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Friends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #1: Malheur Lake OverlookWe begin the tour here at the northwestern corner of the Great Basin, overlooking Malheur Lake with Mud Lake to the west. Harney Lake is just beyond the sand dunes visible on the western horizon. Lake levels can vary dramatically according to the annual winter snowpack in the Blue Mountains to the north and Steens Mountain to the south. At water levels low enough for emergent plants to grow, Malheur Lake becomes one of the West’s largest inland marshes. At high water levels, such as those that occurred in the 1980s, Malheur Lake floods into Mud and Harney La...2019-05-1905 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #2: Sod House Ranch and Malheur Field StationLooking to the west, you can see the buildings and cottonwood trees of the historic Sod House Ranch. Established and managed by Peter French for Dr. Hugh Glenn in the 1880s, Sod House Ranch was the northern headquarters for this 140,000- acre livestock empire. Eight of the original ranch buildings are still standing, including the restored barn. Many of the original corrals also remain intact. The cottonwood trees were planted in the 1890s and provide nesting habitat for colonial waterbirds, especially Great Blue Heron and Double-crested Cormorant. The ranch is open to the public from August 15 through October 15, and...2019-05-1801 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #3: Wright’s PondGeneral George Wright led some of the earliest troops in settling the West. It is not certain whether Wright actually visited the Blitzen Valley, but in 1865 he died in a shipwreck off the California coast. His name is memorialized in at least two notable Harney County landmarks: Wright’s Point on Highway 205 and Wright’s Pond, which is before you now.
The Blitzen River flows northward from Steens Mountain to Malheur Lake, making Wright’s Pond one of the last ponds to receive water in the spring. From May to October, however, the pond supports a broad diversi...2019-05-1702 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #4: Basin-and-Range GeologyAt this point, you are within the geological province known as the Brothers Fault Zone, a narrow and highly fractured area between the still-spreading Basin-and-Range province to the south and the older, more stable mountains to the north. Look around at the isolated buttes and flat-topped ridges. These fragments of the originally contiguous land- scape have been separated by faulting and subse- quent erosion. Before you finish this tour, you will pass from the Brothers Fault Zone into true Basin- and-Range topography.
Look to the south, up the Blitzen Valley. To the left is Steens Mountain—a sin...2019-05-1600 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #5: McLaughlin SloughMany homesteaders settled across the Blitzen Valley, but most of their stories have faded with history. One, however, has persevered—that of pioneer mother Nettie McLaughlin. Born in 1852, she was first married to a Mr. Brown at age 17. With him, she bore three children and began raising them at their homestead near this tour stop. Brown soon died, leaving Nettie to raise her family alone. She later married Mr. McLaughlin just one year before her death at age 35. Her grave site remains pre- served on the Refuge just a few miles south of here.
At this site on...2019-05-1501 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #6: First ResidentsRattlesnake Butte, which appears to your left, has been important to people since prehistoric times. Nearby, a rocky ledge extends across the river providing the only natural crossing for miles. This point of access, along with the availability of water and a butte from which to survey the surrounding land, made this an important place for bands of Northern Paiute people who first occupied the valley as early as 9,600 years ago.
By 3,500 years ago, small villages were built around the marshes and along the river. Excavations show the people who lived here harvested waterfowl, rabbits, fish, and l...2019-05-1401 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #7: Meadow LandsAlong the tour route, you may have noticed rows of old juniper fence posts. Volunteer groups have contributed hundreds of hours removing the old wire fences that were hazardous to wildlife. Many posts were left in the ground as perches for raptors, which you may see hunting over the meadows. In the wetlands, these posts are often used by gulls and terns, and you may be lucky enough to spot a Willet or Wilson’s Snipe on one.
You will also notice that the river has been straightened and channelized along this stretch. This was done by pri...2019-05-1303 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #8: Buena Vista PondsThe Buena Vista ponds are managed for nesting and migrating waterfowl. In some years, they also serve as nesting habitat for Trumpeter Swan. In the fall, Sandhill Cranes loaf here at night as they stage for their southbound migration.
As you look at Steens Mountain from this angle, you will see what looks like a rugged chasm on the north side. This is the famous Kiger Gorge, a classic U-shaped valley carved by ice-age glaciers. Although the continental ice sheet did not reach this far south, Steens Mountain was high enough to develop its own glaciers, which l...2019-05-1200 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #9: Buena Vista Trail and OverlookFrom here you may either drive 3/4 of a mile on the gravel road or walk the 1/4-mile trail to the Buena Vista overlook, which offers a stunning panorama of the Blitzen Valley. Combine the two on foot for an excellent one-mile birding hike.
The rimrock surrounding the overlook offers one of the best places on the Refuge to get up close and personal with Canyon and Rock Wrens. Watch for Cliff and Violet-green Swallows nesting along the cliff faces and for Bullock’s Oriole and Western Kingbird between the field station and the lower trailhead. In the sag...2019-05-1101 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #10: Diamond LaneIn the field across the paved road, post-breeding Sandhill Cranes begin congregating in August to prepare for their southerly flight. Up to 250 pairs of cranes nest on the Refuge, but as many as 3,000 may pass through on yearly migrations, stopping at the Refuge to rest and refuel. The eastern edge of this field is often a good place to see pronghorn, North America’s last remaining relative of the antelope family. As the fastest land animal on the continent, pronghorn can run 45 miles/hour for several miles.
A left turn here would take you on a side tri...2019-05-1002 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #11: Crane PondIf you wish to take a break from your vehicle, park on the right side of the road and hike the primitive half-mile trail to Crane Pond overlook. Crane Pond represents the delta of Krumbo Creek. In breeding season, watch for mated pairs of Sandhill Cranes and their colts, or juveniles. You might see a Brewer’s or Lark Sparrow along the trail, and watch for Bushtit in the juniper trees.
Krumbo Reservoir lies four miles farther down this road. As the deepest water on the Refuge, the reservoir hosts good numbers of diving birds. It is an...2019-05-0901 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #12: Blitzen River WillowsThe willow thickets are particularly dense along this section of the Center Patrol Road. Although they block the view of the river and certain fields, they host a wonderful variety of migratory songbirds, including warblers, flycatchers, sparrows, vireos, and finches. Black-headed Grosbeak, Yellow Warbler, and Willow Flycatcher typically nest in this habitat.
A banding project here revealed that one Willow Flycatcher had successfully made its annual round-trip to Central America ten times, returning to the exact same spot to nest each summer. Not bad for a six-inch bird weighing less than an ounce! This discovery changed our u...2019-05-0801 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #13: Benson PondGeorge M. Benson served as the Refuge game warden, and later agent, beginning in 1918. Preferring the title of “refuge protector,” Benson not only enforced hunting and trapping laws at Malheur, but he also banded many waterfowl, often with the help of local children. With is wife Ethel, Benson eventually moved into the old ranch house that once stood in the large cottonwood grove at the end of this road. The small stone building that remains in the shade of these cottonwoods was first a well house 1930s and 1940s, when the Civilian Conservation Corps was planting willows and excavating what...2019-05-0701 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #14: Dredger PondDredger Pond is named for the steam-driven dredge that was eventually abandoned here after once being used to channelize the Blitzen River.
The surrounding marsh vegetation, mostly hardstem bullrush, or tule, provides excellent nesting habitat for Redhead, Mallard, Canada Goose, and Northern Harrier. Behind Dredger Pond and nestled in the small basin to the east is Boca Lake, an important nesting site for multiple grebe species.
As you proceed along the Center Patrol Road, look for the occasional breaches in the dike on the opposite side of the river. These are natural attempts by the Blitzen R...2019-05-0601 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #15: Knox PondsThe two large ponds here are good examples of wetlands that are managed to improve the survival of young waterbirds. Periodically, both West and East Knox Ponds are drained and planted with grain for forage. Once dry, they can be excellent places to look for Mountain Bluebird, American Pipit, and Horned Lark.
Proceeding south on the Center Patrol Road, you may notice fire-scarred willow remnants. Fire is a natural part of the valley’s ecology, and controlled burning is an important management tool for keeping certain habitats in healthy condition. When burning is not an option, haying and...2019-05-0501 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #16: Cottonwood PondThe lone cottonwood tree that gives this pond its name is one of many roost sites for Bald Eagles that overwinter on the Refuge. Other large raptors may also roost in this sentinal tree, including resident Red-tailed Hawk and Golden Eagle or overwintering Rough-legged Hawk.
The riparian, or streamside, habitat in this area has hosted Yellow-billed Cuckoo in repeated years, a species of great interest to birders. This bird, once seen more frequently along Oregon waterways, needs a complement of cottonwood for feeding and willow for nesting. Perhaps as we begin the process of restoring healthy riparian s...2019-05-0401 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #17: Bridge CreekThis is another good place to get out and stretch your legs. You are standing at the confluence of Bridge Creek and the Blitzen River. The dam you see on Bridge Creek (on the east side of the road) had for years presented a barrier to the redband trout traveling up to spawning grounds in the upper reaches of the creek. In an ongoing plan to improve conditions for fish, the Refuge is installing screens, which prevent the loss of fish to the meadows, and fish ladders, which improve passage around dams. The fish ladder you see here has...2019-05-0301 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #18: Bobolink AlleyFrom here to P Ranch, the Center Patrol Road could be called “Bobolink Alley,” at least from late May through July, when breeding pairs are present. Male Bobolinks are most visible from late May into early June, when they are actively singing and displaying among the willows and tall grasses, often perched along the road. Look for their striking pied plumage—generally black with bold white patches and a cream-colored skull-cap—and listen for their whimsical, tinkling song from among the willows.
Once the young Bobolinks fledge, the adults become harder to find, but concentrations of birds can somet...2019-05-0201 minFriends of Malheur National Wildlife RefugeStop #19: P RanchIn 1872, backed by California industrialist Dr. Hugh Glenn, Peter French headed north from California with a few vaqueros and 1,200 head of Glenn’s shorthorn cattle. They sought land for grazing and livestock production, and once French entered the lush Blitzen River Valley, he knew his search was over. The Glenn/French dynasty, through some legitimate and some devious practices, eventually controlled the entire valley, with outposts at Buena Vista, Sod House, and Diamond. We observed the Sod House at our first stop on the auto tour, and we close the tour at the French long barn, here at the P...2019-05-0103 min