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Showing episodes and shows of
Kim Van Der Weerd
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Manufactured
107. The Curious Case of Leicester Part 5: Can We Regulate Fashion Without Causing Harm?
Jennifer Wascak, co-founder of Justice In Fashion, joins co-hosts Kim van der Weerd and Dr. Divya Jyoti to wrap up our deep dive into the Leicester conundrum. Throughout our discussion, we focus on the recurring theme of inequity within the value chain. We explore the role of inequity, questioning whether it stems from the business […]
2024-09-03
1h 04
Manufactured
102. Concluding Crossover Moments: Intention, Inequity, and the Implicit Beliefs Blocking Systemic Transformation
In the final episode of the Crossover Moments mini series, Kim reflects on the key themes that emerged throughout the series. What were the beliefs guests held prior to their “crossover moment”? Why did they decide to let go of these beliefs? What did they replace them with? Her personal experience, and the one […]
2024-03-05
16 min
Manufactured
101. Crossover Moments : Ebru Debbag
In this episode, Kim and Jessie are in conversation with Ebru Debbag, the Executive Director of Global Sales and Marketing at Soorty Enterprises Pvt.Ltd. As the daughter of a cotton farmer, Ebru spent most of her childhood running around fields. From a small atelier making doll dresses to a successful career spanning 27 years at […]
2024-02-20
41 min
Manufactured
100. Crossover Moments : Bergson Wang
In celebration of Manufactured’s 100th episode, hosts Kim and Jessie sit down with Bergson Wang, a social and environmental compliance auditor (among many other roles) from China. As someone with a diverse career spanning over two decades, Bergson shares his journey and aspirations in sustainable fashion. He discusses how and why he began to question […]
2024-02-06
33 min
Manufactured
99. Crossover Moments: Kim van der Weerd on Her Complex Relationship with Factory Floor Staff
In this episode, Kim reflects on the complexity of her relationship with production staff during her time as a garment factory manager. She addresses how integral the prevailing narrative of good workers versus bad factory managers was in shaping the way she engaged with her staff, and how it fails to capture the real, multi-dimensional […]
2024-01-23
23 min
Manufactured
98. Crossover Moments : Ken Pucker
In this episode, Dr. Divya Jyoti and Kim sit down with Ken Pucker, former Timberland COO turned sustainable fashion critic, who now works as a Professor of Practice at the Fletcher School. Fun fact: Ken’s career began in manufacturing, and at the time he joined Timberland, they were still producing much of their footwear. Though […]
2024-01-09
55 min
Manufactured
97. Crossover Moments : Saqib Sohail
In this episode of the Crossover Moments mini-series, Kim and her co-host, Dr. Divya Jyoti, are in conversation with Saqib Sohail, a mill leader in Responsible Business Projects from Pakistan. Saqib, who has an academic background, discusses his journey from perceiving sustainability as a global positive to raising questions about its actual beneficiaries. An encounter […]
2023-12-19
44 min
Manufactured
96. Crossover Moments: Kim van der Weerd on How Racism Shapes Sustainable Fashion
In this episode, Kim reads an article she wrote and published in July 2020 titled, ‘How Racism Shapes Fashion’s Approach to Sustainability’ where she talks about her personal relationship with the title ‘Garment Factory Manager.’ From feeling the need to qualify her role to a straightforward self-introduction, Kim’s transformation emerges from the shadows of racism […]
2023-12-05
17 min
Manufactured
95. Crossover Moments : Dr.Divya Jyoti
In this episode, Kim and her co-founder, Jessie Li, talk to researcher Dr. Divya Jyoti about her crossover moments. Divya is currently a lecturer at Lancaster University, but once envisioned a path in factory management. As a close collaborator of Manufactured for several years, Divya once saw supply chain challenges as mere technical puzzles—codes of […]
2023-11-21
29 min
Manufactured
94. Crossover Moments : Jessie Li
In this episode, Kim and her guest co-host, Dr.Divya Jyoti, talk to Manufactured co-founder Jessie Li about her crossover moment. She reflects on her time working for a buying office in China, and on realising that so much of the work she and her team were doing was invisible – their stresses and challenges overlooked and ignored. She shares how this realisation made her rethink everything - including how she understands the term “sustainable fashion.” This episode is part of the "Crossover Moments” miniseries, where we explore key moments of personal transformation that led people to question and ultimately reject conventi...
2023-11-07
39 min
Manufactured
Introducing: Crossover Moments
After quietly challenging the status quo and peeling away the invisible assumptions that cloak mainstream sustainable fashion, we are now delving into personal stories. In this series, our host and former garment factory manager Kim van der Weerd shares her personal journey and, along with her co-hosts Divya Jyoti and Jessie Li, talks to industry experts about the key pivotal moments that led to them questioning and ultimately rejecting conventional approaches to sustainable fashion. This mini-series, called Crossover Moments, explores an awakening that goes behind the story, reveals more choices beyond the defaults, and explores how we can break habits...
2023-10-24
10 min
Manufactured
93. Perspectives on Fashion’s Decarbonization: Exploring Areas of Consensus and Dissensus
This episode is an audio version of a keynote that host of this podcast, Kim van der Weerd delivered at Planet Textiles, which was hosted by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition as part of ITMA - a machinery expo for the apparel sector in Milan in June 2023. She reflects on her work in various decabonization projects – from a forthcoming research report from Transformers Foundation to discussions from the Asia Garment Hub, and beyond – and shares her own views and opinions on where the industry seems to agree, where it doesn’t, and how we might understand each other better. She tells us how...
2023-09-26
42 min
Manufactured
92. How it’s made: On Cotton with Rajeev Baruah
On this episode we’re taking a look at cotton value chains in the Indian context with Rajeev Baruah, who has worked in cotton for decades. Though his background is originally in agriculture and tea, his cotton journey started with a spinning facility back in the 90s on a mission to work with organic cotton farmers - something that, at the time, was unheard of. In the years since, he’s gone on to work in a number of different roles with different stakeholders across the value chain. Rajeev gives Kim an in-depth look at the steps that go into grow...
2023-07-25
38 min
Manufactured
90. How it’s made: On Silk with Hilmond Hui
To understand the process, benefits and barriers within regenerative sericulture, we go back to Kim’s conversation from November 2021 with Hilmond Hui, Vice President of international clothing enterprise PFG and its subset Bombyx. Hilmond tells us more about Bombyx, which was formed in 2018 with a focus on regenerative silk production and transforming the way silk is produced, traded and consumed. Their Nanchong Ka Fung (NCKF) facility is located in the northeast of China’s Sichuan province, and they’re on a mission to do everything from dirt to fabric and beyond.
2023-06-27
25 min
Manufactured
88. How it’s made: On Leather with Vijay Suvarna
We’re going back to our conversation from May 2021 with Vijay Suvarna, who takes us through the production process of leather from inspection to grading and pricing. Vijay spent many years as the CSR and Sustainability Manager for Asiatan, a tannery that manufactures leathers including cowhide, sheep, goat, and suedes. He takes Kim and Jessie through the different kinds of leather and the relationships between farmers, tanneries, shoe manufacturers and brands.
2023-05-30
35 min
Manufactured
86. How it’s made: On Virgin & Recycled Polyester with Sharon Chen
On this week’s episode, we discuss the production process of a pretty infamous material – polyester, or polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and recycled PET, to be precise. Kim is joined by Sharon Chen, the Director Of Business Development at Baichuan Resources Recycling, a leading manufacturer of recycled textiles in China, who speaks about how virgin and recycled PET are manufactured. Sharon tells us about the types of raw materials needed in the process, who they buy these inputs from, and how they’re processed to ultimately become a yarn. She takes us through the spinning, weaving, and dyeing processes and shares a bit...
2023-05-02
50 min
Manufactured
85. Everyday Essentialism: On Differentiating “Brands” from “Suppliers”
We all know that there’s a kind of essentialism that happens in conversations about sustainable fashion (and beyond). It’s shorthand that artificially groups together very diverse groups of people and lumps them according to a single or several defining features. This episode is an open discussion of two such terms: “brand” and “supplier.”
2022-12-13
30 min
Manufactured
84. Decarbonization – Three Manufacturers on Whether They Have Mapped Pathways for Achieving their Decarbonization Targets
Do apparel manufacturers have mapped pathways for achieving their decarbonization targets, or not? This episode features responses to this question from three different manufacturers: Mustafa Ahmad the General Manager of Sustainability for US Apparel & Textiles in Pakistan, Krishna Manda the Vice President of Corporate Sustainability for Lenzing, and Matthew Guenther, the Director of Environmental Sustainability for TAL Apparel.
2022-11-15
26 min
Manufactured
83. Manufactured x Asia Garment Hub: Decarbonization – Practical Tips for Talking to Manufacturers About Decarbonization
This is an audio version of a piece I wrote for the Asia Garment Hub called “Practical Tips for Talking to Manufacturers About Decarbonization.”
2022-10-25
12 min
Manufactured
082. Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Decarbonization – Perspectives from the Denim Supply Chain
This conversation brings together representatives from different levels of the denim supply chain: brand (Boysih Jeans), mill (Candiani), and farm (the Sourcery). We talk about which part(s) of making a pair of jeans has the biggest impact on carbon emissions? Do we know? We talk about the possibilities: what role can companies operating in different parts of the denim supply chain can take towards reducing carbon emissions. And we also talk about the limits: what challenges do companies face when it comes to reducing carbon emissions? The conversation is an edited version of a webinar Kim moderated for Transformers...
2022-10-11
49 min
Manufactured
081. Decarbonization – Sid Amalean on MAS’s Decarbonization Opportunities and Challenges
Why did MAS sign-up for science-based targets? What are their challenges? What kind of support is needed from brands and retailers?
2022-09-27
51 min
Manufactured
Special Edition: Support Flood Relief for Pakistani Cotton Growers
This is a short message from Crispin Argento, Co-founder and MD of Sourcery, about a fundraiser they’re doing to support Pakistani cotton growers adversely impacted by current flooding.
2022-09-20
08 min
Manufactured
080. Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: The Higg Data Debate Part 2 – Re-Imagining Consumers as Conversation Changers
Will empowering consumers to shop differently really drive fashion’s transformation?
2022-08-16
12 min
Manufactured
079. Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: The Higg Data Debate – No Room For Context, Imagination, or Co-Creation
I've been thinking a lot about the controversy surrounding the Higg Material Sustainability Index. It's taken me some time to put together my thoughts, and I'm not sure I'm totally there yet. But here it goes...
2022-07-12
13 min
Manufactured
078. Manufactured x Asia Garment Hub: Wellbeing – Do Social Compliance Audits Make Factories Better Places to Work?
What do two manufacturers, one brand, and one ex-social compliance auditor think: do social compliance audits make factories better places to work? What’s the intention behind social audits? Are audits about assurance? Or should they be a tool for collaboration and conversation? Or both?
2022-06-28
44 min
Manufactured
077. Wellbeing – On Subcontracting: Does More Visibility Equal More Wellbeing?
Is visibility a sensible way of approaching wellbeing in fashion supply chains? Is the fact that subcontractors are invisible really what causes adverse human rights outcomes? Or are adverse human rights outcomes in fashion supply chains a symptom of how we distribute financial risk?
2022-06-13
25 min
Manufactured
076. Wellbeing – A Cambodian Perspective on What Drives Factory Management Behavior
We can’t talk about wellbeing on the production floor without also talking about factory management. What drives the behavior of factory management? What are their incentives? And how does this translate on the production floor?
2022-05-31
25 min
Manufactured
075. Manufactured x Asia Garment Hub: Wellbeing – Dr. Divya Jyoti & Dr. Achyuta Adhvaryu Debate Definitions & Metrics
Dr. Divya Jyoti and Dr. Achyuta Adhvaryu debate: how should worker wellbeing be defined and measured?
2022-05-17
34 min
Manufactured
074. Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Marzia Lanfranchi & Elizabeth Cline on Misinformation, Cotton, and the Need for Nuanced Stories (Part 2)
This is part two of a conversation with Marzia Lanfranchi and Elizabeth Cline, co-authors of the new report: Cotton: A Case Study in Misinformation. The chat is co-hosted by Sarah Mock.
2021-12-14
29 min
Manufactured
073. Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Marzia Lanfranchi & Elizabeth Cline on Misinformation, Cotton, and the Need for Nuanced Stories (Part 1)
This is part one of a conversation with Marzia Lanfranchi and Elizabeth Cline, co-authors of the new report: Cotton: A Case Study in Misinformation. The chat is co-hosted by Sarah Mock.
2021-12-14
46 min
Manufactured
072. Flip the Script: Two Suppliers Talk to an Impact Investment Strategist (Part 2)
This is part two of an episode that brings together people from opposite ends of the fashion supply chain – two suppliers and an impact investment strategist.
2021-11-30
34 min
Manufactured
071. Flip the Script: Two Suppliers Talk to an Impact Investment Strategist (Part 1)
This is part one of an episode that brings together people from opposite ends of the fashion supply chain – two suppliers and an impact investment strategist.
2021-11-30
22 min
Manufactured
070. Hilmond Hui: How Bombyx is Transforming the Way Silk is Produced, Traded and Consumed (Part 2)
In part 2 of this chat Hilmond Hui, VP of Bombyx and VP of PFG, talks barriers: if regenerative silk is so great, why doesn’t everyone do it?
2021-11-16
25 min
Manufactured
069. Hilmond Hui: How Bombyx is Transforming the Way Silk is Produced, Traded & Consumed (Part 1)
In this episode, Hilmond shares a bit about the evolution of PFG (a longtime Eileen Fisher producer), and how this ultimately led to Bombyx. We then dive into the details: what does regenerative silk production mean? How does Bombyx approach it?
2021-11-16
29 min
Manufactured
068. Matthew Wallace on DXM: An On-Shore, On-Demand Manufacturer Co-Owned by Shahi Exports, Brandix, MAS Holdings, Busana Group, and Carhartt (Part 2)
This is part two of a conversation with Matthew Wallace, CEO of DXM & guest co-hosted by Gauri Sharma. DXM is a local, on-demand manufacturing company that’s co-owned by one brand and four suppliers.
2021-11-02
37 min
Manufactured
067. Matthew Wallace on DXM: An On-Shore, On-Demand Manufacturer Co-Owned by Shahi Exports, Brandix, MAS Holdings, Busana Group, and Carhartt (Part 1)
This is part one of a conversation with Matthew Wallace, CEO of DXM & guest co-hosted by Gauri Sharma. DXM is a local, on-demand manufacturing company that’s co-owned by one brand and four suppliers.
2021-11-02
26 min
Manufactured
066. Flip the Script: Three Manufacturers Talk to an Activist (Part 2)
This is part two of a conversation between three manufacturers and an activist. How would Suzanne, Amrin, and Jay like Kate to engage in conversations about overproduction? What do Jay, Amrin, and Suzanne think about activists and educators calling out brands?
2021-10-19
27 min
Manufactured
065. Flip the Script: Three Manufacturers Talk to an Activist (Part 1)
This is part one of a conversation between three manufacturers and an activist. We cover a big question: what kind of information would Suzanne, Jay, and Amrin like to see Kate looking at when educating the public about the fashion industry?
2021-10-19
30 min
Manufactured
064. Dr. Vidhura Ralapanawe on the Need for Equal but Differentiated Science-Based Targets (Part 2)
This is part two of our conversation with Dr. Vidhura Ralapanawe, Executive Vice President for Innovation & Sustainability at Epic Group and a Member of the Board of Directors at the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. We shift to the firm level: given the importance of context to environmental target setting, how does he approach his work at EPIC?
2021-10-05
20 min
Manufactured
063. Dr. Vidhura Ralapanawe on the Need for Equal but Differentiated Science-Based Targets (Part 1)
This is part one of our conversation with Dr. Vidhura Ralapanawe, Executive Vice President for Innovation & Sustainability at Epic Group and a Member of the Board of Directors at the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. We chat about science-based targets: why do they make Vidhura uncomfortable?
2021-10-05
36 min
Manufactured
Dr. Divya Jyoti on How Workers Experience Supplier Codes of Conduct Part 2
This is part two of our conversation with Dr. Divya Jyoti. She shares the results of her research: how do codes of conduct create hidden work for workers on the factory floor?
2021-09-21
32 min
Manufactured
Dr. Divya Jyoti on How Workers Experience Supplier Codes of Conduct Part 1
This is part one of our conversation with Dr. Divya Jyoti. Divya shares why she began to question the industry’s approach to social compliance, and her realization that she didn't actually know how workers experience supplier codes of conduct... a question that ultimately lead to her Phd.
2021-09-21
27 min
Manufactured
Season Four Opener: Important Updates & A Message From Jessie
Tune in for this season's updates, including a thoughtful message from Jessie explaining her decision to take a step back from her co-hosting responsibilities (though she will continue to be involved in the show!).
2021-09-20
17 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Matthijs Crietee on How to Achieve Supply Chain Partnership
This is part two of our conversation with Matthijs Crietee, Secretary General of the International Apparel Federation (IAF).
2021-06-22
27 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Matthijs Crietee on Enforcing Commercial Compliance
This is part one of our conversation with Matthijs Crietee, Secretary General of the International Apparel Federation (IAF).
2021-06-22
40 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Gladys Tang on How Brands Can Support Supply Chain Dialogue
In this episode, part two of our conversation with Gladys Tang, we talk about why Gladys thinks dialogue is the key to a more sustainable future, and how brands can support it.
2021-06-15
21 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Gladys Tang on Why Working as a Social Auditor Left Her Convinced of Their Inadequacy
In this episode, part one of our conversation with Gladys Tang, we start with Glady’s time as a social compliance auditor. She shares why her experience left her feeling that conventional approaches to sustainability were inadequate, and ultimately, led her to Tchibo.
2021-06-15
26 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Marzia Lanfranchi and Andrew Olah on a Constitution for the Fashion Industry
What is Transformers Foundation? What are the Eight Ethical Principles? And how, exactly, will they serve as a “Constitution” for the Ethical Denim Council?
2021-06-08
36 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Marzia Lanfranchi and Andrew Olah on Putting Supplier Voices at the Center of the Sustainable Fashion Story
In this episode, Andrew Olah and Marzia Lanfranchi of Transformers Foundation, share what they think is missing from the sustainable fashion story, and why they think supplier voices should be at its center.
2021-06-08
34 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Three Suppliers on Why They’ve Vertically Integrated & How it Shapes Sustainability Strategy
Back in April we teamed up with Transformers Foundation and three vertically integrated suppliers from Pakistan, India, and Turkey respectively for a live panel discussion about how vertical integration has shaped their journeys – both from a general business perspective and a sustainability perspective.
2021-06-01
44 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Dr. Stephen Frost on What’s Missing in the Sustainable Fashion Conversation
In this episode, part two of our conversation, Stephen reflects on the gaps he perceives in the sustainable fashion conversation and what he wishes different stakeholders at the sustainable fashion table understood about one another.
2021-05-25
30 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Dr. Stephen Frost on Fashion Evolving Approach to CSR
In this episode, part one of our conversation, Stephen reflects on how CSR within the fashion industry has evolved and shares his views on how his manufacturing clients have perceived CSR over the years.
2021-05-25
35 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Professor Raymond Robertson on Why Social Compliance Data is a Necessary but Insufficient Metric for Worker Well-Being
This is part two of our conversation with Professor Raymond Robertson. Is data from social compliance audits a reasonable proxy for improved worker well-being? And if we agree that social audits are a necessary but not sufficient condition, what’s next?
2021-05-18
37 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Professor Raymond Robertson on Social Compliance & Factory Closure Rates
This is part one of our conversation with Professor Raymond Robertson. Are socially compliant factories more or less likely to go out of business? What can we make of his findings?
2021-05-18
40 min
Manufactured
Marsha Dickson on the Possibilities and Limits of Supplier Voice
In this episode, part two of our conversation with Marsha, we get into what it would take to get suppliers to open up and share their perspectives more freely.
2021-05-11
31 min
Manufactured
Marsha Dickson on the Importance of Data to Supplier-Led Sustainability Narratives
In this episode, part one of our conversation, we ask Marsha about why she started Better Buying and how she became an advocate of purchasing practices in the first place.
2021-05-11
38 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Vijay Suvarna on How a Leather Manufacturer Approaches Sustainability
Given the relationships upstream and downstream, and the complexity of sustainability issues facing the leather industry, how did Asiatan decide where to start its sustainability journey? And what’s Vijay’s take on the role of government regulation?
2021-05-04
19 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Vijay Suvarna on Leather Traceability
This episode is all about inputs: what types of inputs does Asiatan need to make its leather? Where do these come from? What’s their relationship like with their suppliers? And how does this impact the traceability of leather?
2021-05-04
23 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Vijay Suvarna on How Leather is Made
Always wanted to know how leather is made? Vijay Suvarna, formerly the CSR and Sustainability Manager for Asiatan, gives an overview of the leather production process. What’s their relationship with shoe factories? And what’s their relationship with brands?
2021-05-04
36 min
Manufactured
Crispin Argento on Cotton Traceability
This is part two of our conversation with Crispin Argento, Managing Director at the Sourcery, about cotton traceability.
2021-04-27
37 min
Manufactured
Crispin Argento on Direct-to-Grower Cotton Sourcing
This is part one of our conversation with Crispin Argento, Managing Director at the Sourcery, about direct-to-grower cotton sourcing.
2021-04-27
38 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Bonus – Cannon Michael Celebrates Brand Best Practice
Cannon shares a bit about a regenerative agriculture project he’s working on with a brand, and the way it’s been structured to ensure a fair distribution of risk and reward.
2021-04-20
06 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Cannon Michael on Cotton Traceability
In this episode Cannon shares why he thinks existing cotton accreditation options fall short, how traceability could and should be done when it comes to cotton, & why he sees traceability as the key to being able to tell his own story.
2021-04-20
41 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Cannon Michael on Growing Cotton in California
In this episode we talk to Cannon Michael, a California cotton grower. What is Extra Long Staple cotton (also known as Pima cotton)? What drives Cannon’s costs? How are these impacted by California’s regulatory environment? What drives the prices he’s able to get for his cotton? And why has he decided to do the ginning himself?
2021-04-20
40 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Kong Athit and Dr. Mark Anner on Workers and Factory Management Collaborating to Advocate a Bigger Piece of the Pie Part 2
This is part two of our conversation with Dr. Mark Anner and union leader Kong Athit. What blocks worker trust in management? And vice versa?
2021-04-13
47 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Kong Athit and Dr. Mark Anner on Workers and Factory Management Collaborating to Advocate a Bigger Piece of the Pie Part 1
This is part one of our conversation with Dr. Mark Anner and union leader Kong Athit. What would it take for workers and factory management to work together to advocate for a bigger piece of the pie, so to speak?
2021-04-13
30 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Sanjeev Bahl on REKUT & Inclusion
In this episode we talk about REKUT, a manufacturing facility providing equal opportunities to people who are differently abled. How is production set up? Who buys the products? What would it take to see more projects like REKUT coming out of the apparel manufacturing world?
2021-04-06
27 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x Transformers Foundation: Sanjeev Bahl on Saitex, Intersectional Environmentalism & Inclusivity
This week we talk to Sanjeev Bahl, founder and CEO of Saitex. We talk about Sanjeev’s personal journey, what Saitex is, and introduce its latest offshoot: REKUT, a movement to create jobs and equal opportunities for people with different abilities.
2021-04-06
28 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Anne Patricia Sutanto on Why She Values Openness Over Sales
In this episode, Anne gets into what’s positioned Pan Brothers to be able to pick and choose the brands it works with and why she values openness over sales.
2021-03-30
31 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Anne Patricia Sutanto on Pan Brothers Tbk & Apparel Production in Indonesia
Pan Brothers is a apparel manufacturing company based in Indonesia, and their story is pretty remarkable. When Anne started working for the company back in 1997 they had 2000 workers. Fast forward to the present and Pan Brothers employs over 35,000 workers.
2021-03-30
28 min
Manufactured
Rachel Faller and Sokpriya Yan on Co-Creation
In this episode, we look at how tonlé’s ownership structure shapes and enables a collaborative design process, and true co-creation between the sales side of the business and the production side of the business.
2021-03-23
28 min
Manufactured
Rachel Faller on Finding Investors Willing to Invest in Manufacturing
In this episode we chat to Rachel Faller about why tonlé does its own manufacturing, and what that’s meant for the company as they’ve grown… Particularly when it came to finding investors.
2021-03-23
38 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ: Herman Leung on Taking the Long-Term View
Herman Leung is Head of Operations for Dakota Group. Dakota Group is a manufacturing company headquartered in Hong Kong and producing across China, Cambodia, and Myanmar.
2021-03-15
33 min
Manufactured
Sierra Brodleit and Arjen Laan: A Candid Conversation Between Brand and Supplier
This week we are doing something we’ve never done before: talking to a supplier, and the brand they produce for, together. Our guests this week prove that relationships between brands and suppliers don’t have to be contentious, and that there’s a better way.
2021-03-09
33 min
Manufactured
Bonus – Miran Ali on Creative Ways of Generating Returns on Sustainability Investments
In this short bonus episode, Miran shares bit about the innovative sustainability projects Bitopi is leading, and how he’s overcome obstacles like access to financing and weak returns on sustainability investment.
2021-03-02
17 min
Manufactured
Miran Ali on STAR Network’s Joint Call for Better Purchasing Practices
In part two of our conversation with Miran Ali we get into the STAR Network’s groundbreaking joint call for better purchasing practices.
2021-03-02
31 min
Manufactured
Miran Ali on Regional Supplier Collaboration & the STAR Network
In part one of our conversation with Miran Ali we get into the origins of the STAR Network. How did it come about? How did they address supplier fears regarding collaboration?
2021-03-02
27 min
Manufactured
Gauri Sharma & Anant Ahuja: On Vertical Integration and Sourcing Indian Cotton
This is part two of our conversation with Anant Ahuja and Gauri Sharma of Shahi exports, one of India’s largest garment manufacturers. We get Shahi’s decision to become vertically integrated as well as their cotton sourcing strategy, and why they’re supporting Indian cotton growers to improve their yield and quality.
2021-02-23
36 min
Manufactured
Gauri Sharma & Anant Ahuja: On the Past, Present & Future of Shahi Exports
This episode is a conversation with Anant Ahuja and Gauri Sharma of Shahi exports, one of India’s largest garment manufacturers. We cover their unique origin story, their growth trajectory, their take on supplier leadership within the sustainability agenda, and the innovative social programs the company runs in partnership with Good Business Lab.
2021-02-23
40 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Edwin Keh on Getting Beyond Transactional Buyer-Supplier Relationships (Part 2)
If forecasts are moving away from past-oriented regression models, and if a rapidly changing world is making it harder and harder for brands to accurately forecast, what comes next?
2021-02-16
38 min
Manufactured
Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Edwin Keh on Data Supply Chains, Outdated Forecasting Models, and Disrupting the Fashion Industry (Part 1)
Which data will disrupt the fashion industry? Where will it come from? How will different supply chain actors use it? What potential does it have for shaking up brand-supplier roles and relationships?
2021-02-16
40 min
Manufactured
Bonus: Matthew Rendall on Winding Up in Cambodia
Bonus episode! Hear Matthew Rendall tell the extraordinary story that landed him in Cambodia. It was too long to include in the main episode and doesn’t really have anything to do with the sustainable fashion agenda. But it was too fascinating not to share 😊
2020-12-08
10 min
Manufactured
On Local Legal Contexts, Trust, & Worker-Management Relations with Matthew Rendall
In this episode we’re joined by Matthew Rendall, a specialist in Cambodian labor law. We look at the particularities of the Cambodian labor law, and how trust in a legal system affects relationships between factory managers and workers.
2020-12-08
47 min
Manufactured
Tales of Fashion Consumption in Changing China
In this episode Jessie takes us on a personal journey: how has the task of acquiring clothes evolved throughout her lifetime, in a rapidly changing China? Though a single personal story will never give us all the answers, we hope that Jessie’s memories can be a tiny note of a reference for imagining the possibilities of a more sustainable future.
2020-12-01
35 min
Manufactured
LOOSE THREADS 005
This week we look at two questions. The first one is: what do suppliers think consumers can/should do to shop more responsibly? And the second one is: if life as a garment factory owner is so tough, do people remain in the business? Why not quit?
2020-11-25
08 min
Manufactured
Nurul Muktadir Bappy on Why Garment Manufacturers Don’t Quit the Business
This week we turn to a question that, in many ways, is a subtle undercurrent running through many of our episodes: if life as a factory owner is so difficult, why do they remain in the business? Why not quit the business?
2020-11-24
29 min
Manufactured
Nurul Muktadir Bappy on Being a Garment Manufacturer in Bangladesh
This week we have the good fortune of sharing a very open and candid conversation with Nurul Muktadir Bappy. Bappy is from Bangladesh and has been working in the garment industry there since 2011. Though he is now Head of Operations for a sourcing office, he spent much of his career to date working for a manufacturer.
2020-11-17
34 min
Manufactured
LOOSE THREADS 004
What are things like for suppliers now 6 months after all the order cancellations? Have things gotten better, or worse?
2020-11-11
06 min
Manufactured
Tara St. James on How the Offshoring of Production Reshaped the Role of Brands
Which parts of the product development and production processes were brands responsible before the offshoring of production versus afterwards? How did this impact skill-sets and knowledge of production processes within brands? And how has this shift in knowledge and skill-sets affected price negotiations with suppliers?
2020-11-10
39 min
Manufactured
On Demand Garment Manufacturing with Kirby Best
Kirby Best is the CEO of OnPoint Manufacturing, a garment manufacturer based in the United States. OnPoint is a cut and sew company specialized in customization, and they accept orders for as little as one piece.
2020-11-03
33 min
Manufactured
LOOSE THREADS 003
Why do suppliers subcontract?
2020-10-28
07 min
Manufactured
On Subcontracting With Mr. Lin
This episode is based on a conversation Jessie had with Mr. Lin, a Chinese garment subcontractor in Phnom Penh. How did he end up in Cambodia doing subcontracting? What kind of products does he make? How has Covid-19 impacted his business? And how does he see the future?
2020-10-27
32 min
Manufactured
Danielle Arzaga on Candiani: The Little Denim Mill That Could
Imagine a shop with jeans from all different brands, where the only thing tying it all together is that they’re made of denim from the same mill? Sounds pretty revolutionary, doesn’t it? But Candiani denim has done just that.
2020-10-20
28 min
Manufactured
LOOSE THREADS 002
How have payment terms evolved over the years and what do suppliers consider as "favorable/good" payment terms, i.e. that give them financial security.?
2020-10-14
11 min
Manufactured
Danielle Arzaga on Italian-made Denim, Biodegradability, and Direct to Grower Cotton Sourcing
In this week’s episode Danielle shares Candiani’s rich history as a family owned and operated denim mill, still operating in the same Italian town they started in back in 1938.
2020-10-13
36 min
Manufactured
Martin Su & Ariel Muller on Building Networks & Trust
This week we share part 2 of our conversation with Ariel Muller and Martin Su about their collaboration on Circular Leap Asia, a project exploring what it would take for manufacturers to take the lead on circularity.
2020-10-06
32 min
Manufactured
LOOSE THREADS 001
If social compliance audits don't work, why do brands keep finding compliance issues and what else should they do?
2020-09-30
06 min
Manufactured
Martin Su & Ariel Muller on Supplier Leadership in a Circular Economy
This week we talk to Ariel Muller and Martin Su about their collaboration on Circular Leap Asia, a project exploring what it would take for manufacturers to take the lead on circularity.
2020-09-29
36 min
Manufactured
Chronicles x Jessie: Tales of Rebellion, Freedom, and the “Wild West”
For our first foray into Chronicles, Jessie takes us to Hubei province around the turn of the 21st century. She tells us tales of a rebellious student on a quest for freedom which ultimately landed her in the garment industry.
2020-09-22
40 min
Manufactured
Hansika Singh on Systems Change
This week we turn to Hansika’s conviction that sustainability in the fashion world requires a systems lens.
2020-09-15
26 min