorer of old looms. In addition to being a staunch supporter of keeping the old ways alive, he also trains new weavers and travels far and wide helping to get old looms to run right. The reason for the return, other than to have a good natter about life as a loomsman (I totally made up this word), is that Daniels's dream of creating "Loom-Land" is finally coming to fruition, having bought...
2022-12-161h 00
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Fashion circularity - With Dr Lynn Wilson, Centre of Circular DesignWe're staying in Scotland for this weeks episode, with Dr Lynn Wilson, currently of the Centre of  Circular Design. Lynn has had an incredibly long and varied career in the clothing industry, including working in vocational art and textile training in a high-security prison, helping communities in Africa build a textile business, public policy and Zero Waste Scotland. There is mention of moths, and we may also agree to disagree on how great an idea the leasing of jeans actually is.You can find Lynn on the web at www.lynnwilson.co.uk and www.circulareconomywardrobe.co.u...
2022-10-141h 55
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Bleak with a sprinkle of joy - With Sofi Thanhauser, author of "Worn"This week my guest is Sofi Thanhauser, professor and author of the book "Worn - A people's history of clothing". We get into the history of the various fibres, the implications on society and the development of clothing technology through the ages. The evolution of our clothing has been a very mixed joy, depending on your position, so expect som insight you might not be aware of. Oh, and we hear about the Dumptique and thrifting Norwegian sweaters in Budapest?You can find Sofi's website and info about "Worn" on the web here.Garmology is...
2022-10-071h 21
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.So, two students started making spectacles - With Jamie Bartlett, Banton FrameworksToday's guest is Jamie Bartlett of Banton Frameworks, a small, independent maker of optical frames outside Glasgow in Scotland. Jamie tells the fascinating story of their bumpy start, making frames from random materials in a car, how they've since built the business frame by frame, collaborating with similarly minded brands and how rewarding it is to have loyal fans of their work. We also get a crash course in German hinges, varieties of acetate and why eyewear is an important part of our personal expression. You can find Banton Frameworks on the web here and on Instagram a...
2022-09-301h 21
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Still buying shoes in a world on fire - With Alec Leach, former editor of Highsnobiety (#102)This week's guest on the pod is Alec Leach, former editor of the product hype website Highsnobiety and author of the book "The world is on fire and we@re still buying shoes". We talk about how he got started in Highsnobiety and what the work there involved, how streetwear brands have changed the way brands market their goods and how tough it is to change the way we consume clothes. Oh, and how a luggage brand brashly proclaimed their handbag could save the planet.You can buy Alec@s book on his website at alecleach.com...
2022-09-231h 10
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.A slower focus - With Dr Aoife Long, journalistFor the first episode of season 5, and the milestone 100th episode, my guest is Aoife Long, a slow fashion writer from Ireland. Aoife is dedicated to seeking out the stories and craftspeople of her country, putting the spotlight on mainly small, independent makers with a conscious approach to their surroundings and what they produce. We get into the situation for Irish wool and how the old breeds are seeing a renaissance, the reality of Irish linen, how gold is not great, the need to share and more. You can find Aoife's newsletter at aoifelong.substack.com, the m...
2022-09-161h 24
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Getting Higgy with it - With Philippa Grogan of Eco-AgeIn the season finale of season 4, I'm visited by Philippa Grogan, sustainability consultant in Eco-Age, an agency for sustainable business strategy. Since graduating, Philly has been on a fascinating journey (literally) through the garment industry of Asia, before working in Eco-Age to help companies lower their impact on people and the planet. Our conversation covers the recent developments in the Higg MSI situation, fossil-based fashion, greenwashing and intentions to become sustainable, how recent vintage isn't all that sustainable, how easy it is to blame consumers and using celebrities to help bring focus on the issues at hand. It's not...
2022-07-221h 37
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.A fashion more circular - With Professor Becky Earley (#98)Professor Becky Earley guests Garmology this week to talk about making the industry of fashion more circular, and what circularity actually means. We cover topics such as how much we wear our clothes, the problems charity shops face, the pros and cons of user-to-user reselling, how the production of clothes has been steeply increasing and the interest from the garment industry in making in a better way, the ways materials need to change to enable recycling, how nothing can replace polyester and why garments workers can't just be paid a proper wage. And how it feels to have been...
2022-07-151h 24
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Real as rivets - With Joe Schindler of Joe and Co (#97)The magic school bus of Garmology stops today in rainy Manchester to take onboard Joe Schindler for a salty chat about denim, small-scale production, how to stumble and keep going in business, how being your own boss means working all hours and the value in making only stuff you really like yourself. Oh, and what customer segment actually bought those very expensive jeans?You can find Joe & Co on the web here and on Instagram as @joeandcodenimGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no...
2022-07-081h 00
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.We met knitters in run-down pubs - With Genevieve Sweeney, knitwear (#96)This week Genevieve Sweeney stops by to chat about the easy path of starting her knitwear brand. Or rather, how wanting to start making knitwear led her on a tour of discovery of discarded and obsolete machinery, meeting contacts in run-down pubs, locating expert knitters that had been put out to pasture, her husband becoming a trojan horse to get a foot inside the factory doors and be taken seriously. Oh, and how satisfying it is to succeed!You can find Genevieve Sweeney Knitwear on the web here and on Instagram as @genevievesweeneyGarmology is...
2022-07-011h 27
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture - With Alice Sherwood, author (#95)Today's guest is Alice Sherwood, author of the new book "Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture". We have a fascinating chat about the counterfeit goods and how brands are actually helping the fakers, storytelling in marketing, how almost all fashion design is an incremental process, influencer culture and how AI is making is both enabling the theft of information and helping catch the thieves at the same time. Oh, and who really invented the tuxedo, Yves St Laurent or Ralph Lauren?"Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture" is available from all usual sources, or direct...
2022-06-241h 34
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The last button maker in the land - With David Courtney, Courtney & Co (#94)This week's guest is David Courtney of Courtney & Co, arguably the last of the traditional button makers in the UK. I was keen to invite David for a chat about how he happened into what is a rather unusual business, requiring as it does both a plethora of machinery and some rather special source materials. Not to mention the skills and knowledge to make buttons actually happen! A challenge indeed, not least when customs officers get in touch to ask about the box of white stuff that's arrived from South America...You can find Courtney & Co on...
2022-06-171h 20
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Making good in an old factory - With James Eden, Private White VC (#93)When you find yourself having a crisis of career and decide that taking on a garment factory from 1853 in the heart of Manchester sounds like a great idea, you're clearly not faint of heart or work shy. James Eden visits the podcast to talk about how he came to start Private White VC, as a tribute to his heroic great grandfather, the difficulties in moving from being a maker for others to becoming a brand, the history of Manchester as the birthplace of the industrial revolution, the challenges of working in an old factory and making the very best...
2022-06-101h 22
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.A twisty tale of endurance - With Chris Hewitt, Hewitt Denims Mills (#92)Today's guest is Chris Hewitt. Chris started out in 2008 wanting to make a pair of sustainable jeans. He'd been dealing in vintage for a while and had a mate that had briefly worked in the fashion industry, so how hard could it be? Harder than he'd imagined, as it turned out. Tune in for the twisty tale of trying to find fabric, spending all your money on strange samples, having some denim woven in the UK and then trying to sleuth who actually wove this denim, striking deals over a mug of tea and a biscuit, and... This is...
2022-06-031h 31
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Keeping craft alive - With Tim Little of Grenson (#91)In this episode, I'm visited by Tim Little, owner of traditional shoemaker Grenson. We chat about how Tim initially planned to be an accountant, took a turn into marketing, found his passion for shoes while working for Adidas, and went on to own one of the grand old names of Northamptonshire shoe making. Topics include the need for considered progress, taking care of your staff, vegan leather and how difficult it is for traditional goods to stay relevant in modern times.You can find Tim Little and Grenson on the web at grenson.com and on Instagram...
2022-05-271h 34
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Mindful mending - With Molly Martin (#90)This week's guest is Molly Martin, author, illustrator and mender. Molly's book "The Art of Repair" is a wonderful combination of techniques and illustrated garment stories, and real garmology material. We chat about the historical necessity of repairing garments, how wartime and rationing made it important to be able to repair what you wore, the Japanese techniques of Sashiko and Boro, how visibly mending is a political act and how some brands are now teaching their customers to mend.You can find Molly on the web here and on Instagram as @molly.a.martinGarmology...
2022-05-201h 20
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The learning curve - With Becca and Ben of Pajotten (#89)Continuing down the path to the doors of small makers, today we find ourselves sharing time with Becca and Ben of Pajotten. Established in 2016 as a midlife change of pace and direction, Pajotten makes workwear-inspired garments one at a time, to order and size, building a loyal customer base along the way. We chat about their background and inspiration, the process of making and the joy of repeat customers. And get stuck in the odd rabbit-hole underway!You can find Pajotten on the web here, and on Instagram as @pajotten.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted...
2022-05-131h 50
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.True blue renew - With Janelle Hanna - White Weft (#88)This week Janelle of White Weft in London drops by to talk about her life in the denim industry as a designer, how she is now upcycling worn-out denim into new products, the joy of repairing broken jeans, how stretchy jeans and elastane are the banes of recycling denim, designing fits, how the industry is a greenwashing nightmare, oh, and how almost none of the indigo dye we adore is actually from natural indigo plants.You can find Janelle and White Weft on the web here and on Instagram as @white_weft.Garmology is researched...
2022-05-061h 26
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Slowly and properly made - With Niamh Carr of NemCee (#87)After graduating with a Masters's Degree in Fashion and Business, Niamh wanted to start her own company, based on her own principles, values and way of doing things. We talk about studying fashion, how the obvious path goes into fast fashion, the difference between making things quick and easy versus taking your time to do it properly, how a career in garment making could be an attractive route for young people and how even a small and conscious business needs to be viable in the long run. Oh, and how making a single style to order at a time...
2022-04-291h 36
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.From Hackney with love - With Barbara and Nick, A State of Nature (#86)Today's guests are Barbara and Nick, the due behind the small Hackney-based brand, A State of Nature. Heavily into the small-scale, well-crafted, detail-oriented, natural fabrics and direct sales school of business, building the business from the ground level with a focus on longevity and happy customers. We talk about the joys and frustrations and how coming from luxury fashion means setting high goals for your own crafted product.You can find A State of Nature on the web here and on Instagram as @a_state_of_natureGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid...
2022-04-221h 20
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Provably fit for purpose - With Martin Brooks of Shackleton (#85)When you start a brand based on your admiration for the last great hero of exploration, you want to make sure you live up to the legend. Martin Brooks of Shackleton guests to talk about his decades-long obsession with Ernest Shackleton and his Antarctic quest, his values and leadership, and the understated heroics and achievements. Oh, and how they are going about making functional outerwear to last a long time, inviting customers to experience extreme conditions and keeping the legend of Shackleton and his men alive.You can read more about Shackleton here.Garmology is...
2022-04-151h 24
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.It gets better with wear! - With Patrick Grant (#84)This week I have the pleasure of talking to someone I've enjoyed countless hours of seeing on tv, Patrick Grant. Known to many as one of the judges of The Great British Sewing Bee, Patrick has many more things going on, such as owning a traditional Savile Row tailor and a Lancashire garment factory. He's also working to revitalise manufacturing in the UK with Community Clothing, creating a community of makers to contribute to increasing jobs, keeping a stable production and encourage investments. Patrick talks passionately about quality and craftsmanship, sustainability and the importance of proper socks!...
2022-04-081h 02
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Influencers: Get rich or lie trying - With Symeon Brown, journalist (#83)Journalist Symeon Brown visits to talk about his new book about the world of influencers, "Get rich or lie trying". We cover the rise of the modern influencers, how social media has enabled new ways of guerilla marketing using young fans, the fashionable surgery and Brazilian butt lifts, the dropshipping and financial trader scams and at the end of the day, who is actually exploiting who?You can find Symeon on Instagram and Twitter and more on his Linktree.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There...
2022-04-0157 min
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.We are all cosplaying - With Holly Swinyard, author (#82)Holly Swinyard returns to talk about the history of cosplay and the old origins, how we've always been into dressing up, the potential mental benefits, making costumes, the golden ages of cinema, comics and Japanese manga and anime. There's even a mention of the cringeworthy "Tweedman" (regular visitors will recall this...).You can find Holly Swinyard on Instagram as @lilistprince and all relevant links on her LinkTree!Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the...
2022-03-251h 21
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Living in Tokyo - With Ian Haydock (#81)Following up on last week's Japanese theme, this week I'm joined by Ian Haydock, Lancashire born, Tokyo resident. We talk about his family history in the Lancashire textile industry, the joy of sifting through the Tokyo second-hand shops, especially finding forgotten British brands, how the ecosystem of vintage and secondhand garments works in Tokyo and the collector mentality.You can find Ian's wonderful photos of Tokyo on Instagram as @tofu_hed97Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are...
2022-03-181h 14
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.An obsession made in Japan - With Také Sato (#80)Today's guest is Takè Sato, former fashion editor of Smart magazine in Japan and fashion editor of Monocle magazine. Today Takè is based in London and works as a creative director and fashion stylist. He recently published "An obsession made in Japan", about the "happy victims", fashion victims, as documented by Kyoichi Tsuzuki. We talk about the Japanese otakus (aka obsessives), loyalty to fashion designers, why secondhand shopping in Tokyo is special, social media and influencers and subcultures.You can find Take on the web as takeharusato.com and on Instagram as @takeharu_satoGarmology is...
2022-03-111h 30
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Instagram as a field study - With Dr Joshua M Bluteau (#79)This week we venture down a more scientific route with Dr Joshua M Bluteau, aka @anthrodandy, and his field studies within menswear and social media. Adopting the persona of @antrodandy, he went deep into the field to study how we present ourselves on social media, what we might gain and lose from it, what it does to us and how he got to know tailors. You can find Joshua on Instagram as  @anthrodandyGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but yo...
2022-03-041h 32
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.We've been here a while - With Hillary Bacon of Cordings (#77)My guest today represents tradition, resilience and doing what you do well. Hillary Bacon is the marketing director of Cordings of Piccadilly, a clothing establishment that has been basically unchanged since 1839, although the world around has changed fundamentally. We talk about how Cordings started and those important first products, how society has evolved, appreciating that some things don't have to change, being able to replace your old with the same new, how Eric Clapton saw the window display and bought half the shop and keeping traditions alive.You can find Cordings of Piccadilly on the web here...
2022-02-181h 25
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.My life in vintage - With John Gluckow (#76)Today's episode is another insight into the world of vintage, courtesy of John Gluckow from New York. John got into the world of vintage sourcing and selling at a young age, moving on to working for Ralph Lauren, sourcing vintage for RRL, studying menswear and starting a vintage-inspired menswear brand in Japan. Some interesting tangents are taken, and we even got round to dating clothes from knowledge of zippers!You can find John Gluckon on Instagram as @johngluckow_ancientandmodern and @strongarmclothingandsupplyGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick...
2022-02-111h 43
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Dandyism documented - With Nathaniel "Natty" Adams (#75)In this episode, I take a trip down to Dandy Avenue with my guest Nathanial "Natty" Adams, journalist, author, suit designer and gentleman of taste. Natty is the author of the acclaimed books "We are dandy" and "I am Dandy", documenting distinctive gentlemen across the world, with photos by Rose Callahan. We discuss what clothing can mean, the reasoning and purpose of dressing differently, subcultural styles, the heady days of #menswear, convalescent robes and more.Find Natty on the web here and on Instagram as @nattyadamsGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for...
2022-02-041h 40
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Decoding the industry of fashion - With Amanda "Clotheshorse" McCarty (#74)Today we swing back to the business of fashion and my guest is Amanda Lee McCarty, producer of the Clotheshorse podcast and Instagram. With her own experience in the business to draw on, Amanda goes deep into the world of decoding and demystifying the world of fashion, both fast and slow. We cover a wide range of topics in our chat and also call out many of the moves the fast fashion companies use to entice us into consumerism.You can find Amanda's Clotheshorse podcast on all the usual apps and streaming services, on the web at...
2022-01-281h 21
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Three garmsmen return - With Shaun, Jon and Nick (#73)By popular demand, the garmsmen gather again for the now traditional Yuletide festive episode. Shaun and Jon join Nick for a wide-ranging chat about men's (lack of) fashion, bungled costumes in TV drama, finding rare tweed in Russia, Jons obsession with leathergoods, Shaun's obsession with comfy shoes, when a brand loses its way, what real farmers vs faux country gents wear and what is designer clothes anyway? Described by Gentleman's Quarterly as "A laidback and comfortably paced chat perfect for accompanying the preparation of sprouts".You can find Shaun on Instagram as @these_rough_notes and Jon...
2021-12-242h 00
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.We need to talk about wool - With Tone SkĂĄrdal Tobiasson, Journalist (#72)Today Norwegian journalist and sustainable fashion advocate Tone SkĂĄrdal Tobiasson guests the pod to talk about wool, other fibres, the issue at hand and the initiatives pointing forward. Tone's career has seen her quite dramatically change sides of the fashion table, going from being a fashion magazine editor to being one of the countries most vocal critics of the industry. We start out talking mainly about how great wool is, then we go into darker places and learn some hard truths.Link to some of the places and initiatives Tone mentions:https://clothingresearch.oslomet.n...
2021-12-171h 06
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Gentlemans subculture - With Mathias Lösel of The Heritage Post (#71)The Heritage Post magazine is celebrating 10 years of publication and writer Mathias Lösel drops in to talk about gentleman culture, denim and tweed, subcultures, individuality and rugged guys, that Florian Schneider cover, Churchill and how they work on expanding the minds of their readers.Find The Heritage Post on the web here and on Instagram as @theheritagepost.The free English edition of the latest issue is here.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome t...
2021-12-101h 23
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Always be evolving - With Cristiano Berto of 1st Pat-rn (#70)This week designer Cristiano Berto drops in to talk about his years in Italian fashion design, his early inspiration from American styles, meeting Massimo Osti back in the day, making clothes that work together and don't expire when fashion changes, finding joy in fabrics and their makers, finding success in Japan and how to him sustainability also includes treating both suppliers and customers with respect.You can find Cristiano and Sylvia on the web at 1stpat-rn.it and on Instagram as @1stpatrn.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by...
2021-12-031h 43
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Unpicking sustainability - With Melissa Watts (#69)This week my guest, sustainability and fashion writer Melissa Watts, takes me down the primrose path of fast fashion and the problem of sustainability. We talk about the fast fashion pulled a fast one with their Higgs index, how the science of marketing is making consumers take on the industry's guilt, the problem of agreeing on some actual numbers and facts, the recent trauma porn landfills of garment waste in Ghana and Chile and the frustration of campaigning in echo chambers.You can find Melissa's newsletter "Not what it seams" on Substack.Garmology is researched...
2021-11-261h 30
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.The joy of clothes - With Ragnhild Brochmann (#68)In a quest to lighten the mood a bit, fashion historian and national esthetician Ragnhild Brochmann visits the pod this week to talk about historical peacockery, why teens have more fun, revisiting your younger self, the codes of accessories, how the 1940s had the best garment, why finding your style isn't the way to go and much more!Ragnhild writes a weekly column for the Norwegian newspaper Morgenbladet, she is also on Instagram!You can watch Ragnhild and Nick on "God Morgen Norge" here (Norwegian breakfast TV).Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited...
2021-11-191h 52
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Passion and ethics - With Neil Christopher of ARN Mercantile (#67)This week Neil Christopher stops by for a chat. Neil is known from underground legend ARN Mercantile, as well as being a sought after chap from all manner of companies. With a career starting in an unlikely and random way and pretty much continuing in the same vein, we get into the ethics of the industry, what needs to change, the business of making proper clothes, keeping your footprint minimal, why Red Wing soles are worse than they used to be, and the predictable topics of fast fashion and true sustainability.You can find Neil on Instagram...
2021-11-121h 58
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Let's hope it rains - With Richard Ince, umbrella maker (#66)This week Richard Ince is my guest. Richard is the sixth generation Ince making umbrellas in the family firm. James Ince Umbrellas has been making their wares in London since 1805, a whopping 215 years. We talk about how the industry has changed, how umbrellas have evolved, having faith in your product, flamboyancy and sustainability.Find James Ince Umbrellas on Instagram as @inceumbrellas and check James Ince Umbrellas website.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the...
2021-11-051h 02
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Down the denim rabbit hole - With Mohsin Sajid (#65)This week Mohsin Sajid stops by for a bumper session on his 20 years in the denim industry (so far), a rundown on denim history, collecting vintage sewing gear, which vintage jeans are the best, Â zero-waste design, how denim is slowly moving from being one of the worst polluters in the fashion industry to something a little better and how Tencel is doing good stuff, hemp making a massive comeback, spanking a lot of industry and sustainability myths!Find Mohsin Sajid on Instagram as @mohsinsajid and check Mohsins Linktree for more info on his many endeavours.G...
2021-10-291h 52
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Small is beautiful - With Leigh of The RE:DIRECTORY (#64)This week my guest is Leigh of The RE:DIRECTORY. After 20 years in High Street retail, Leigh reached a point where she could no longer stand behind the values they worked to, mainly going for quick profit and short-term gains. As an experienced buyer, she has seen the inner workings of the fashion business, from top management to the shop floor. She now promotes small, ethical businesses through her web platform, The RE:DIRECTORY. Topics include how fast fashion played Pied Piper to the traditional fashion business, the lies we are told through marketing, how quickly items go from...
2021-10-221h 17
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.You've worn that before! - With Professor Andrew Groves (#63)Andrew Groves is Professor of Fashion Design at the University of Westminster, London and curator of their menswear archive. He pops by to talk about moving to London as a young man, working with Alexander McQueen, being a  student while working in a sex shop, moving into academia as a lecturer, the one-upmanship of terrace culture,  why bad taste needs to be collected and shopping for the Menswear Archive with a sack full of cash. Oh, and some more ideas on what makes a cherished garment!You can find Andrew Groves website here and on Instagram as @pr...
2021-10-151h 26
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.A slow fashion chat- with Sam Binstead (#62)This week, Sam Binstead is back for a laidback chat about the world of slow fashion, local makers, mending, vintage, bond villains, the outdoorsy life, promoting the susty message on Instagram, the real way forward and making shoes from odd materials. You can find Sam Binstead on Instagram as @Sam.Binstead and on YouTube here.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at buymeacoffee.com/garmologyNick Johannessen is also the e...
2021-10-081h 19
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Suits you, Sir! - With Nicholas Simon (#61)This week bespoke tailor Nicholas Simon visits Garmology to talk about the future of suits, how he was pushed into pushed tailoring, why Savile Row is still the epitome of suit-making, the difference between a good suit and a bad suit, bespoke vs made to measure, why it makes sense to own a really well made and well fitting suit in a great fabric. And, Nicholas attempts to describe the smell of Patrick Grant. You can find Nicholas Simon on the web here and on Instagram as @nicholas_simon_tailoringGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, e...
2021-10-011h 10
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.From Cornwall with love - With Ella Griffee (#60)Ella Grifee is a solo maker based in Cornwall, UK. From her small studio she crafts shirts to order, from organic fabrics and shipped in recyclable wrapping. Inspired to start the company after being furloughed from a large fashion company, it seemed the perfect time to pivot into doing her own thing. We talk about life as a sole employee, working from home, the joy of making, Ella's favourite stolen goods and how cherished garments are sustainable.You can find Ella Grifee on the web here and on Instagram as @ellagrifee_studioGarmology is researched...
2021-09-241h 05
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Weaving songs - With Sam Goates of Woven In The Bone (#59)After a long career in textile design and fabrication, Sam Goates set up shop as a solitary weaver in the port of Buckie in the North of Scotland. Bringing a down at heel bitsa this, bitsa that Hattersley single-width loom back to life to weave custom cloths for discerning customers worldwide. We talk about Sam's time in Australia, how she is not weaving Harris Tweed, the frustrations of keeping a vintage loom running right, employing family members and how there are never enough hours in the day. Inevitably we also get into sustainability, buying better and less and try...
2021-09-171h 04
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Accessorize this - With Richard of Tyler and Tyler (#58)First out in season 3 of Garmology is Richard Tyler of Men's Accessories company Tyler & Tyler. Tyler & Tyler comes from the stable of a British family-controlled business that has been manufacturing in Birmingham since 1908. They design and make all the extra shiny finishing touches such as cufflinks, tie clips, blazer buttons and lapel pins. They also offer a swathe of ties, leather goods and more. We talk about the making, the using, the reasoning, design, sustainability and more.You can find Tyler and Tyler on the web at tyler-and-tyler.com and on Instagram as @tylerandtylerbhamGarmology...
2021-09-101h 14
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Building business from basics - With Ryan Mallinson (#57)Keen waxer of waxed jackets, Ryan Mallinson, is back for a follow-up. We get into a few of the ideas behind slower fashion, buying what you actually need instead of what is available, taking care of your kit, repairing and improving, building a business from scratch, taking risks, creating a brand and building a community, being genuine in business, and more!You can find Mallin & Son on Instagram as @mallinandson and on the web as mallinandson.comGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no...
2021-07-1851 min
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.In search of better - With Gary Newbold of English Utopia (#56)Gary Newbold returns for this episode to talk around the topic of "buy better, buy less", what choices we make in how things are made, which fabrics we use, what it's like to work in the clothing business and more. There is a lot of talk of which fabrics and fibres we should avoid, but which should we seek out? This is probably the most ASMR episode yet, for those in the know.You can find English Utopia on Instagram as @englishutopia and on the web as englishutopia.com.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited...
2021-06-251h 38
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.It's knot science - With Ian Fieggen aka Professor Shoelace (#55)One of the most fundamental pieces of human knowledge is tying knots, and even more so when it comes to our footwear. Lacing and tying shoes is something we learn at an early age and most of us use this knowledge daily all our life. My guest today is Ian Fieggen, self-styled Professor Shoelace, inventor of better knot and keeper of the definitive website for lacing and tying. We talk about how this came about, what knots mean to him, which knots for what purpose, why it matters how you lace your shoes, teaching knots to children, and how...
2021-06-171h 04
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Wooster on menswear - With Nick Wooster (#54)An icon of men's style, fashion business guru, the face of #menswear, a voracious collector of garms and a non-fungible digital Lego figure. Nick Wooster is the guest of this weeks Garmology! We talk about his early days longing for a cashmere sweater in Salina, Kansas, moving to New York and eventually scaling the grades within fashion, the randomness of becoming a style icon and what it's like to still be in it for the clothes.You can find Nick on Instagram as @nickwooster and on the web at nickwooster.comGarmology is r...
2021-06-051h 27
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.A life for design - With Mark Larese-Casanova (#53)This weeks guest is Mark Larese-Casanova, an old friend of mine from the heady days of menswear forums. Mark is a fellow fan of well-made, well designed and interesting menswear, so much so that he has recently changed from being in front of students to becoming a student. We talk about making garments and how knowledge changes your perspective on what you wear. Oh, and designing and making your own clothes.You can find Mark on Instagram as @mlcasanova.design and on the web at https://mlcasanova.designGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published...
2021-05-201h 21
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.For the greater goat - With Jack Millington from Billy Tannery (#52)My guest in this episode is Jack Millington, founder of Billy Tannery, a business that started with the plan of using the otherwise discarded hides of goats. We talk about the inspiration to start a new business, the reality of bringing a crazy idea to fruition, the situation for goats and how collaborations make it possible to create a viable business. You can find Billy Tannery on the web here and on Instagram as @billytannery. Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sp...
2021-05-121h 00
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Life in a cold shed - With Paul Vincent of SEH Kelly (#51)The wife and husband team of Sarah and Paul have been running SEH Kelly since 2009. Quietly designing, making and revising a stream of garments that have found appreciative owners. All made in the British isles, from British cloths, and all backed by Sarah's tailoring and Paul's prose. From their HQ, which is basically a cold shed in Shoreditch, they are a great example of doing things well and being happy staying small.You can find SEH Kelly on the web here and on Instagram here.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and...
2021-04-211h 18
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.It's been emotional - The costumes of Guy Ritchie films with Christopher Laverty (#50)It has been said that if you don't notice the clothes used in a film, the designer has done a good job. Sometimes though, the clothes, like the music, the sets and props, become more than just background. For me, the films of Guy Ritchie embody this, so to have a good chat about precisely this subject, I sat down with Christopher Laverty, author of "Fashion in film", the Clothes on Film website and an utter anorak when it comes to what is being worn on the big screen.You can find Christopher on Instagram as @christopherlaverty...
2021-04-141h 22
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Sewing Bees - With Liz Grylls and Matt Gage (#49)Arguably, one of the most compelling television shows in recent years is The Great British Sewing Bee, a fierce, yet friendly, competition between keen hobbyist sewers, with warmth, humour and great opportunities for learning. I can only imagine countless new sewers being inspired to thread their machine and start creating. My guests are Matt Gage and Liz Grylls from the 2020 season and we talk about getting started, applying for the Sewing Bee, what it was like on set, appreciating clothes you have made yourself, and the murderous nature of transforming the unexpected into marvels in only 90 minutes. Oh, and...
2021-04-101h 12
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Clothes as art - With Tanmay Saxena of Lane Fortyfive (#48)Tanmay Saxena has enjoyed an unusual route to where he is today, from studying IT in India to starting Lane Fortyfive in London. We talk about how he got started, being noticed in Japan, how making to order allows a unisex and made to measurements approach, slow fashion, sustainability and how people should think of dressing more as art than a way to merely hide their bodies from sight.You can find Lane Fortyfive on the web  at lanefortyfive.com and on Instagram as @lanefortyfive.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and e...
2021-03-311h 23
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Slowing down fashion - With Sam Binstead (#46)Sam Binstead enjoys the good things in life. Coffee, wine, cheese and now, a slow fashion style. We talk about what slow fashion entails, where to find the good stuff, the issues in how we dress and ultimately, is "slow fashion" a good name for it? Sam vlogs about a considered lifestyle and buying better and less on YouTube, see link in the notes.You can find Sam Binstead on Instagram as @Sam.Binstead and on YouTube here.As mentioned in this episode, a couple of Harry and Paul's "I saw you coming" links are...
2021-03-171h 22
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Mature style - with David Evans aka Grey Fox (#45)David Evans, otherwise known as Grey Fox, has been blogging about menswear for 10 years. Championing menswear for the older man, be it classic suits, vintage denim or outdoors tweed, David has built a wide following. We talk about the madness of social media, the problem of both liking new clothes and being pro-sustainability, and how old cars fit in with heritage brands and enjoy a good laugh.You can find David's blog at greyfoxblog.com and on Instagram as @greyfoxblogGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen...
2021-03-101h 24
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Fits, fails and whatnot - With Sarah Gilfillan of Sartorialab (#44)A popular guest from season one makes a welcome return! Sara from Sartorialab is on the pod for a light chat about fits, fails, hairstyles after hair loss, hats, the fallacy of buying the same stuff over and over, dressing for weddings and quite a bit of this and that!You can get in touch with Sarah on Instagram as Sartorialab or on the web.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast at...
2021-03-031h 02
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Party like a weaver - With Daniel Harris of London Cloth Co (#43)Daniel Harris started the London Cloth Co, a micro-mill in London in 2011, with one ancient and broken loom. Since then he has accumulated and restored many more, woven for many illustrious customers, mingled with gangsters and aided the International Space Station. Oh, and put the cloth on the back of Han Solo in the recent Star Wars epic.You can find London Cloth Co on the web and londonclothco.com and on Instagram as LondonClothCo.Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or...
2021-02-241h 21
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Raedical reuse - Christopher Raeburn (#42)Award-winning British fashion innovator Christopher Raeburn joins the podcast to talk about how he got involved in upcycling military surplus, creating high fashion from vintage escape maps and parachutes, how change is happening even in huge companies such as Timberland and how the spread of ideas and inspiration is as valuable as producing a saleable product. We also get into buy better/buy less, sustainability, the reuse of fibres, greenwashing and whether the high volume/low-cost business model is viable going ahead. And as a treat, we end up with The Lads, Christopher's home worm farm/food waste recycling...
2021-02-1755 min
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Podcast therapy - With my sister Emma (#41)A slight diversion guest-wise today, as it's my sister Emma, a psychologist, that picks up the phone for a fly-on-the-wall style chat about topics within the Garmology sphere. We talk about the psychology of social media, why retail therapy has become a thing, peak hipster, why women get poorer clothes, the issues and pitfalls of ordering online, where the real deals can be done, our mums' taste is outed and much more. Unusually, I get to talk more in this episode!Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There...
2021-02-101h 09
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.From the isles comes the cloth - Harris Tweed with Lorna Macaulay and Rebecca Hutton (#40)This weeks episode is all about Harris Tweed, a legend among cloths and arguably the most socially significant of fabrics. My guests this week are Lorna Macaulay and Rebecca Hutton from the Hebridean Islands. Lorna is CEO of the Harris Tweed Authority, promoters and protectors of the tweed, and Rebecca Hutton, an independent single-width weaver at Taobhtuath Tweeds. We talk about the history of weaving, life on the islands, how actual Harris Tweed came to be, the significance of the Orb symbol and the legal protection, life as a weaver, the ups and downs of Harris Tweed and more...
2021-02-031h 15
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Finding confidence and purpose - With Rebecca Perkins (#39)The guest this week is Rebecca Perkins, acclaimed author and midlife coach. We talk about confidence in mid-life, finding your purpose, not being limited by labels, being ourselves, learning to sew and write and the problems of living your life through social media.Rebecca's links:https://themidlifecoach.com/https://www.recoveryfromwithin.life/https://fourwomenfourdecades.com/Best Knickers Always: 50 lessons for midlifeRecovery from Within: a mother and daughter's journey through anorexiaDan's sewing Instagram Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or s...
2021-01-271h 13
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Optically inclined - With Jason Kirk of Kirk & Kirk (#38)My guest this week is Jason Kirk, director of the family firm Kirk and Kirk eyewear. We talk about how we go about buying glasses, why they can be so expensive, the differences in the material used for frames and the varieties of lenses, whether it matters where things are made, buying from the behemoths of the optical world versus an independent shop, how glasses fit and whether you should use a stylist or find your own expression.Kirk and Kirk can be found at kirkandkirk.comGarmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid...
2021-01-201h 10
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Keeping faith in Sheffield steel - with Michael May, Sheffield knife maker (#37)Sheffield was the birthplace of stainless steel and pivotal in the Industrial Revolution. Cutlery and knives have been proudly stamped "Made in Sheffield" since 1871. My guest today is Michael May, an independent maker of knives in the old Portland Works in Sheffield. Michael keeps the old craft alive, in one of the buildings from when it started, having his precious Damascus steel hammered out in the original forge from back then. We talk about how becoming a knifemaker was a non-obvious, but necessary career evolution and the craft that goes into his knives.You can find Michael...
2021-01-1333 min
Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.Roaringly retro - with Sophie Bainbridge of Stanley Biggs Clothiers (#36)A new year and a fresh season of Garmology! In this episode, my guest is Sophie Bainbridge, co-founder of Stanley Biggs Clothiers and total enthusiast for the roaring '20s. Stanley Biggs a heritage clothing brand, unashamedly inspired by the past, in style as well as in spirit, taking a firm stand against fast fashion and offshoring by producing hats, knitwear and more in the UK.Sophie and I talk about the route from living history to reenactment and on to the possibility of Cosplaying a full-on vintage menswear style. Underway Sophie regals me with tales of...
2021-01-061h 39