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Showing episodes and shows of
Jared Vagy
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The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Energy System Training - Steve Smith
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury. ...
2025-07-01
1h 08
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
How to Prevent and Recover from Meniscus Injury - Joshua Foster
In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries, including exercises to restore range of motion and strengthen the muscles around the knee. They emphasize the importance of proper movement patterns and provide climbing-specific exercises to prevent meniscal injuries in climbers. Joshua Foster's Bio Josh Foster is a Doctor of...
2025-05-01
39 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Ankle Sprain Rehab for Rock Climbers - Nicholas Hedges
In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained...
2025-03-01
50 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
TFCC injury: A Common Wrist Pain in Climbers - Kimmy Wiley
In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process. Kimmy Wiley's Bio Kimmy Wiley is a doctor of physical therapy and...
2025-01-01
35 min
Eurosport podcast
And1 NBA Podcast #149 // Jimmy, Giannis, Joel: fogadsz ellenük?
A szezon első negyede után körülnézünk kicsit az alulteljesítők háza táján. Persze, maga a fogalom is relatív, hiszen nem mindegy, hogy valakitől a szurkolói, a média, vagy éppen a klubvezetés várna többet az aktuális teljesítménynél?És persze azt se feledjük, hogy húsz meccs után még sosem hirdettek bajnokot a ligában. Vajon a sérültek felépülése után (???) rendbe tudja-e rántani a hajót a Sixers? A Bucks tényleg olyan jó lenne, mint ah...
2024-12-10
1h 01
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong
This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when...
2024-11-01
29 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Climb On after a Concussion – Stacey Castaldo
In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of head injuries. Seek medical attention and get screened after a head injury...
2024-09-01
36 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Tendons: Do I Load it or Rest it - Evan Ingerson
In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this conversation provides valuable information and advice for...
2024-07-01
35 min
The Struggle Climbing Show
Dr Jared Vagy: Pro Clinic on Climber Injuries, Rehab, and Prevention
In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Vagy covers the most common climber injuries, rehab, and prevention, including: Frequent shoulder injuries Simple exercises to strengthen the shoulder, build range-of-motion, and properly warm up before a session Why the elbow is a 'dumb joint' How to perform a simple self-assessment to determine what type of elbow issue you're having, and how to address it Lumbrical injury, and why it's unique to climbers Top 3 finger injuries (and which one now holds the top spot) The only proven warmup protocol to help prevent finger injury Why capsulitis has been on the rise in t...
2024-05-23
39 min
Art of Prevention
The Climbing Doctor's Guide to Injury-Free Training and Sending with Jared Vagy
Embark on a journey to the peaks of rock climbing wisdom with Jared Vagy DPT, the Climbing Doctor, as we tackle the paramount topic of injury prevention and management. Jared unfolds his narrative, from an injury-laden student to a trailblazer in climbing medicine, shedding light on the growth of this specialized area and the collective efforts across the climbing community to uphold climber health. Jared is a Professor in the DPT program at University of Southern California. He has also lectured worldwide about various topics, and he now specializes in treatment of rock climbers. Jared is author the author...
2024-05-10
50 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Climbing as Therapy for Mental Health – Beth Scott
In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR...
2024-05-02
34 min
Könyvben utazom Oláh Andreával
Életreszóló könyvek - Dojcsák Dániel
Az Életreszóló könyvek vendége Dojcsák Dániel, ő a Shiwaforce kommunikációs igazgatója, szisztematikusan és szenvedélyesen olvasó ember, aki ezúttal számára meghatározó olvasmányélményeiről mesél. Ebben a beszélgetésben a science fictiontól a szépirodalmon és az emberiség történetéről szóló könyveken át, a vállalati kultúrával foglalkozó könyvekig elképesztő utat járunk be. Íme a címek a listájáról: Honnan jöttünk? Yuval Noah Harari: Sapiens Jared Diamond: Guns, Germs and Stee...
2024-04-30
36 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Climbing as Therapy for Mental Health – Beth Scott
In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR...
2024-03-12
34 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
DIP Joint Finger Injuries - Steve Smith
In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to...
2024-03-01
52 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
The Ultimate Guide for Returning Back to Rock Climbing - Evan Ingerson
In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of...
2024-01-01
35 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Climbing Injury and Training Trends - Patrick Matros
Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers: Climbing/training trends Analyzing a climber and creating/implementing a performance plan Coaching philosophy and working with Alex Megos Managing injuries and callaborating with other health professionals Patrick's general tips for climbing resiliency Patrick's info and outro Contact In...
2023-12-05
49 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
The Mental Game of Climbing Injuries - Arno Ilgner
Listen Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. In this interview with The Climbing Doctor, Arno discusses his history, mental aspects of climbing, and injury management. This episode covers: A history of The Rock Warrior's Way -- how it started and developed to what it...
2023-11-04
43 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Preparation is Everything - Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor Interviews 4-time Climbing World Cup Champion Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, delving into her personal routines, coaching philosophies, favorite climbing drills, and how she has managed to maintain her health through a lifetime of tough climbing. This episode covers: Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou intro Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's thoughts on family and what motivates/inspires her Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's warm up routine Team management/warm up in team setting Supplemental exercise routine - progressions, addressing weak links, maintenance Common areas of weakness, injury prevention, and how RR addresses them What distinguishes elite level climbers Robyn Erbesfield Ra...
2023-10-05
27 min
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow @ClimbingMedicine 3:30 - Overview of this y...
2023-10-02
38 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Keep Your Body Strong and Resilient for Climbing - Tom Randall
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews Tom Randall! Tom is the founder of, as well as coach of Lattice Training, a comprehensive training platform for rock climbing. Watch as Tom pulls from his vast experiences as a high level climber and coach to discuss training methodology, injury prevention, and more! This episode covers: How Tom started and developed his training Developing Lattice Training Tom's experiences with personal injury Common injuries and mistakes Shoulder resiliency and management Tom's go-to exercises for general resiliency and holistic approach Tom's general advice for climbing Outro Contact Info: IG: @tom...
2023-09-05
45 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
The Power of Good Footwork Climbing - Kris Hampton
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Kris Hampton on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on Kris's experience with shoulder and hamstring injuries, what he does to climb strong without getting hurt, common technique errors with climbing, and balancing technique drills with hard climbing. This episode covers: Shoulder injuries and climbing specific rehab Hamstring injuries when rock climbing What do you do to avoid injuries Common climbing errors related to performance How to combine training, techniques, and movement performance Closing thoughts Kris Hampton's Bio: Kris became a student of movement by watching gymnasts...
2023-08-04
44 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Full Body Training for Climbing - Dicki Korb
Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews world class climbing coach, Dicki Korb -- trainer of Alex Megos and co-author of the best selling climbing book, Gimme Kraft! Watch as Dicki shares his thoughts and methodologies from his 37 years of climbing! This episode covers: Gimme Kraft! and sharing training methods Contemporary training Dicki's go to exercises, warm up tips, and movement practice/preparation Challenges, risks, and considerations with modern competition climbing Finger training, campus boarding, and training errors Changes in coaching since pandemic Dicki's general tips for resiliency Contact Info: webpage: https://cafekraft.de/de em...
2023-07-05
56 min
And1 NBA Podcast
And1 NBA Podcast 88 // Kalapot le!
Wilson Chandler, Emmanuel Mudiay, Kenneth Faried, Danilo Gallinari, Jusuf Nurkic, Mason Plumlee, PJ Dozier, Bol Bol, Jared Vanderbilt, Malik Beasley, Facu Campazzo, Bones Hyland, Gary Harris, Paul Millsap, Torrey Craig, Juancho Hernangomez, Jerami Grant, Will Barton, Monte Morris. Hogy csak a prominensebbeket említsük, azokat, akik - így vagy úgy - de hozzátettek az építéshez, aztán mégis lemaradtak a ceremóniáról. Az élet már csak ilyen. Azért rájuk is gondolunk és arra is, hogy anno a Golden State-hez hasonlították ezt a Denvert. Így lesz ez tíz év múlva is? És a Mia...
2023-06-18
39 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
How Pro Climbers Manage Injuries - Felipe Camargo
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Tenaya athlete Felipe Camargo on all topics related to injuries. This interview was part of the “Behind the Send” campaign by Tenaya, sharing the stories of those who make the climbing life possible, from route developers, coaches, and physios to mountain guides, mentors, and advocates. This episode covers: Felipe’s history of finger injuries and prevention exercises Finger intrinsic strength Finger warm-up strategies for climbing Tips and tricks to keep the fingers strong for climbing Anatomy of the pulleys and pulley protection ring Rehabilitation exercises for pulley injuries The variation behind the side and...
2023-06-05
59 min
Ablak Japánra
#20– Nem betegség mégis olyan, mintha az lenne – minden nőt elér egyszer!
A menopausáról már bizonyára Te is hallottál, akár nő vagy, akár férfi. A kérdés viszont az, hogy mit, és milyen mélységben tudsz és vajon mindazt helyesen tudod-e?A termékenység elvesztése hogyan érinti a nőket Magyarországon, és hogyan Japánban?Mi az általános vélekedés: nem betegség, akkor nem is kell „kezelni”, ugyanakkor betegségek melegágya lehet ez az évekig elhúzódó állapot. Nem véletlen hívják változó kornak.Koch Mária a helloklimax program alapítója...
2023-05-14
1h 41
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Lower Your Risk For Climbing Injury - Eric Hörst
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Eric Hörst on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep in to tips to reduce injuries, warm-up routines, shoulder stability training, posterior chain exercises, finger health and maintenance, wrist strength, and a few final thoughts on how to climb injury-free. This episode covers: General tips that help you lower injury risk Describe your own personal climbing warm-up Describe the importance of training the shoulders Go-to Exercises for the shoulders Developing the posterior chain Wrist stability for the fingers Final words and last thoughts Erics Hörst's Bio: Eric...
2023-05-05
1h 06
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
AC Joint Sprain Climbing Rehab - Jonathan Siegrist
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Arc'Teryx athlete Jonathan Siegrist about his experience with injuring and rehabilitating his Grade III AC joint rock climbing. This interview occurred in 2020, 5 weeks after Jonathan had a grade III AC sprain. After diligent therapy and several months, Jonathan returned to full strength climbing. He continued to train and shortly after, he sent his most challenging project yet. This episode covers: Taping techniques for AC joint sprain Early range of motion Staying strong early on Blood flow restriction therapy Early strength training Returning to early climbing Late stage strengthening Exercise demonstrations Jonathan Sie...
2023-04-05
55 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Train For Climbing Smarter Not Harder - Steve Bechtel
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Steve Bechtel on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on training mistakes that are common with climbers, training exercises, power exercises for climbing performance, climbing assessments, inside elbow pain, and how to warm up the hands and fingers for climbing. This episode covers: Mistakes and errors that climbers make with training What are your biases of types of exercises that climbers should use to train How important is lower body power for climbing Assessments typically performed on climbers A discussion about Steve's medial epicondylitis Some great analogies on an...
2023-03-05
43 min
The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Injury Secrets from Movement Coaching - Udo Neumann
Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Udo Neumann on all topics related to climbing and injuries! Climbing since 1982, Udo has written multiple books on rock climbing, and has served in roles as both German bouldering coach and advisor to various climbing federations. Take notes, because there is a wealth of information to be had from this climbing legend! This episode covers: Udo's career as a climber, researcher, coach, and federation member Udo's take on warm up routines The visual system in climbing Incorporating standard rehab exercises into intention based climbing Udo's creative process for exercises and exposing climbers t...
2023-02-05
1h 07