Shows
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastEthics, Consumer Power, and Supporting From AfarIn this special episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson steps away from formulation talk to address what many are asking right now: what are we supposed to do? With recent events in Minneapolis and the broader climate around immigration and civil rights, people are feeling overwhelmed and looking at one lever they still control—where they spend their money. Jennifer explores corporate stances, boycotts versus buycotts, and what actually makes a difference. She makes the case that beauty has always been political, provides a framework for evaluating companies beyond viral infographics, and reminds listeners that "I can't do ev...
2026-01-2806 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastFrom L'Oréal Labs to Indie Beauty: The Real Cost of Formulation with Alec BatisIn this episode, Jennifer sits down with Alec Batis, whose 30+ year career in beauty spans R&D, marketing, and brand ownership. Alec shares his journey from L'Oréal chemist to founder of Sweet Chemistry, a science-backed skincare brand developed with SUNY Downstate Medical Center. The conversation explores the intersection of chemistry and marketing, the reality of cost-of-goods in beauty formulation, and building a values-driven brand in a prestige-obsessed industry.Key Takeaways:Career pivots driven by curiosity and opportunity: Alec's path from chemistry degree to L'Oréal R&D happened through persistence (calling HR mo...
2026-01-2152 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastSmall Batch, Big Stakes — Andrea Cid on U.S. Beauty ManufacturingManufacturing is where beauty dreams are either built or broken. In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we go past the mood boards and into the factory with Andrea Cid—founder of Miami Growth Machine and owner of Concept II Cosmetics. With a global background spanning Chile, the U.S., the U.K., and Asia (Harvard Economics; Wharton MBA), Andrea breaks down what “small batch” really means—volumes, costs, and flexibility—and why it’s mission-critical for emerging brands. We dig into the realities operators face today: labor dynamics in immigrant-powered teams, inflation and supply-chain pressures, and how savvy founders adjust sourc...
2025-12-1839 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastFraming the Formula: How Visual Storytelling Shapes Cosmetic BrandsWhat do your products look like to the world? Beyond INCI lists and claims, beauty brands are built—visually. In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer Cookson is joined by Anderson, the creative mind behind A-Son Agency and By-Anderson, whose photography brings brand philosophies to life. We explore how product photography, creative direction, and brand identity intersect to tell a cohesive visual story. Whether you’re a founder, marketer, or formulator, this episode will make you think differently about the images you use to represent your work.Takeaways:• Social-First Strategy Delivers More Value for Indie Brands: Rather than spending a mill...
2025-12-0328 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastBetween the Headlines: Navigating Beauty, Science, and Integrity with Becki MurrayIn this 30-minute conversation, Becki pulls back the curtain on what it really takes to write responsibly in beauty media. We talk about the pressures of maintaining editorial independence in a world of brand partnerships, and the blurred lines between transparency, trust, and truth.From navigating terms like “clean” and “non-toxic,” to resisting the urge to oversimplify complex science for the sake of a headline, Becki shares how she treads the gray areas with care. We also dive into how her voice shifts when ghostwriting versus bylining, what it means to write for both experts and everyday readers, and which tr...
2025-12-0132 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastBiotech Beauty: Hype, Hope, or Greenwashed Science?The beauty industry is buzzing with terms like “lab-grown,” “bioengineered,” and “nature-identical”—but what do these really mean, and how much of it is science versus storytelling? In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re joined by David Breslauer, a synthetic biologist and the co-founder and CTO of Bolt Threads, a pioneering biomaterials company known for innovations like lab-grown spider silk and mycelium-based leather.David brings deep expertise in synthetic biology and materials science—and a refreshingly grounded take on how biotechnology is being positioned in beauty and fashion. We explore what’s real, what’s overstated, and what it takes to move from...
2025-11-2042 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastFinding Your Voice: Whitespace, Words & What Makes a Beauty Brand StickWhat makes a beauty brand truly memorable? In this 40-minute episode, verbal identity strategist Taylor de Diego shares how she helps brands uncover their whitespace and build a voice that’s unmistakably theirs.Taylor shares her journey from working at L'Oréal and MAC Cosmetics to launching her own company after experiencing firsthand the frustration of finding the right foundation shade.The conversation explores how AI and computer vision are transforming the beauty industry, the challenges of building accurate shade-matching technology that works across diverse skin tones, and the complex relationship between online and in-store beauty shopping. Taylor discusses the...
2025-11-0642 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastFragrance with Purpose: Building Sustainable Scent Strategies with Cassandra BrowningFragrance has the power to spark memories, define brands, and create lasting emotional connections—but how can it also do good? In this 30-minute conversation, Cassandra Browning, founder of Fragrances for Good, shares her vision for a more conscious and innovative fragrance industry.With a degree in aroma and formulation science from the UK and experience spanning global fragrance houses including L'Oréal and as EU fragrance head for Ecover and Method, Cassandra brings rare expertise bridging creative and technical aspects of fragrance.Takeaways:Context Makes a Fragrance Brief Effective: A good fragrance brief goes far beyond describing how som...
2025-10-2337 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastMore Than a Molecule: What It Really Takes to Launch a New Cosmetic Ingredient with James DillardIn this candid 30-minute conversation, James Dillard shares what he wishes he had known before launching a new cosmetic ingredient—and what every formulator, brand founder, and raw material supplier should understand about the realities of innovation in beauty. We explore: Why scientific elegance isn’t enough—and what actually moves decision-makers, the invisible gatekeepers that stall ingredient adoption, how messaging, not just molecule design, shapes commercial success, why the industry’s narrow lens can block cross-industry innovation and the importance of storytelling, positioning, and relentless clarity.Takeaways:• The Unconventional Entry Point: James entered cosmetics through kelp as a zero-input...
2025-10-0941 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastThe Scented Truth: Decoding Fragrance Transparency in BeautyToday’s episode dives into the fragrant but often foggy world of fragrance in cosmetics. Joining us is Ashlee Posner, co-founder of Lucent Labs, a fragrance and formulation partner helping brands navigate the space between creativity, compliance, and consumer trust.Together, we explore the tension between artistry and regulation in scent:Why fragrance is often called a “black box” on ingredient labelsWhat brands don’t have to tell you—and whyWhat’s really hiding under the word “fragrance”Whether “cleanwashing” is the new greenwashingWho’s actually responsible for fragrance safety—and what can fall through the cracksAnd what Ashlee thinks of IFRA standards...
2025-09-2546 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastSkinminimalism: Doing More With Less in Modern BeautyIn this episode, we're exploring the rising trend of skinminimalism: the art and science of streamlining your skincare without sacrificing performance. To help break it down, we're joined by Mark Broussard, founder of Desert in Bloom Lab—a formulation and manufacturing expert who's built a career helping brands create high-performing, science-forward products with purpose.Together, we explore:What skinminimalism really means for consumers and brandsThe difference between functional ingredients and "label decoration"Why multi-functional actives and purified plant extracts are keyHow minimalist routines are reshaping product portfoliosAnd what it takes to approach formulation with a "less is more" mindsetKey Ta...
2025-09-0938 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastLCA Isn't the Whole Story: Rethinking Sustainability in Beauty With Evan PetersFrom "low-impact formulas" to "carbon-neutral packaging," beauty brands love a sustainability claim—but what are those claims really based on?In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we sit down with Evan Peters, founder of Fairglo, to unpack the promise and pitfalls of Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) in the cosmetics industry. We go beyond the buzzwords to explore how system boundaries, data gaps, and marketing spin can shape—and sometimes distort—what LCAs actually reveal about a product's environmental footprint.Evan shares his insights on cradle-to-gate vs. cradle-to-grave approaches, why end-of...
2025-07-2333 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastBehind the Beaker: Victoria Fu on Science, Skincare & Speaking TruthOn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re going deep with Victoria Fu—former L'Oréal chemist and one half of the dynamic duo behind Chemist Confessions. Known for blending scientific rigor with internet-savvy wit, Victoria shares how she and co-founder Gloria Lu built a platform that busts skincare myths, translates chemistry into everyday language, and formulates products that actually deliver.From navigating the hype cycles of “clean beauty” to defending misunderstood ingredients and simplifying tough concepts for TikTok, we explore what it takes to be both a science educator and a brand founder in today’s beauty landscape. Plus, we un...
2025-07-1057 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastCracking the Chemistry Code: Molecular Literacy with Colleen KelleyIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson speaks with retired chemistry professor and visionary educator Dr. Colleen Kelley, creator of Kids Chemical Solutions. Colleen shares how her comic books and playful curriculum are transforming how children—and adults—learn chemistry by treating it as a language. From teaching molecular literacy as early as age eight to shaping more informed consumers, Colleen makes the case that chemistry fluency is not only possible at a young age but essential for our future. This episode is a must-listen for educators, parents, and anyone passionate about science education, storytelling, or innovation in c...
2025-06-2555 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastBeyond Breakouts: The Future of Acne and Aging with CLEARSTEM' with Mercedes AmansIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mercedes Amans, Head of Product at ClearSTEM, to explore the evolving science and strategy behind formulating products that are both acne-safe and anti-aging. Mercedes shares how ClearSTEM challenges outdated definitions of comedogenicity, leverages data from real consumers, and uses biotech innovation to fill a major gap in skincare. From ingredient myth-busting to the limitations of current testing methods, this episode is a masterclass for anyone working at the intersection of skin sensitivity, science, and beauty.Takeaways:• Acne + Aging Can Coexist: ClearSTEM is disrupting the belief that anti-aging pr...
2025-06-0554 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastFrom Micro-Trends to Market Domination: The AI-Powdered Future of Beauty with Marta PonzoneIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with beauty trend strategist Marta Ponzone, founder of Terra Innovation Studio. Marta unpacks the power of micro trends and how they differ from fleeting fads. She shares how brands—big and small—can detect, validate, and act on emerging signals to stay ahead in a saturated market. They dive deep into the evolving role of AI, the influence of Asian beauty formats, and how brands can balance innovation with brand integrity. If you’re in product development, marketing, or just love decoding beauty industry shifts, this is a must-l...
2025-05-2359 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastScience of Spin? Decoding Cosmetic Claims with the Experts: Guests Abhishek Panchal, Dwight Tshudy, Constancio Gonzalez Obeso, and Zach Lipskyn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson brings together a panel of experts in cosmetic science to explore the fine line between truth and fluff in beauty product claims. From “deep nourishment” to “gene activation,” the group dissects real marketing statements, evaluating whether they’re scientifically supported or simply slick branding. With sharp insights, playful banter, and regulatory know-how, this episode uncovers what really goes into making a claim and what consumers should look out for.Key Takeaways:• Science-based claims require measurable, testable data, not just ingredient potential or in vitro results.• Marketing often leans on vague language like...
2025-05-071h 18
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastBehind the Beauty: How Cosmetics Go from Lab to Launch with Eva SandnesIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Eva Sandnes, a seasoned natural product development consultant with over 20 years of experience in cosmetic formulation. They dive deep into the complex journey of transforming a beauty concept into a market-ready product, exploring the challenges of scale-up, regulatory compliance, and ingredient selection. Eva shares her extensive expertise in emulsion chemistry, product stability, and the critical considerations brands must navigate to successfully launch a cosmetic product.Key TakeawaysProduct Development is a Long Journey• Typical cosmetic product development takes 18-36 months• Requires extensive testing, regulatory compliance, and careful scalingScale-Up Challenges• Lab ba...
2025-04-2359 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastFrom Lab to Launch: The Secrets of Developing Safe and Scalable Beauty ProductsIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Nurit Koniak who shares her extensive experience in beauty and wellness branding, discussing how design, storytelling, and cultural context intersect to create compelling brand identities. She explores the evolution of branding in the digital age, the impact of geopolitical shifts on design, and the challenges of maintaining authenticity in a rapidly changing marketplace.Key Takeaways:Branding is an emotional bridge between commerce and cultureAuthenticity matters more than ever in an era of information overloadDesign reflects broader societal and political...
2025-04-0955 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastGreen Chemistry & The Future of Beauty: Safe, Sustainable, and Effective with John WarnerIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Dr. John Warner, a pioneer of green chemistry, to explore how sustainable chemistry is shaping the beauty industry. They discuss the misconceptions around “natural” and “synthetic” ingredients, the urgent need for safer formulations, and the role of green chemistry in reducing toxicity without compromising performance. With over 360 patents and decades of innovation, John shares powerful insights into how brands and formulators can integrate sustainability into their products while driving meaningful change in the industry.Key Takeaways:What Is Green Chemistry?• Green chemistry focuses on designing safer, more sustainable materials...
2025-03-2044 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastThe Science of Packaging: How Design, Sustainability, and Formula Work TogetherIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Alexander Kwapis, VP of Innovation, Design, and Engineering at Fusion Packaging, to explore the fascinating world of cosmetic packaging. They discuss the critical relationship between formula and packaging, how sustainability is shaping the industry, and the innovative techniques used to create unique, functional, and recyclable packaging. From material compatibility to molecular recycling, this episode is a must-listen for brands looking to elevate their packaging strategy.Key Takeaways:Formula and Packaging Must Work Together:...
2025-03-0656 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastBreaking Barriers with Fermentation: A Sustainable Revolution in Skincare with Barak DrorIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer is joined by Dr. Barak Dror, co-founder and CTO of Mycelium Biomaterials, to explore the future of fermentation in cosmetics. They discuss the science behind liquid and solid-state fermentation, the role of fungi-derived ingredients, and how these sustainable methods are revolutionizing the beauty industry. From tackling microplastic pollution to creating innovative ingredients with improved biocompatibility, this conversation highlights the exciting possibilities of synthetic biology and sustainable ingredient development.Key Takeaways:Understanding Fermentation in Cosmetics:• Fermentation is an age-old process with modern applications for creating sustainable and effective ingredients.• Solid-state fermentation offers a mo...
2025-02-2053 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastThe Business of Beauty: Transparency, Sustainability and Success with Ed SchackIn this episode ofDemystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer chats with Ed Schack, founder of EES Cosmetic Ingredients, to discuss the art and science of building a successful cosmetic ingredient business. Ed shares his inspiring journey from being a history major to a leader in the cosmetic industry, offering insights into overcoming challenges, fostering relationships, and prioritizing people in every aspect of business. Whether you're an entrepreneur, an industry veteran, or just curious about what it takes to thrive in cosmetics, this episode is packed with wisdom and actionable advice.Key Takeaways:Overcoming...
2025-02-0652 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastFrom Lab to Launch: Navigating the Beauty Manufacturing Process with Amy HartIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Amy Hart, Chief Innovation Officer at Elevation Labs, to dive into the world of cosmetic contract manufacturing. From navigating the complexities of product development to overcoming challenges in scalability, regulatory compliance, and sustainability, Amy offers invaluable insights for brands looking to partner with contract manufacturers. Whether you're launching your first product or scaling a successful line, this conversation is packed with practical advice and industry secrets.
Key Takeaways:
Understanding Contract Manufacturing:
• Contract manufacturers (CMs) offer services ranging from R&D and formula development to full-scale production.
• Transparency, quality, and...
2025-01-2044 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastFrom Safety to Claims: How MoCRA is Shaping the Beauty Industry With Nyree Bekarian-MackIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with regulatory expert and clean beauty advocate Nyree Bekarian-Mack to discuss the modernization of cosmetic regulations under MoCRA (Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act) and its impact on the beauty industry. From safety substantiation to navigating regulatory gaps, Nyree provides a deep dive into the challenges and opportunities for brands adapting to this new regulatory landscape.
Key Takeaways:
The Significance of MoCRA:
MoCRA marks the biggest regulatory shift for cosmetics in the U.S. since 1938, focusing on transparency, safety...
2025-01-0648 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastThe Science of Sunscreen: SPF, UV Rays, and Skincare Myths with Mark ChandlerIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mark Chandler, president of ACT Solutions Corp, to dive deep into the science and innovation behind sunscreen formulation. Mark, a 40-year industry veteran and expert in SPF technology, explains the differences between UVA, UVB, and UVC rays, how sun protection factor (SPF) works, and the future of sunscreen technology. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast or industry professional, this episode is packed with insights about sun protection and anti-aging strategies.
Key Takeaways:
Understanding UV Rays: Learn how UVA, UV...
2024-12-231h 01
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastSustainable Packaging Innovations: Insiya Jafferjee on Reducing Plastic in CosmeticsIn this episode, Jennifer interviews Insiya Jafferjee, the founder and CEO of Shellworks, a startup focused on eliminating plastic pollution through innovative and sustainable packaging solutions. They discuss the challenges and opportunities in sustainable packaging for the cosmetics industry, the materials Shellworks is pioneering, and the broader implications of consumer behavior and regulatory changes. Insiya shares insights on how brands can embrace sustainability while maintaining aesthetics and performance, paving the way for a more eco-friendly future.
Key Takeaways:
Sustainable Packaging Challenges: Packaging in cosmetics often involves multiple materials, making recycling...
2024-12-0941 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastUnlocking Skin Health: Kristin Neumann on Microbiome-Friendly Skincare & CertificationsIn this episode, Jennifer hosts Dr. Kristin Neumann, a microbiologist and co-founder of My Microbiome. Kristin shares her journey from microbiological research to founding an educational platform dedicated to understanding the human microbiome. They dive deep into the role of the skin microbiome, its importance in maintaining skin health, and the science behind microbiome-friendly certification in cosmetics. Kristin sheds light on the challenges and myths surrounding skin microbiome products, explains the complexities of certifying microbiome safety, and offers tips for consumers on selecting products that respect microbiome health.
Key Takeaways:
...
2024-11-2543 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastBeyond Skin Deep: How Your Microbiome Shapes Skincare and Health with Elsa JungmanIn this episode, host Jennifer Cookson welcomes Dr. Elsa Jungman, a pioneer in microbiome-friendly skincare and founder of HelloBiome. Together, they explore the fascinating science behind the skin’s microbiome, its impact on overall health, and its role in skincare. Dr. Jungman shares insights from her journey, including her early struggles with skin sensitivity, which led her to a deep understanding of microbiome science. They discuss practical skincare tips, the science behind microbiome-safe products, and the future of microbiome research in beauty and health.
Takeaways:
Understanding the Skin Microbiome: The sk...
2024-11-1244 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastUnveiling Haircare Chemistry: Valerie George's Journey into Hair Dyes and InnovationsIn this episode, host Jennifer Cookson speaks with Valerie George, a seasoned cosmetic chemist, who shares her expertise in the world of haircare and hair dyes. Valerie takes us through her journey from studying biochemistry to becoming an expert in hair dye chemistry. Together, they explore the science behind different types of hair dyes, the challenges involved in formulating effective products, and why the outcomes of hair coloring can vary so much. From discussing the chemistry of permanent and semi-permanent dyes to addressing gray hair and analyzing hair color trends, this episode offers listeners an in-depth look at the...
2024-10-2957 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastNavigating Beauty Industry Regulations: Claim Substantiation, Risk, and Legal Insights with Avril LoveIn this episode, host Jennifer Cookson talks with Avril Love, a legal expert in regulatory compliance for the beauty industry at K&L Gates. They discuss claim substantiation, regulatory oversight, and risk management for cosmetic brands. Avril provides valuable insights on how companies can navigate FDA and FTC regulations, avoid litigation, and manage marketing risks while ensuring their claims are truthful and well-substantiated.
Takeaways:
Claims and Substantiation: Brands must substantiate all claims made about their products, whether those claims are explicit or implied. The substantiation should come from reliable testing...
2024-10-1552 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastClean Beauty Revolution: Ingredient Safety, Transparency, and Sustainability with Christina RossIn this episode, host Jennifer Cookson, an R&D expert in the beauty industry, talks with Christina Ross, Director of Science at Credo Beauty, about clean beauty standards, product safety, and sustainability in the cosmetics industry. Christina shares insights from her experience overseeing the Credo Clean Standard and offers a deep dive into industry challenges, particularly around ingredient safety, transparency, and the environmental impact of cosmetics.
Key Takeaways:
• Clean Beauty Standards: The Credo Clean Standard is a 30-page document that includes guidelines for brands on clean formulations. It focuses on...
2024-10-0452 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastBeyond Beauty: Demystifying Sunscreen, Skincare, and Science with Dr. Julian SassIn this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we dive deep into the science of skincare with Dr. Julian Sass, a renowned expert in personal care Research & Development. With a PhD in Biomathematics and Statistics, Dr. Sass has built a global reputation for breaking down complex cosmetic formulations and advocating for consumer education. We explore his groundbreaking sunscreen database, which has empowered people—especially those with darker skin tones—to make informed choices about sun protection. Join us as we discuss the importance of claim substantiation, product development, and how science plays a pivotal role in the beauty industry. Whether you’re a s...
2024-09-1643 min
The Demystifying Cosmetics PodcastThe Role of AI in Cosmetic Product Development with Potion.aiIn the first episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson dives deep into the transformative role of artificial intelligence in the personal care and cosmetics industry.
Joined by Hajab Malik and Yahya Syed, co-founders of Potion AI, this episode explores how AI is reshaping everything from product development to consumer insights, and what the future holds for this rapidly evolving field.
2024-09-0638 min