Shows
The Struggle Climbing ShowNeely Quinn: How to Deal with Perfectionism and our Inner Critic as Climbers (and Humans)Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
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Mindset coach Neely Quinn explores:
Pros and cons of being a perfectionist as a climber
How to embrace perfectionism (and keep it from ruining our climbing experience)
How to quantify the amount of "suffering" we are willing to go through to improve as climbers
Examining my "failed" spring season
Why it's important to celebrate the little things
The three questions to ask o...
2025-08-201h 28
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.Book a Session With Neely:trainingbeta.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:
2024-04-151h 59
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastOur Top 3 Habits for Success in Climbing and Life with Neely and Matt I recently read the book Atomic Habits by James Clear and, while it’s a really good book and I gleaned some things from it, I also realized that my habits are (humbly) already pretty good. This has been by necessity because there were years of my life when my habits were not good at all. That led me to experience extreme amounts of anxiety, depression, a lack of motivation, and terrible self-care, which amounted to poor health, complete apathy about climbing, failure in my business, and really hard times in my relationships. That just got personal real...
2023-08-121h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can passively watch any sport you want, but if you’re actually an athlete in that sport, you can turn those viewings into active learning sessions by asking yourself a few questions and being really observant. Here’s what we talked about: Why she chose this topic right now Why it’s important to have heroes in your sport What World...
2023-07-191h 24The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing: Alex Stiger Interview Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She’ll be using a series of videos and other resources to describe some climbing drills, strength training tactics, and mindset shifts to help you feel less intimidated and more confident on steeper angles of climbing. Alex will show you all the drills, all the strength exercises, and all the mindset practice you need to unlock steep climbing for yourself. You’ll find out exactly what to i...
2023-04-261h 18The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was working her first 5.13b when she first reached out to Matt a few years ago to coach her. Through the training and tactics they employed, she was able to send her first 5.13b's, her first 5.13c’s, and her first 5.14a, which was her long-term goal. In this conversation, they talk about the changes they made in her physical training an...
2023-03-081h 36The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastBreaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that. She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She’ll then go into the mindset shifts that are required to jump into the coveted 5.12 territory, and how she helps people do that. While you might pred...
2023-01-051h 11The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastGood Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with each other, and what our expectations are of each other in general. This conversation’s purpose is to bring some difficult topics into the light and hopefully to help climbers understand each other better, have more tools to use with each other in stic...
2022-12-141h 17The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions. There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including: Maintaining Composure Breathing Pump Management Nailing Sequences instead of Winging It Eliminating Fear Managing...
2022-12-081h 19The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 215: How We’ve Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely) In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk about their practices as climbing coaches and I discuss my practice as a nutrition professional. Some things we all have in common are that we’re less perfectionistic and rigid in our coaching now than when we first started, and that we focus on different facets of climbing or nutrition now than in years past. We also go over what we be...
2022-10-131h 28The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the years he’s come up with 4 sayings that he elaborates on during client calls. We’re not going to get into the nitty gritty of sets and reps or specific ways to train in this episode, but you will likely find some nuggets that will help you Occam’s razor your climbing and training days. Show Links Do an hour coaching sessio...
2022-09-291h 01The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMatt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of “endurance” in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic system (long-form endurance), and the anaerobic alactic system (power) and the differences between them. Then Matt goes through some different training methods for each and how to incorporate those into your training program. I also selfishly ask Matt about what I’m doing to train endurance to get his opinions on it, which was super helpful for me. Show Links Do an hour...
2022-08-241h 17The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastCalories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition New Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training (and learn more about what Alex talks about in this article), you can check it out in the link below. In the program, you’ll get a 4-week training program from Alex, a comprehensive nutrition course + one-on-one time with Neely, plus weekly live meetings with Alex and Neely and a lot more. As a...
2022-07-2943 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAlex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes Free Masterclass on the 5 Most Common Mistakes in Training and Climbing Next Tuesday we’re doing a free, live masterclass on zoom to talk about the 5 most common training and nutrition mistakes climbers make and how to avoid them. When: Tuesday, July 26th at 6-7:30pm Mountain Time Where: Zoom call Hosts: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn What: 60-minute presentation and 30 minutes of Q&A from live audience: How to avoid common training mistakes How to avoid common nutrition mistakes How to make your outdoor climbing experiences more fun...
2022-07-191h 09The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects Work with Matt or Alex as Your Climbing Coach Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create a detailed program for you based on your lifestyle and equipment availability. WORK WITH MATT OR ALEX How Alex, Matt, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger t...
2022-07-061h 20The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way. While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that made training challenging this year. One of those constraints was that Matt was working at a restaurant and coaching for a total of about 70 hours per week, so his plan needed to be efficient. The other is that he only had a board to climb on the entire time, and not that...
2022-06-011h 05
Subscription EntrepreneurHow To Build A Thriving Community That Converts with Neely QuinnHave you ever wanted to build a business around a topic, activity, or field you're deeply passionate about?It's kind of the dream, right?Getting to work on something day in and day out that's fueled by your natural interest and enthusiasm.And for our special guest on this episode of our podcast – Neely Quinn – that dream became a reality back in 2013 when she started TrainingBeta. They're a membership site that provides people with world-class training programs, nutrition consulting, and educational resources for rock climbers.We're really excited to share this conv...
2022-04-1453 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I’m sure you’ve been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing some limit bouldering, only to find that you can hardly get off the ground on your warm-ups. Whether you have a training program written by another coach or by yourself, Matt goes over some alternative plans for limit bouldering sessions, strength sessions (outside of climbing), and volume/endurance sessions. You don’t have to scrap the whole session (unless you really...
2022-03-3058 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients’ and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and herself) improve upon it with drills and objective learning. This is a big one, and I walked away from this conversation sort of blown away by how much I’ve been missing in my climbing training all these years. There’s SO MUCH more I could’ve been doing this whole time to make improvements where hangboarding or other...
2022-03-021h 27The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create a detailed program for you based on your lifestyle and equipment availability. WORK WITH MATT OR ALEX Goal Setting in Climbing In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we approach goal setting for ourselves and for our clients. Goal setting can be o...
2022-02-231h 21The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow My 68-Yr-Old Mother-In-Law Still Climbs 5.12Elyn Lytton is a 68-year-old climber from Colorado who started climbing in her early 50’s and is still regularly crushing 5.12’s (indoors and on toprope). She is also my mother-in-law and I’m constantly impressed by her. She’s a really good example of a person who does things in the name of sustainability, meaning, she LOVES climbing and will do whatever it takes to be able to do it for many more years. In this conversation, we discuss her approach to climbing and what she does to make it work for her body (with the aches and pains that com...
2022-02-091h 04The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMeal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery with Neely Quinn In this episode, I talk all about how to time your meals and snacks to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition. You might think that when you eat food isn’t really that important – or maybe you haven’t given it much thought. But the truth is that it can be almost as important as what you eat when it comes to performance, recovery, and overall well-being. I’ll go over some sample meal/snack time schedules and tell you about the mistakes I see many people making with it. I’...
2022-01-1928 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastRest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking new clients, so if you’d like to work with him, you can sign up here. Matt just started offering 1-hour remote coaching sessions so you can get your training questions answered and have guidance on how to build out a trainin...
2021-12-1551 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastRunning for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about running for climbing fitness. In our practices as a coach (Matt) and a nutritionist (me), we see a lot of people who run in the name of climbing training. But there are some common mistakes we see people making in their training schedules, their nutrition practices, and their reasoning behind their actions. We talk about some better choices people can be making with their running, whether it’s scientifically been shown to he...
2021-11-121h 06The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastCarbs for Climbers: How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kinds, Timing, and Why In this episode, I talk all about carbohydrates and how to use them properly in your diet to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition. Carbs are a tricky topic because we’ve been taught to fear and hate them, even though in reality they’re what fuel strength and power activities. They’re also paramount to keeping your blood sugar and mood stable all day every day, as well as helping you to fall asleep and stay asl...
2021-11-0331 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into 5.13 and what you need to do physically and mentally to do it. We both share our experiences of our first 5.13’s, which were quite different actually, and our processes of projecting things that are hard for us. We talk about how to turn the try-hard switch on and off on hard routes, and how to stay focused and calm enough to not overgrip and get super pumped. We also talk about resting tactics, an...
2021-10-211h 16The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastGrades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking 4 new clients, so if you’d like to work with him, you can sign up here. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s a...
2021-10-0155 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastNeely Quinn on The Nugget Climbing Podcast with Steven DimmittI was interviewed on the Nugget! This is a re-post of an interview with me on the Nugget Climbing Podcast with host Steven Dimmitt. I love being on the other side of an interview occasionally, and Steven is a fantastic interviewer. We had some laughs, talked about some serious stuff, and I feel a little vulnerable about how much I shared personally, honestly. I'm an open book, but when it's recorded and put out to the world, it's a little nerve wracking! I hope you enjoy this interview and maybe get to know me a l...
2021-08-251h 47
The Nugget Climbing PodcastEP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. HousesNeely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinnNuggets:2:30 – The other side of the mic4:11 – Singing and pian...
2021-08-231h 45The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastProtein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why Welcome to the New Nutrition Episodes I’m not sure why I haven’t done this before, but I’ll be publishing regular episodes on nutrition for climbers. Seeing as how I’m a nutrition professional, I should’ve been talking more about this topic all along! But it’s never too late, so here’s the first of many to come. A little about me, in case you didn’t know: After completing my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutrition certific...
2021-08-1229 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your perf...
2021-07-291h 01The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTraining and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She’s been training and coaching individuals and teams for...
2021-07-2159 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAlex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your MindAbout Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we’ve learned along the way. It can be...
2021-02-081h 11The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastNeely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with NutritionAbout Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about how to increase your energy levels using food. What you consume and when you consume it can have profound effects on your energy levels, and we’ll discuss the ins and outs of all of them. Even if you don’t “struggle” with energy levels, it’s quite possible that your energy could be even more on-point than it is now, and that can be low hanging fruit in terms of your climbing p...
2020-08-241h 11The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastChelsea Murn on Women's Specific Training and Nutrition NeedsAbout Chelsea Murn Chelsea Murn is a Certified Health Coach and a climbing coach at LadyBetaCoaching.com who specializes in females’ training and health needs. She’s also a business coach for females in the climbing community, and in this interview we talk about all of that. Chelsea has caught my eye recently with her blogging at LadyBeta, and because she’s one of the only people talking about women’s specific training needs. We talked about women’s specific needs in climbing training and performance as well as our specific diet needs. We talk about what w...
2020-08-1259 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastJuliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in ClimbingI talk with Juliet Hammer about strength training for climbing using weights, compensating for being a short climber, what to focus on with your training during the pandemic, and racism in the climbing community.
2020-07-291h 21The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastNeely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in ClimbersAbout Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about body image and disordered eating behaviors in climbers. We both have experienced negative body image and have worked with client on body image and disordered eating behaviors. We discuss candidly our own experiences with it all and provide tips on how to balance your diet to get all the nutrients you need while maintaining your optimal, healthy body composition. We talk about common behaviors we see in our clients that sabotage their performance and...
2020-07-151h 36The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMatt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Long BreakI talk with Matt Pincus about how to return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustrations about being weak to reassessing goals.
2020-06-1650 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for ClimbersIn this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.
2020-06-0258 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastNeely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and BeyondI had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about how we can eat to truly nourish ourselves during quarantine and beyond.
2020-05-041h 21The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastSteve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Training at HomeIn this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.
2020-04-091h 18The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMatt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19I talk with Matt Pincus about how to approach train at home during COVID-19, how we're training, our recommended equipment, and some workouts you can do.
2020-03-241h 26The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMark Campbell on TRX Core Training for ClimbersMark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.
2020-03-121h 17The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastPete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing TrainingI talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.
2020-02-261h 21The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with NeelyI talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.
2020-02-061h 17The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastZahan Billimoria on Core Training for ClimbingIn this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.
2020-01-221h 19The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMarisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in ClimbersDietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.
2020-01-151h 11The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique DrillsMercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses to improve climbing skills and strength.
2019-12-181h 04The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastCoach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training MethodsBradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.
2019-12-051h 15The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMarina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image IssuesMarina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.
2019-11-271h 08The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastKris Hampton: 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your ClimbingI talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.
2019-11-221h 14The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt PincusTrainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.
2019-10-301h 40The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastRachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a MotherRachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.
2019-10-241h 20The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMatt Pincus On the Priniciples of ProjectingI talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.
2019-10-171h 09The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastThe Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler NelsonI talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.
2019-10-021h 07The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie ManganielloI talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.
2019-09-091h 22The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastJames Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering MoreI talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.
2019-08-231h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow InjuriesIn this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
2019-08-121h 22The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastJosh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the OlympicsI talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.
2019-07-241h 27The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDr. Tyler Nelson's Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendon InjuriesI talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.
2019-06-281h 07The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastSierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online NegativityProfessional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.
2019-06-131h 11The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 PlateauKyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.
2019-05-291h 12The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastJonathan Siegrist's Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15bI talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.
2019-05-151h 14The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastShaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 MonthsOur TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.
2019-04-021h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 MonthsClimbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.
2019-03-261h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastThe Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do BetterIn this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.
2019-03-181h 14The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastLife Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach GoalsIn this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.
2019-02-281h 15The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12aIn this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.
2019-02-051h 01The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow Tom O'Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-TimeIn this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.
2019-01-251h 17The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and TestingIn this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
2019-01-171h 12The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate InjuryIn this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.
2019-01-101h 07The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger InjuriesIn this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
2018-12-131h 43The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDalton Bunker on Training to Climb 14d and Being VeganIn this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and why becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.
2018-10-261h 09The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastLattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor ClimberIn this interview, Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr describe 5 training hacks to use if you don't have much time to train.
2018-10-171h 32The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance ClimbingIn this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.
2018-09-191h 17The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastPro Climber Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fear After an AccidentMina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame a fear of falling after a climbing accident, and her dialed-in diet.
2018-09-121h 20The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastMatt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training ProgramI talk with climbing trainer, Matt Pincus, about how you can't fit everything into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.
2018-08-1554 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastSteve Bechtel on Training Endurance for ClimbingIn this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.
2018-08-091h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.
2018-08-011h 16The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury HealingIn this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.
2018-07-251h 09The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastNathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win CompsIn this interview I talk with 3x Bouldering Nationals Champ, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains for climbing.
2018-06-281h 19The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
2018-06-201h 12The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastEsther Smith: Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
2018-05-3052 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and CoachingIn this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching.
2018-05-021h 08The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and ClimbersDr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast array of qualifications and experience on her website. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her to chime in to give us a little perspective.
2018-04-2555 min2018-04-181h 10The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastHow Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries
2018-04-111h 19The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastKyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training ProgramIn this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.
2018-03-281h 16The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastSasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition
2018-03-211h 07The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastDr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should
2018-03-1556 min
The Power Company Climbing PodcastNeely Quinn | Common Sense NutritionIf there is a polar opposite of "nutritionist", I'm it. I blank out immediately when talking the details of nutrition. Not so with our guest today, Neely Quinn. Neely is a nutritionist, climber, and host of the TrainingBeta podcast. I've known Neely for some time, but had never talked nutrition with her. She spoke at the recent ClimbStrong Coaching Conference, and I appreciated her simple take on how we should all be eating. I know some of you are like me, and this conversation may prove a little simpler to digest. Pun intended.
You can find more about Ne...
2017-05-2258 min
Podcasters Unplugged035: Getting Beyond Your Nerves Of Public Speaking With Neely Quinn035: Getting Beyond Your Nerves Of Public Speaking With Neely Quinn In this week's episode of the Podcasters Unplugged show we chat with Neely Quinn from the Training Beta Podcast. She talks about how she started a podcast around a passion she already had "Climbing". We discuss the initial process of how she started the show, and now what she is doing to grow the show currently. Links Mentioned In This Episode: Libsyn Hosting – An excellent choice to host your podcast. — Use our promo code "VALUE" at checkout for 2 FREE months of hosting. Adob...
2016-12-2625 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 004 :: Shoulder Care for ClimbersShoulder Care for ClimbersThis week, in our fourth mini episode of Ask Kris,wedecided to talk about shoulders - one of my favorite topics.Alot of climbers have shoulder issues, and we discuss how toavoidinjuries and how to prevent them. Most common shoulder issues for climbersWhen to see a doctorWhat exercises you should do for injury preventionWhat exercises you should avoid when you have an injuryMore about Neely's experience with shoulder surgeryTrain Your Shoulders with Kris's ProgramsAll of the programs that Kris wrote fortrainingbeta.comhave a focus on shoulder stability, stre...
2016-05-0221 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris 002 :: The 3 Best Lifts for ClimbersNew Ask Kris Mini Episodes!
We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing the regular podcast episodes every week, too!
We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these mini episodes. This week, in our second episode, we decided to talk about the three best lifts for rock climbers.
Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked wi...
2016-04-0522 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastAsk Kris :: Finger Strength Training Mini EpisodeNew Mini Episodes!
We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these episodes. This week, we decided to start with finger training, since it's such a popular topic.
Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular Joes like you and me. H...
2016-03-2921 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for ClimbersAbout Neely Quinn
Neely is your host for the podcast every week, but she's also a practicing nutrition therapist, and has been since about 2007. She's helped hundreds of people lose weight and get closer to optimal health. She takes an individualized approach to nutrition, and in this podcast episode she tackles weight loss for climbers and how to approach it properly (if you need to approach it at all).
Weight Loss for Climbers
Calories
Carbs
Food Sensitivities
When to see a doctor
Overtraining
Want to work with Neely one-on-one?
Her nutrition coaching page...
2016-03-0732 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 043 :: Neely Explains the Ketogenic DietI've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and I expect that a lot of people will want to try it for themselves.
I researched the diet quite a bit a few years back and then experimented with it on my own. I've helped nutrition clients onboard to a ketogenic diet, and I've talked with a lot of people about the difficulties and successes they've had with it.
It's a really interesting topic, partly because everyone is...
2016-02-1024 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training EfficientlyTrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes Date: November 4th, 2015
(Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.)
About Will Anglin
Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and...
2015-11-041h 13The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 028 :: Neely Quinn on Nutrition for Climbers
About Neely Quinn
I (Neely Quinn) am a Nutrition Therapist and a 5.13 rock climber, owner of TrainingBeta, and someone who's obsessed over food, health, and climbing performance since 1999. I've helped thousands of people find their optimal diet, lose weight, and be the best athlete they can be. My nutrition work lives at www.neelyquinn.com.
As the host of the TrainingBeta podcast, I'm generally not the one in the spotlight in these interviews, but in this episode, I put my hide on the line and told you my opinions and advice about nutrition fo...
2015-07-2451 minThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTraining Q&A Session #2This is a recording of our second live Q&A call dedicated to training for climbing. Answering the questions are:
Kris Peters - Climbing Trainer
Neely Quinn - Nutritionist and 5.13 climber
Seth Lytton - Training geek and 5.14 climber
Hope you can join us for the next one! The sound quality isn't super great on this because it's an actual phone call, but we're working on it!
2015-04-2732 min