Shows
Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasWyatt's Favorite Grant Stone BootsIn this exclusive interview, Wyatt Gilmore, CEO and founder of Grant Stone, shares his honest opinions on various boots and shoes. He's joined by industry titans Nick Horween of Horween Leather and Phil Kalas from Ashland Leather for a deep dive into footwear preferences, from his absolute favorites to those that just don't make the cut.https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/2025-07-091h 37Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasNEW Viberg NYC Store Opening SoonGet the exclusive scoop! In this interview, we're joined by Brett Viberg and Nick Horween. Brett shares exciting details about the upcoming Viberg NYC store, a major milestone for the brand.You'll hear about the new location at 262 Mott St., New York City, and the anticipated grand opening in July 2025. Find out what this new space means for the brand and what you can expect when you visit.https://viberg.com/Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/2025-07-021h 05Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasQ&A Oil-Tanned CXL & Curry Shell CordovanNick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your urgent leather questions!Ashland Leather Everyday Belt in Black Illini Latigo: https://ashlandleather.com/products/everyday-belt-blackGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show2025-03-211h 00Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasSkip Horween Explains Latigo, Illini Latigo, California TanneriesSkip Horween describes Horween's Latigo and Illini Latigo variants. Illini Latigo's originates as Horween's version of California Latigo and is best used in belts, straps, and harnesses. Ashland Leather Everyday Belt in Black Illini Latigo: https://ashlandleather.com/products/everyday-belt-blackGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www.bu...2025-03-1433 min
Nicks Boots Podcast: From Start to FinishNicks Boots X Horween: The Making of New SpokaneJoin us for this episode of the Nicks Boots Podcast as Shuyler sits down with Nick and John from Horween Leather Co. We’re diving deep into Horween’s rich history, exploring how they’ve perfected the art of leather tanning for over a century. From the development of iconic leathers to the craftsmanship behind specialty tannages, we cover it all—including an in-depth look at New Spokane, a unique tannage developed in collaboration with Nicks Boots. Tune in for an insightful conversation on heritage, innovation, and what makes truly exceptional leather.Thank you for tuning in! Please l...2025-02-1135 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasNick (Stridewise) & Nick (Horween) Discuss Environmental ImpactNick English (Stridewise) and Nick Horween (Horween Leather) discuss regulations and environmental impact of tanneries. Leather Working Group (LWG) audits and rates tanneries for responsible production and sourcing.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the s...2025-02-0340 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasWine Tasting for Leather - Live at Stitchdown Boot Camp 2024Our first ever in-person podcast at Stitchdown's Boot Camp 2024 in Brooklyn, NYC. Nick Horween (Horween Leather) and Phil Kalas (Ashland Leather) explain everything you need to know about leather in under 1 hour.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com2025-01-1353 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasLeather. And Why it's Still Good.Nick investigates the question of "why does leather stay relevant in some places and go away in others?". Also discussed: Leather care and Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome & Boot Camp NYC 2024.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport t...2024-11-1141 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP56: Q&A NEW Horween Leather Aspen, Waterproof CXL, Farm BootsNick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions from YouTube. Leave your questions for us in the comments.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport t...2024-10-1550 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP55: Skip Horween Leather Industry & Trade ShowsAll Horween takeover. Nick and Skip Horween discuss the leather industry and trade shows.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show2024-10-0952 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP54: Why is shell cordovan so expensive!?Nick Horween explains why shell cordovan (and leather in general) is expensive. Cost breakdown includes hides, material, labor, regulations and more.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support2024-09-3057 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP53: Horween SHUTDOWN & Maintaining a 100+ Year-Old Leather TanneryEvery year Horween performs scheduled maintenance on many pieces of equipment that are over 100 years old.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show2024-09-1644 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP52: Nick's Handmade Boots & Horween Leather Co. Discuss Shell CordovanShuyler Mowe (Nick’s Handmade Boots) and John Culliton (Horween Leather Sales) talk with Nick about boots, leather, challenges and more.https://nicksboots.com/https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www...2024-08-301h 29Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP51: ICON 4x4 Jonathan WardJonathan Ward (ICON 4x4) is an industrial designer and bespoke crafter of vehicles, clothing and leather goods. Jonathan shares his approach and philosophy when making things, and teaches us the importance of being passionate about what you do.ICON 4x4https://www.icon4x4.com/TLC 4x4https://www.tlc4x4.com/J Ward Collectionhttps://www.instagram.com/jwardcollection/Campfire Coatshttps://campfirecoats.com/https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made...2024-08-221h 50Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP50: Horween Leather Tanner Explains Leather FinishingHorween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains drying methods and leather finishing.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show2024-08-131h 29Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP49: Boot-Wearing Guide to Horween LeatherStitchdown's writer, Zaid Hintzman, asks the best questions for boot fans interested in Horween leather. Nick and Phil explain the features and characteristics in many Horween leathers including shell cordovan, Horsebutt veg, CXL, Predator and more.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions t...2024-08-061h 43Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP48: Leather Tanning 101Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains leather tanning and retanning. Leave your tanning and finishing questions in the YouTube comments.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport t...2024-07-151h 12Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP47: Dean Delray, Leather Jackets, Stand-Up ComedyDean Delray is a stand-up comedian, podcaster, design lover and jacket collector.https://www.deandelray.com/https://www.instagram.com/deandelray/?hl=enhttps://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://w...2024-07-081h 26Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP46: Q&A Chromepak vs. CXL, Horween Pinnacle, Coffee Tanning, Why Pit Tan?Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing leather questions.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/supportSupport the show2024-07-0153 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP45: Shell Cordovan, Dublin, Essex, Pit Tanning, Tree BarksNick and Phil explore the similarities and differences of Shell Cordovan and Horween’s Essex leather. Both leathers are tanned using the same blend of tree barks. Horween’s Essex leather can also be finished into other products including Horween’s Dublin and Derby.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/htt...2024-06-241h 06Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP44: NBA Basketball Leather - Leather vs. PlasticNick explains why leather is the choice material for professional NBA basketball and NFL football players. Phil and Nick discuss material options and compare leather and plastic choices.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the s...2024-06-1246 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP43: 1940s Timber Tanned Calf LeatherFirst tanned in 1940, Timber Tanned Calf is a legacy leather that is as storied as it is beautiful. The formula was lost. Despite the tannery’s best attempts they have not been able to reproduce it.https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch it on YouTube https://youtu.be/OM7_YR03sCoGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www...2024-05-2858 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP42: Horween Cypress, Latigo vs. CXL, Grey Colors, Small vs. Established BrandsStarting with the cowboy origins of Latigo leathers, Nick delves into the details of Cypress, one of Horween’s latest leather offerings. We explore the complexities involved in achieving specific colors like grey and white. Finally, we engage in a conversation about the unique competitive edges that both small and large brands possess.0:00 Topics0:30 Horween Cypress Leather 12:06 Grey Color & “Problem” Colors25:59 Small Brands vs. Established1:06:14 Favoriteshttps://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is...2024-05-031h 13Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP41: ⚡Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome⚡, Boot Camp, Leather PerspectiveBen Robinson from Stitchdown joins Nick Horween and Phil Kalas to chat Thunderdome, Boot Camp, and Leather. Congratulations to all of the winners of the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome. Boot Camp is October 12-13 in NYC. 0:00 What’s a podcast?0:49 Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome45:25 Boot Camp57:35 Leather Perspectivehttps://www.stitchdownbootcamp.com/https://www.stitchdown.com/https://www.ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashl...2024-04-191h 21Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP40: CXL is Overrated?💰 Is Alden Overpriced? WWII Boots, Dale’s LeatherworksAsking the hard questions up top: Is Horween Chromexcel (CXL) leather overrated? Is Alden overpriced? Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks shares his opinions with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas.0:00 American Original1:08 Is CXL Overrated?19:12 Is Alden Overpriced?30:03 WWII Boots38:47 Stuck in a boot world from 10+ years ago52:38 Nick Q&A Lightning Round1:00:38 Favoriteshttps://www.youtube.com/@DalesLeatherworkshttps://dalesleatherworks.com/https://ashlandleather.com/https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastGet a wallet that is made for patina and is gu...2024-04-121h 09Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP39: Sam Parker, Context Clothing, Alden, Roy Boot, Wisconsin Footwear, Supper ClubsSam Parker is the co-founder of Context Clothing. He is one of the individuals behind the creation of the famous Roy Boot by Alden x Context. Context had a 15 year run and closed its doors in 2020. Sam now runs restaurants and bars in Madison Wisconsin: Turn Key Supper Club, Settle Down Tavern, and Ounce By Ounce.https://www.turnkeymadison.com/https://www.settledownmadison.com/https://www.ozbyozmadison.com/0:00 Context Clothing11:34 Raw Denim & Forums14:17 Alden17:13 Roy Boot24:01 Made In Wisconsin Footwear28:57 Crepe Sole32:53 Making Boots Look Great39:30...2024-04-051h 23Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEp38: Q&A Brain Tanning(!) Leather, Horween Predator, Horsebutt, RancourtNick and Phil take on your hardest hitting leather questions including leather terms, brain tanning, leather delays, Horween’s Predator leather, horsebutt, sneakers and more.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the showhttps://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/sup...2024-03-291h 16Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP37: Stridewise, Best Shell Cordovan, Veg vs. Chrome tan, Boot CollectingNick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. A wide range of leather and boot topics are covered including who makes the best shell cordovan, Horween Chromexcel leather, current trends, European style, loafers, veg tanning vs. chrome tanning, and many more.0:00 Best Shell Cordovan1:40 First Shell Cordovan Pair and Care4:30 Horween Chromexcel Leather9:47 Current Trends in the Boot Scene18:59 European Style22:40 Loafers26:56 Veg Tan vs. Chrome Tan35:55 Olive Tanned40:42 Bison42:41 Chamois and Kudu and Wild...2024-03-221h 58Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP: 36 WTF is Aniline? Aniline Leather & Leather Finishing🖌️Are you considering aniline leather? Or perhaps a completely painted leather? Join Nick and Phil as they delve into various leather finishes, highlighting aniline leather. Leather can range from unfinished to fully finished, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages.0:00 What is Aniline Leather8:29 Aniline etymology and marketing14:06 Is aniline leather tough?16:27 Leather finishing spectrum: Naked to Full27:37 Finish application methods38:26 Benefits of full finish41:08 Finish break and creasing46:43 Benefits of Aniline Finish51:11 Fully finished products we love58:15 Calf and dress shoes1:01:50 Naked leather products...2024-03-151h 26Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP35: Suede, Nubuck, Rough Out Waxed Flesh and Genuine Leather: Everything You Want to KnowNick and Phil discuss the differences and similarities in “genuine leathers” including suede, split suede, nubuck, rough out, and waxed flesh. How should you care for your suede? Is nubuck more durable than suede? Is a split suede of poor quality? All of the answers are here.0:00 Genuine Leathers0:21 What is suede?9:10 What is rough out and waxed flesh leather?10:27 Marine Field Shoe CXL15:19 Nubuck vs. Suede vs. Rough Out19:53 Natural Variance and Upgrading Leather21:17 What is nubuck leather?30:07 Horween Waxed Flesh CXL2024-03-071h 21Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP34: LIVE Q&A Shinki Shell Cordovan, Seidel Double Shot, Calf, Predator, HorsebuttNick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions. 0:00 Favorite Episodes4:03 Arabica Lux Leather6:00 Saphir Mirror Gloss9:11 Tanner’s Blend on Shell Cordovan10:27 Favorite and Least Favorite Leathers14:28 Horween’s Crunch Leather16:33 VIberg Double Butt Shell Cordovan Boot22:47 Does Horween Tan Calf?27:11 What Scent Does the Tannery Have?29:02 Horween Shell Cordovan vs. Other Tanneries31:37 English Tan Essex, Dublin, Derby Differences34:54 Horween’s Predator Leather37:02 Difficult Leathers to Work With39:31 Wooly Chromexcel40:27 Cypress Colors43:55 Best Leather for Hard Wearing Warehouse Work47:54 What’s the dif...2024-01-221h 05Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP33: Ultimate Leather Care Guide. Horween Shell Cordovan Polishing SecretsGoing deep on leather care. 0:00 1990’s Miami Painting1:55 The Ultimate Leather Care Guide4:40 Nick Horween’s Leather Care Routine7:58 Leather is Designed to Last12:31 Shoe Trees13:44 Phil Kalas’ Leather Care Routine15:48 Air Dry After Washing Leather17:50 Leather Conditioner and Saddle Soap20:59 Use Less Polish23:35 Hard Wax vs. Soft Wax24:35 Leather Polish, Venetian Shoe Cream, Saphir35:49 How Does Horween Polish Shell Cordovan? (Glazing)38:18 Veg Tanned Leather39:59 Do You Condition Your Outsole?41:28...2024-01-151h 42Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP32: Alden Indy Boot, What is Quality, Meat Industry, Rose Anvil Weston Kay Pt.2Part two of two with Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Check out the Rose Anvil YouTube channel to see boots cut in half.0:00 Alden Indy Boot11:30 Making Mistakes16:15 Responsibility of Being Critical of Brands19:37 Quality Testing Methods22:03 Does Leather Thickness Matter?31:17 Hunting32:55 What happens to leather if people stop eating meat39:47 Finding Nuance42:43 Peaks and Valleys of Life47:04 FavoritesPost-show Note: Alden has never had a bankruptcy. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you co...2023-11-131h 03Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP31: Rose Anvil Cut in Half. Form vs. Function. Shell Cordovan Engineer Boots. Alden Controversy. Part 1 of 2.Part one of two. Cutting apart Weston Kay from Rose Anvil. Weston’s YouTube channel has cut countless boots in half for our sadistic pleasure. He has accumulated a vast amount of footwear and construction knowledge and has become influential with a one million follower base on YouTube. Recently, Rose Anvil has sparked some controversy with a harsh and pointed take on a beloved brand, Alden.0:00 Recording for YouTube2:26 Boot design. Has it all been done?7:53 Do you still like boots?10:24 Form vs. Function12:41 Male Fashion Advice21:25 Being Camera Shy22:44 How bi...2023-11-0246 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP30 New Leathers at Horween, Stitchdown Boot CampSad to have missed the first ever Boot Camp. Let us know how it was? Today we are making up for it by asking Nick to review some of the newly developed leathers at Horween.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comS...2023-10-1059 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP29: Thunderdome, Bo Jackson, What Makes Leather Smell?, Hot Stuffing ExplainedAnswering the important questions. Nick Horween explains why hot stuffing imparts a great leather scent. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show2023-10-0250 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP28: Rare Shell CordovanNick Horween explains the rarity of shell cordovan, rare shell colors, and supply challenges.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show2023-09-2555 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP27: FEW Spirits, Craft Spirit Appreciation 101, Barrel Aging, BourbonMeet Paul Hletko, the mastermind behind FEW Spirits, a craft distillery in Chicago that creates award-winning spirits with a twist. Paul shares his insights on how to savor the flavors of craft spirits, what makes a good fermentation base, how barrel aging works, and what distinguishes bourbon, scotch, and single malt. He also talks about the latest trends in non-alcoholic drinks and how they compare to their boozy counterparts.0:00 Collaborations3:11 Craft Spirit Appreciation 10124:42 Getting into Distilling32:53 How Spirits are Made32:23 Fermentation Source: Comparing Corn vs. Wheat2023-06-121h 35Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP26: Nomad Goods Brian Hahn: Creating Apple Tech Accessories to Work from AnywhereBrian Hahn is the co-founder of Nomad Goods. They make innovative tech accessories for the nomadic lifestyle.0:00 Work from anywhere4:16 At Best Buy and Boutiques7:45 Sourcing Horween Leather and Materials13:01 Manufacturing with Natural Leather17:19 The Best Material21:10 Designing for Different Markets23:12 Selling on Amazon26:13 Leather Finish and Variation30:16 Sustainability36:26 Apple Watch41:31 Headphones and Audiophile43:50 Do Nothing51:05 Design Philosophy, Designing Details55:55 Quality Control1:01:51 Made in China2023-06-051h 40Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP25: Comparing Shell Cordovan, Horsehide, Cow, Steer, Deer, BisonWhat do you get when you cross a cow, a horse, a bison, and a deer? No, it’s not a joke. It’s a leather tannery lesson from Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Nick and Phil have a combined 30+ years of leather tannery experience. They explain how shell cordovan, cow, steer, horse, bison, and deer skin vary in their features and functions. Which one is the most suitable for a formal shoe? A rugged boot?0:00 Always Workin’1:01 Leather Hide Types2:33 Coarse vs. Fine Grain Character3:53 Performance Characteristic5:34 Best Leathe...2023-05-2252 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP24: The History of Buckleguy: How Hardware is Made, Sourcing Hardware and LeatherThe Inside Scoop on Buckles, Hardware, and LeatherIn this episode, we sit down with Hugh Harriss, the 4th generation proprietor of Buckleguy. Hugh shares his insights on the history of leather, buckles, and hardware, the story of how Buckleguy got started, and the challenges of sourcing hardware and leather. He also discusses upcoming Buckleguy products, and offers advice on choosing the right hardware for your projects.This is a must-listen for anyone who is interested in leathercraft, DIY, or simply wants to learn more about the world of buckles and hardware.https...2023-05-151h 13Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP23: Portland Leather Goods Curtis MatskoCurtis is the CEO, founder, and the energy for Portland Leather Goods and Patina.https://www.portlandleathergoods.com/https://patina.com/0:00 Coming to America2:22 Starting Portland Leather7:25 Leather12:16 Forecasting16:19 Hide Market, Material Delays21:24 Leather for Women35:00 Best Leather?43:23 Mystery Box45:36 Scale54:08 Growing in a Pandemic56:16 Sustainability - Recraftable Boot? 1:00:36 Thursday Boot1:07:41 Future Products1:11:10 Made in USA1:13:45 Tannery Leather Working Group RelevanceNeed a w...2023-05-081h 19Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP22: AI Asks About Leather, Patina Thunderdome Recap, Bog BodiesBack in the saddle again. We’re back with another podcast for the inquisitive minds. Join us, Nick Horween and Phil Kalas, as we delve into the intriguing worlds of patina and preservation, from the leather boots that develop a rich character in the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome contest, to the ancient human remains that are frozen in time in peat bogs.0:00 A Beautiful Voice0:24 Real Estate Market2:00 Chat GPT Asks Nick8:18 Patina Thunderdome Recap26:15 Bog BodiesNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is...2023-05-0140 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP21: Maverick Leather, Horween Seconds, USA Tanneries, New Car Smell, Salz TanneryMatt Foster started Maverick Leather 40 years ago. He has a lifetime of leather information. From their new home in Bend, Oregon Maverick sells Horween seconds and leather from many tanneries.0:00 Eye Surgery1:16 Horween Seconds, Reselling Leather9:58 USA Leather Tanneries16:58 What leathers don’t exist anymore24:26 Environmental Regulations38:18 Maverick’s Customer Base32:51 Tandy Leather34:54 Leaving California for Oregon41:51 Family Business45:16 Horween Dublin Wax Finish47:49 Favorite Leather50:38 Saddle and Harness Makers53:59 Leon Mexico2023-03-201h 26Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP20: Oak Street Bootmakers, Calf Shortage, Made in USA, Hand Lasting, Leather Board, Ralph LaurenGeorge Vlagos started Oak Street Bootmakers in 2010. The brand makes boots and shoes in the USA and has a wide offering of styles, leathers, and colors. George talks about their mission to make shoes in the USA, explains hand lasting, and tells us how Ralph Lauren is an inspiration.0:00 Calfskin Shortage7:45 Why Made in USA?18:31 Hand Lasted Boots31:07 Boat Shoes and Handsewn Shoes41:15 Best-Sellers, Style vs. Comfort48:50 Leather Board58:05 What Makes Oak Street Special1:03:03 Sizing and Fit1:15:29 Ralph Lauren1:18:18...2023-03-131h 29Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP19: Werner Erkelens, Bass Player for Monuments, Aviations, International Touring MusicianWerner is the bassist for Monuments and Aviations. He shares his passion for music and unveils some truths about the touring life of a musician.0:00 Can you play bleed?1:13 Posh touring life in France4:28 Is there money in music?9:54 Why bass?17:04 Writing Process25:58 International Touring33:00 What do your parents think?35:12 What do you want to be better at?39:04 Favorite Bassist44:33 FavoritesSupport Werner on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/WernerErkelens/posts2023-03-0655 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasEP18: Shell Cordovan Scratches and Repair, NEW Leather, Teacore, Wooly CXLNick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing questions. Have a question? Email fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com0:00 Chat GPT2:14 Cordovan & Dublin Scratching and Repair5:21 New Cypress Leather10:50 Leather We Don’t Like15:00 Horween’s Austin Leather13:13 Most Common Belt Size18:44 Steerhide vs. Horsehide24:37 Size of Viberg and Ashland and Horween31:44 Drum Dye and Aniline Dye34:45 Teacore Leather38...2023-02-271h 07Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE17: Black Bear Brand, Kevin Costner Jacket, Vintage Cars, Motorcycles, Travel, Boro, WescoJosh Sirlin lives in chaos and it is the chaos that has created the products for Black Bear Brand. He tells the story of how he has awoken the bear and his adventure chasing smiles.https://blackbearbrand.com/https://www.instagram.com/blackbearbrand/0:00 Next to the tannery everyday4:35 Kevin Costner Jacket on Yellowstone12:43 Black Bear Origin18:58 A Weekend in Whistler28:39 Vintage cars and motorcycles33:30 Design Process and Inspiration45:31 Chasing the Smile48:17 First Black Bear Brand Product2023-02-201h 29Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE16: Dashing Chicago, Alden, Edward Green, Leather Care, Proper FitSean Moran from Dashing Chicago. Sean used to work for Haberdash and Leffot in Chicago. He has carried his relationships forward with Alden and Edward Green and sells their footwear, and other brands, in his downtown Chicago store.https://dashingchicago.com/https://www.instagram.com/dashingchicago0:00 Sharp Dressed Man2:42 Sean Dashing Chicago5:21 In-Person Shopping7:42 Midwest Style14:35 Leather Color Challenges21:01 Rare Shell Cordovan Colors25:08 Price Bias29:05 Alden and Edward Green Special Makeups35:13 Edward Green Style40:00 Proper Shoe...2023-02-131h 44Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE15: We need to talk about Chromexcel, Boots, Mechanical Seals, Historical Documents, WWIINick Horween resurrects some 100+ year old documents uncovering some of Chromexcel’s history. We discuss the origins of Chromexcel, some of the original uses, and strengths/weaknesses of this special tannage.0:00 We’re Back1:13 Chromexcel Leather2:50 Original Uses Boots and Seals9:04 What is Chromexcel19:07 CXL on Boots and Shoes and Belts21:05 CXL Stretch and Drying Methods31:36 CXL Variations and Colors36:08 Historical Documents1:03:21 FavoritesNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life...2023-02-061h 08Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE14: Grant Stone Part 2 Wyatt & Josh’s Shoe Journey, Women’s Footwear, New Styles/Colors, Quality SpecsPart two of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone.https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show2022-12-261h 10Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE13: Grant Stone, Leather Break, Alden, Heel Slip, LastsPart one of our conversation with Wyatt and Josh from Grant Stone. Part two goes up on December 26th 2022.https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show2022-12-191h 03Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE12: The Stitchdown Shoecast - Ben and TichoThe crossover episode you've been waiting for. SHOECAST with Ben and Ticho from Stitchdown Shoecast.https://www.stitchdown.com/https://www.stitchdown.com/stitchdown-shoecast/all-podcast-episodes/Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show2022-12-121h 39
The Stitchdown ShoecastNick Horween and Phil Kalas Forcibly Take Over the Shoecast, And Turn the Whole Thing Right Around on UsWe've had both Nick Horween (the one from Horween Leather) and Phil Kalas (formerly of Horween, now making some of the best wallets, belts, and more over at Ashland Leather) on the Shoecast before. WELL APPARENTLY THAT WASN'T ENOUGH FOR THEM.Clearly over-emboldened by recently starting their own show, the Full Grain Podcast, Phil and Nick swung into a recent Shoecast recording session, said "we're the hosts now," and proceeded to interview Ben and Ticho. Which actually led to some very fun conversations about how we got started with this whole caring way too much...2022-12-121h 19Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE11: Translucent Leather, Shrunken Horsebutt, JR Soles, Russian Reindeer BoxboardAnswering all of your important questions. A livestream replay with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show2022-12-051h 16Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE10: 3sixteen - Raw Denim, Self Edge, 20th Anniversary CollabsAndrew Chen and Johan Lam from 3sixteen tell us about their 20 year history. Starting with t-shirts and inspired by vintage clothing, they are now known for raw denim jeans.https://www.3sixteen.com/https://www.instagram.com/andrew3sixteenhttps://www.instagram.com/johan3sixteenNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastW...2022-11-2852 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE9: Jason Gregory MAKR Studio, Leather Goods, Made in USA, MinimalismJason Gregory simply loves making stuff. From leather goods, canvas bags, furniture and even architecture -- Jason's entire being is devoted to creation.https://makr.com/https://www.instagram.com/makr_Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com2022-11-211h 25Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE8: Patina, Veg Tan, Olive Tan, Chrome Tan, Wax Flesh, Patina ThunderdomeWhat is patina? Nick Horween explains what patina is, how to prevent it, and what we love about it. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.comSupport the show2022-11-1456 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE7: Anthony Spina SYSTEM, Old Style, White Claw, Inclusive Drinking, Dive Bars, Tannery RowToday's guest is the founder of SYSTEM Seltzer, Anthony Spina. Anthony describes drinking habits in the US, Chicago dive bars, the export of US culture, social media, being an informed consumer, PR spin and more.1:55 US Drinking Habits 5:56 First Cell phones11:05 Inclusive Drinking15:33 Chicago dive bars23:37 Export of US Culture26:15 social media, being an informed consumer, PR spin37:31 Building Community, Schlitz, Old Style, White Claw, Chicago Pizza Summit2022-11-0759 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE6: Skip Horween Tannery Work, Seasonality of Hides, Made in Maine, Boat Shoe IndicatorSkip Horween is the 4th generation owner of Horween Leather Company in Chicago. 0:00 What it is like working at a tannery?5:50 Material Price increases8:26 Leather Lead Times12:15 Seasonality of Hides15:47 Supply Chain and Inflation Cycle24:09 Shoemaking in Maine30:34 The Boat Shoe Indicator36:36 Football Cycle39:44 Hides are Different Today45:11 I can't believe it's not leather49:13 Supply Chain Overview, inflation/deflationNeed a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.2022-10-3158 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE5: Leather Prices Increasing, Supply Chain, Just In Time Inventory, James Webb Space TelescopeSpace facts! Along with just about everything, we are experiencing leather price increases. Why are they going up? Chatting about supply chain issues, globalization, just in time inventory management, and the James Webb Space Telescope.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcastWatch on YouTubeFollow on Instagramemail questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com2022-10-2444 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE4: Sustainability, Environmental Stewardship, "Vegan Leather", Patagonia, WaterproofSustainability is a loaded term. Everything has an impact. Nick Horween breakdown the environmental auditing process that many tanneries receive. "Vegan leather" are two words that probably should be used together. Patagonia is making an effort to move away from durable water repellant. Fluorinated DWR contains PFCs which are a suspected carcinogen. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.Watch on Yo...2022-10-1742 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE3: Brett Viberg of Viberg Boot - New Brand Direction, Service Boot, Chromexcel Lottery, Customer ServiceA conversation with Brett Viberg from Viberg boot. We ask Brett about what changes are being made to the brand, how the service boot ushered in a new era, what each generation has brought to the business, the Chromexcel Lottery, customer service, and other topics.Check out Viberg Boot here. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.Watch on Y...2022-10-1056 minFull Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE2: Football Leather Hat(?), What is Full Grain Leather, JR Rendenbach ClosingAs you expect, everything else is falling apart.Today's episode goes hard on leather marketing terms like, full grain, top grain, genuine leather, aniline leather, and more.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered.Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather.Support the show2022-09-301h 00Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil KalasE1: Chicago Hot Dogs, Podcasts, Being Old, HBO ShowsPlease allow myself to introduce...myself. Full Grain Podcast is Nick Horween and Phil Kalas chatting about quality goods and the people who make them.First episode! Today we chat about how raw onions are terrible on Chicago Hot Dogs. They aren't good, right? Today's intro episode is about podcasts that we like, what type of content to look forward to at Full Grain and what content we don't want to do (politics), how twerking makes Phil feel old, and our favorite recent HBO shows.Need a wallet that is made for patina and is...2022-09-2523 min
THE GRAIL with Dean Delray#55 : Nick Horween / VP - Owner of Horween Leather Company Since 1905 the best leather in the world has come out of Chicago handmade at the Horween Leather Company. Most of my Boots,Belts, Jackets and Wallets are made of Horween Leather. These guys supply leather for some of the greatest handmade products in the world including Schott Leather Jackets, Wesco Boots, Vibram and so much more. Since the 1940's Horween has also supplied the leather to Wilson to make all the footballs for the NFL. This company has been Family owned for 5 generations and they still do everything the same way since they did the da...2021-12-111h 00The Stitchdown ShoecastNick Horween on if Rare Shell Cordovan is Actually Rare, the CXL Lottery, and How to Tan Leather ResponsiblyNick Horween is a fifth-generation tanner at the eponymous Horween Leather Co., the Chicago powerhouse that creates Chromexcel, shell cordovan, and an endless array of some of the best boot leathers in the world. So he, uh, knows a lot about leather. Nick stopped by the Shoecast to talk about Horween's fascinating history, how the tannery approaches being environmentally conscious in an industry that hasn't always been historically, what leather development looks like, the CXL lottery, whether Alden rare shell cordovan is ACTUALLY rare, and of course, the actual correct pronunciation of "chamois". And oh so much mo...2021-07-161h 02
Dean Delray's LET THERE BE TALK#496:Nick Horween / VP - Owner of Horween Leather CompanyThis will be a Handmade edition of LET THERE BE TALK. Since 1905 the best leather in the world has come out of Chicago handmade at the Horween Leather Company. Most of my Boots,Belts, Jackets and Wallets are made of Horween Leather. These guys supply leather for some of the greatest handmade products in the world including Schott Leather Jackets, Wesco Boots, Vibram and so much more. Since the 1940's Horween has also supplied the leather to Wilson to make all the footballs for the NFL. This company has b...2019-09-301h 07